#Bangkok 2nd night Khaosan Road etc Thailand PT9

Now back to Khaosan Road. I spent my last night in and around there. It was a great spectacle but seemed harmless enough to me. It is a melting pot of people - brash and loud but not sleazy from what passed me by. People watching is fascinating. Should I buy some laughing gas or watch Liverpool and Arsenal playing live on any number of multiscreens. Every bar seems to offer “ bucket” deals - assume lots of cheap alcohol but again no drunkenness on view - but maybe I am too early! In among all the bars and food outlets are massage parlours with their staff trying to attract your business. Outside many of them are rows of lounge chairs - yes on the street pretty much. On them westerners having their feet massaged by teams of Thai young men and women. I think about a foot massage too. I recall a conversation I previously had with a young French couple. He was a paramedic. He loved Thailand and knew the country well. I happened to ask him about the tipping custom. He said there isn’t really a tipping culture but he did tip for a Thai massage if it was a good one. He said it naturally - like there was nothing improper or sleazy in a Thai Massage and it made me realise I was being too uptight and reserved. I decide to go for it. When I looked at the board the foot massage and Thai massage were the same price. Cheap enough 150 BHT for half an hour. I go for a Thai massage - not knowing what to expect. The woman on the desk says one hour would be better sir - more relaxing and it is only 250 - about £7. I decide to stick with a half hour because I was a bit unsure of what I was signing up for. Anyway I am taking charge of by a pleasant Thai woman. She says follow me and we ascend stairs by two levels. Everything is clean and immaculate. I have already removed my shoes so socks off and she washes and pats dry my feet with care. Next to a cubical - she says shirt off please gives me a a cotton shirt to put on - all crisp and ironed. But it is far too small. I open the curtain and she is right there smiling. I say too small. She giggles I laugh and she comes back with a bigger one! Next follow her up another floor - smart again - relaxing lighting. Ver UT quiet. She tells me to lie on my front on the mat - all very comfortable and nice. She starts to work systematically on my upper body. This is alright. This is good. She uses strong little hands, her elbows and her knees. It is vigorous but not painful as such - but you really feel it. This is ok. She asks from time to time if I am ok and she is diligent - works hard. Anyway it is pretty clear I should have an hour. She is pleased. She asks me to remove my shorts and leaves me to put on another pair that she gives me. Eventually it turns out to be a full body massage. Superb. She says strong legs - ha! It finishes - she serves green tea and we chat for 5 minutes about our lives. She guesses correctly my last night in Bangkok. Anyway it was entirely proper and decent and well done and beneficial. I would thoroughly recommend a Thai massage. It was great.

Back out on the street - just about every bar has a live band banging it out. I sit down outside. Another Singha beer and seafood fried rice for peanuts. People watching is brilliant. The tattoos! What the street sellers can carry on a bike - wok - gas bottle and all the paraphernalia. Brilliant.

So my summary - the guide books are right. Put Khaosan Road on your list and make sure you have a Thai massage!