David Shoulder - Isle of Wight: May 2022

To celebrate my eldest and only daughters special birthday (mega covid delayed) we visited Rome for a short break. Victoria is a busy professional with a husband and 2 daughters so to find this quality time for dad and daughter was really lovely. Vic had never been to Rome and was excited about it. She has always been interested in history and to her credit had done some background reading on what was to come!

Rome is an easy city to get to - flight from Bristol (albeit early) and then on to the Leonardo Da Vinci Express from the airport straight to Rome centre - without stopping in 25 minutes.

A quick stop off at our hotel ( near Repubblica at the head of Via Nazionale) - don some lighter clothes and walking shoes and we are ready for lunch - lol!. As recommended it is a short walk to Via Urbana. It is a fine warm day. It is incredible that in just a few hours from Exeter we can be transported to a place like this. As we wander down the narrow bright and shady little streets we like Rome very much already. Central Rome is not perfect by any means and who would want it to be? Actually it is often scruffy - a lot of graffiti and a health and safety officers nightmare in terms of road and pavement maintenance - ha!. However it is as it should be - not sterile - a place of function and activity and life. It is real - it is organic and of course it is charming and indeed very old. The colours are outstanding - every vista - every little side street - changes in the light and shadow. Certainly a place to take photos!

We choose a small Trattoria and really wind down from the journey and our early start. We have our guidebook and a very helpful map that our hotel receptionist marked with coloured pens for us. Inevitably and like millions of others we want to see the major sites which are of course so well documented and explained in the guide book. I have been to Rome before and believe it or not despite the many years that have elapsed still have a feel for the layout. One thing I certainly remember is central Rome is not a particularly big place and everything is within reasonable walking distance. We decide what we are going to do - we have time - and decide to use the first afternoon - the travel day - as a low key bonus. We go for a wander.

The Colosseo(m) is pretty close and we thought we might be able to get a late ticket - but tickets are only available online. It is still amazing to be in its proximity - this is ancient Rome - with Palantine Hill and the Roman Forum close by.

We walk down to Circus Maximus - the ancient racetrack - chariot races etc of Ben Hur type - Ben-Hur (1/10) Movie CLIP - Parade of the Charioteers (1959) HD - Bing video Now you need your imagination of course - it is a flat bottomed grass valley but you definitely get the vibe. As we walked down the length we see a tented village - and we speculate what it might be. It turns out to be a big race expo - they are taking entries for a charity run next day in the aid of breast cancer research. The format turns out to be ideal for us especially as we planned to do an early morning jog anyway. It is a 5k - 3 miles around the sites - particularly the Colosseum and starting and finishing around Circus Maximus. We sign up - a 9.30 start on Sunday morning. We move on - love being up on the Capitolino Hill and the Piazza del Campigidoglio. There are great views from here and immense statues. Eventually we come down to see the enormous and spectacular white marble edifice that is the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele. This is not ancient Rome but built between 1885 and 1911 to celebrate the unification of Italy. It is not exactly a subtle building but we spent and hour walking up the enormous stair cases and enjoying the views.

Eating (and the odd beer for me and Aperol Spritz for Vic - lol) is our anchor - or say reward. There must be thousands of places to eat in Rome. I think it would be quite difficult to choose somewhere where their pasta dishes were not good. Is there anything nicer than dining al fresco with a cold beer or two!?

Next day it is the run. We stroll to the start. I know where it is but I am sure there are shortcuts. We follow a group of ladies evidently kitted out to do the run as well - and in broken English we have a laugh. No bones about it - being in the massive starting crowd was a brilliant place to be. It wasn't really a race - just a charity fun run but it was a huge event - more than 10000. It was a happy smiling place - speeches from the great and good and loud upbeat pop music. Just before the off the crowd start singing the Italian National anthem. I sort of know the words from watching the rugby six nations for years. It is a joyous anthem and the Italians love singing it. I rather sadly reflected this would be unlikely to happen in the UK - too many people not proud of our nation. For those moments I was envious of the Italians - but no doubt they have their problems too.

