I am just back from a short camping/walking visit to South Wales - 4 nights. It is an area I know pretty well and it always delivers.
Of course it is good to get off the IOW now and again - especially after the Covid lockdown. South Wales is easy to get to from the Island - ie Portsmouth - Winchester - Newbury and down the M4 to cross the Severn Bridge into Wales. 2 or 3 hours.
When we set off the weather forecast was not great - but weather was forecast changeable! While summer sun was desired it was not crucial ha!
There is something positive about going over the huge Severn Bridge. It makes you feel you are entering a new world. You are of course in many ways - just look at the unintelligible road signs. Welsh is like Greek or say Russian - impossible to guess what the words mean. So many double l's and d's ha!
Our destination was Brecon - in the Brecon Beacons for the first night. We ambled up the lovely Wye valley for a break at spectacular Tinturn Abbey and later a walk around the attractive and well preserved little town of Monmouth. Then it was across to Brecon the main town in the Brecon Beacons.
The Brecon Beacons sit in the Brecon Beacon National Park. It is an AONB.
From Wiki :
The Brecon Beacons (Welsh: Bannau Brycheiniog, IPA: [ˈbanai̯ brəˈχəi̯njɔɡ]) are a mountain range in South Wales In a narrow sense, the name refers to the range of Old Red Sandstone peaks which lie to the south of Brecon. Sometimes referred to as "the central Beacons" they include South Wales' highest mountain, Pen y Fan. The range forms the central section of the Brecon Beacons National Park (Parc Cenedlaethol Bannau Brycheiniog), a designation which also encompasses ranges both to the east and the west of "the central Beacons". This much wider area is also commonly referred to as "the Brecon Beacons", and it includes the Black Mountains to the east as well as the similarly named but quite distinct Black Mountain to the west. The highest peaks include Fan Brycheiniog to the west and Pen y Fan in the central part. They share the same basic geology as the central range, and so exhibit many similar features, such as the north-facing escarpment and glacial features such as lakes and cwms (cirques).
For two night we camped at Priory Mill Campsite by the River Honddu. It is a low impact site - quietly run with no commercialism whatsoever. The owners have been there for over 20 years. They allow no groups, children or dogs. It is very peaceful with the added advantage of being in walking distance of Brecon town and therefore the pubs of Brecon. (Find the Brecon Tap and sit right in the town square. Very atmospheric.)
Next day was a lovely walking day - bright but with a breeze. We walked to the top of Corn Du 2864 ft and the the highest peak in S Wales - Pen Y Fan 2907 ft. We took the quick route disparagingly referred to as "the motorway"! It starts from the carpark of the Storey Arms. True there can be a lot of people setting out but you soon lose them on the 4 hour plus trek. If you are lucky to have clear visibility - as we were on this day - the views are spectacular. I have walked to the top of Pen y Fan several times over the years. I would do it anytime. It is a very rewarding thing to do.
Next day we headed south down to the coast. The weather was poor so a good day to drive. By late morning we were in Swansea and visited the well known Swansea Market. I had a Swansea breakfast which is basically a full English but with laverbread (seaweed) and cockles. A surf and turf breakfast - ha!
We were booked to camp on The Gower peninsula - another AONB and NT presence. The afternoon brightened considerably and we were able to doze in the sun overlooking stunning Rhossilli Bay with its 3 mile long beach.
Overnight a storm came in - very strong winds and heavy rain but the Vango Omega 350 with the bracing straps locked - stood up well.
Next day everything brightened and the tides were perfect to walk / scrabble out onto the Worms Head.
Worms Head - Wiki
Worm's Head (Welsh: Ynys Weryn) is a headland which is the furthest westerly point on the Gower Peninsula, at Rhossili. The name Worm's Head is derived from an Old English word for 'dragon'.[1] The headland of carboniferous limestone comprises three islands: the Inner Head, the Middle Head which features a collapsed sea cave known as the Devil's Bridge and the Outer Head. In total it is approximately a mile long, and the Inner Head up to 200 yards wide. Worm's Head is only accessible on foot for 2+1⁄2 hours either side of low tide, fatal to attempt to wade or swim to when the causeway from the mainland is flooded.
The poet Dylan Thomas initially described the Worm's Head as "the very promontory of depression" and was forced once to spend the night on the Head after being trapped by the tide.
In August 2020 seven visitors were rescued by the coastguard after getting stranded on Worm's Head by the incoming tide. In September 2020 seven Swansea University students also had to be rescued after becoming stranded.[5
The Worms Head walk is a bit of a test. It involves a lot of scrambling. The rocks are sharp and vicious - so be careful! Adhere to the tide/time advice of course. There is a real sense of satisfaction when you have completed it as with Pen y Fan walk. It is great when you get back and look out to the Worms Head and think - I have just climbed to the top of that!
In the evening we have a celebratory dinner at a great little pub called the Britannia Inn at Llanmadoc (in the middle of nowhere - ha!).
On the way back home to the Island we stopped off at Barry Island of Gavin & Stacy fame. It is a bucket and spade kiss me quick type of place. I will try and not be too judgemental. The beach appeared excellent and we walked out onto a very gusty headland which was a good place to be. Barry Island is an amusement park and fast food haven. It is what it is and everyone there seemed to be enjoying themselves. It is not like so many of the UK's resort towns - on its last legs. It seems to be doing ok.
Now back on the Island we can reflect on those full 4 days. Really excellent. Brecon and The Gower are an excellent combination and a very practical place to get to from the Island.
Here are a few mob photos :
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River Wye - England one side Wales the other |
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Tinturn Abbey |
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Priory Mill campsite Brecon |
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On the way up to Pen Y Fan. First Corn Du - the black anvil. |
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after Corn Du the short descent and then climb to Pen y Fan |
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Pen y Fan in the middle |
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a Swansea breakfast - laverbread (fried seaweed with cockles) |
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beautiful Rhossili |
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the worm and Worms Head |
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Seals commonplace |
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On the Worms Head |
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Oxwich Bay - the Gower |
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fished here with my dad and brothers many years ago |
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The Old School House Oxwich. We rented it for easter holidays many years ago. Nice to see it again. |
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View from the Britannia Inn |
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Barry Island where Ness played father christmas and Gavin & Stacey met apparently |