The run was such a cool thing to do in the heat! We ran right in the heart of Rome - around many of its famous sites - with big crowds cheering. Vic and I swopped taking photos - how mad to be running by the Colosseum in the footsteps of all manner of ancient Romans and no doubt many slaves and even gladiators! ( Vic had read the Coliseum was built about 2000 years ago - in 9 years - mainly by Jewish slaves and largely paid for by 50 tons of gold grabbed from one Jerusalem synagogue by the all conquering Romans.) The final mile was to climb the lovely Aventino hill (one of Rome's 7 hills) before descending down to the Circus Maximus finish. Amazing. We eventually wander back to the hotel to shower and treat ourselves to a massive albeit medium size gelato on the way. Not a bad Sunday morning.

(Quickly - a couple of things come to mind. The first is Rome is not a wealthy place in terms of say northern Italy - cities like Milan. It shows in the maintenance of the streets for instance and the Roman's themselves look a bit care worn. Vic reminded me what a tough covid Italy has had - in as much as covid started here in Europe and there were terrible scenes in the early days of bodies piling up in hospital corridors pre vaccinations. I was chatting to some expats who said many Italians have been traumatised by covid and the nation is struggling to shake it off. The other thing and why Rome is so beautiful and special apart from its history - is it has not allowed its historical centre to be changed by new buildings in the pursuit of business and commerce. Frontages and facades have been maintained. Very little neon - and very little change in outward appearance. Not like in the UK where so many town centres are heartless and can all look the same. I digress!)

Our plan is to visit the Vatican in the afternoon. We have had a recommendation to have at least one meal in the Jewish quarter which is located on the north bank of the River Tiber (Tevere) - just opposite Pont Fabricio to Isola. It was an excellent tip. The area was buzzing - the street bistros and restaurants teeming but very relaxed and non threatening. We get an ideal outside table and have a lovely lunch before moving on to stroll along the river to the Vatican.

We both have very mixed feelings about the Vatican. I have been there before as I said. It was a place we should see from a general tourism point of view - so lets leave it there. Oddly the area was pretty quiet on this warm early Sunday afternoon. We stood in St Peter's Square - it is impressive with the Basilica di San Pietro at the far end (from where the Pope sometimes addresses the crowd). We saw the Sistine Chapel from outside and identified the famous chimney. We drank from the cool fountains. The highlight for me was taking a mob pic for a group of delightful giggling nuns. We had no real interest in going inside and seeing the wealth of the Catholic church on display. After a half hour of sitting in the square people watching we head back up the rather tackily commercial Via della Conciliazione (and notice the homeless camping under the bridges leading across the Tiber to the Vatican City).

It is a lovely afternoon. We are in no rush and are feeling the buzz of being in Rome and particularly the joy of the run this morning. We walk a bit - we sit a bit - we walk a bit . Eventually we decide to walk up to The Pantheon. It is in the heart of Rome - among windy streets and the navigation exercise creates a few laughs particularly as an arm of my reading glasses got busted in this mornings run. Vic cracks up as I study the map with lop sided glasses perched on my little nose. Shame on her for the photos she took - lol!

It makes sense to go to Piazza Navona first. What a place. From the guide book - none of Rome's many squares is as grand or theatrical. The magnificent Piazza is described as a baroque showpiece. We admire the fountains and the buildings and take a beer in one of the many outdoor cafes. It was special reading from the guidebook and watching the people in this tremendous setting.

We get to the wonderful Piazza della Rotunda in which the incredible 2000 year old Pantheon sits. It is magnificent. There are plenty of people here but the atmosphere is relaxed. People are sat everywhere enjoying the spectacle. Vic loves it here and the background reading she has done about the Pantheon adds a lot. Entry is free but is oversubscribed on this afternoon. No matter we have time tomorrow.

The Trevi Fountain is on our route back. Another stunning place. It was busy but the Trevi is set up like a theatre. The fountain is the performance - the stage - and people sit around and watch from the marble steps. It was early evening. Warm. Lots of laughing. No aggression whatsoever from the crowd. We sat there for half an hour not saying much. It was special.

A quick shower and change and we are out for a simple dinner at Trattoria il Tettarello. The pizza's were so good. I am not sure how or why it happened but our Italian waiter said you know my name? I said no what is it? He said Brad Pitt. We laughed. I said you might know me - I am Richard Geer. He said of course and this must be Agenlina Jolie ! It was very funny - but Vic said I look nothing like Angelina Jolie!. I have no idea.- lol.

Our final full day - we have a plan! We have a nice walk through the early morning commercial streets to the Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna). They are not far from our hotel. We enter from the top of the staircase and takes some photos. It is fun - like a model shoot ha! We descend to the Piazza. Later we walk down what feels like Rome's Bond Street - Via Condotti. We wind our way back to The Pantheon - 2000 years old. We spend a half hour inside - amazed by its sophisticated structure - the massive domed and open roof. We have read about it - too much to describe here. One of the highlights - we have coffee in the Piazza overlooking this fantastic building. It could not be more Rome. It is perfect. Vic said several times I can not believe where I am sitting and what I am looking at. She has a real sense of history and place. It adds so much to our trip.

Our final lunch is to be over the river in the Trastevere area. Trastevere is described as a quaint enclave on the south bank of the Tiber. It is. Cobbled streets - tiny Squares. Lots of small bars and cafes. It was a lovely place to be in the shade. Vic could not resist another pizza. I had to try it again - but Rome style. Tripe. It was extremely tender - not a strong taste - a bit like squid or maybe octopus - lol!

For the afternoon we had tickets for the Colesseo, Palatino and Roman Forum. There was a bit of queuing and bag checking to gain entry but it did not take too long. Once at ground floor level concourse you get a real impression of the size of the supporting pillars. The Coliseum was the first great stadium copied many times since. It is impressive now - imagine 2000 years ago! You ascend to the second floor tier and move into the stadium proper. It is here you really get the atmosphere as you look down and up. Up you see the tiered banks of seats. The white marble ones - closest to the action - for the rich and the higher tiers - made of wood for the common people. 70000 spectators! Above them would have been massive poles bearing huge sail clothes to provide shade from the beating sun. Look down and you see the labyrinth that held the slaves, the animals and yes the gladiators. Over them and only partially there now of course was a huge wooden floor on which the terrible activities took place. Animals and people were brought up by wooden lifts and through trap doors. Spartacus and Rome at play. Really amazing.

Exit out and across the way is the Palantino Hill and the Roman Forum. As all of Rome there have been books and books - life times of study completed about what happened here in the days of the Roman Empire and the legacy they left that still affects us today. It would be ridiculous for me to try and write about it - ha! So this is what I will write. The Palantino Hill is one of the 7 hills that Rome was founded on. One book described it as the Beverley Hills of ancient Rome. There are palaces up there - beautiful gardens and stunning views. Nero's palace? The air is cooler and cleaner. It is is lovely when you walk up. A great place to sit and picnic or ponder. Then there is the history!

One of the views from the Palantino Hill is the Roman Forum. It is an easy walk down into it. What is the Roman Forum? The million dollar question! In a nutshell it was the central - main area in Ancient Rome where the great and the good met to do business - to govern - to socialise maybe - as I understand. Is is an area now of ancient ruins but it is so atmospheric because there are a lot of ruins left and some are still very well formed. It was quiet down there - in the valley - in the bowl. It was not hard to imagine wealthy Roman's in their white togas walking around. Vic and I loved it there. A special place.

So the end of our long weekend visit to Rome (after another Italian dinner of course - ha!).

It is a fantastic city to visit. It was memorable to be there with my daughter. Thank you darling. Happy birthday xxxx

Here are a some mob photos. We took a lot. It is inevitable in such a place. Sorry they are a bit all over the place!