David Shoulder - Isle of Wight: February 2023

My son James invariably has some holiday to use up early in the new year (before it expires at the end of March). How to use it? James loves the "all inclusive" by the pool in the sun type holiday and in past years we have headed to the Canaries - quite often with my brother - Uncle Mike. It takes us no time to convince ourselves we should find a week in our cold wet January. So to the Canaries again - a safe bet - but Egypt came up because package companies are currently offering cheap deals there. James and I had been to Egypt before but 10 years ago now probably and Mike knows Egypt well through work and kite surfing. It is quite a bit longer to fly there than the Canaries - a reason not to go - but prices were very substantially cheaper for the same type of package. So seven days all inclusive in a big hotel in Sharm El Sheik with "5 stars" and an aqua park !!!

My main intention is to write about a night time ascent of Mount Sinai with Mike but before I do that a quick bit about "Sharm" as it is known.

Sharm El Sheikh is an Egyptian city on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, in South Sinai Governorate, on the coastal strip along the Red Sea. Its population is approximately 53,670 as of 2022.

Sharm El Sheikh was formerly a port, but commercial shipping has been greatly reduced as the result of strict environmental laws introduced in the 1990s. Until 1982, there was only a military port in Sharm El Sheikh, on the northern part of Marsa Bareka. The civilian port development started in the mid-1980s, when the Sharem-al-Maya Bay became the city's main yacht and service port.

Sharm El Sheikh's major industry is foreign and domestic tourism, owing to its landscape, year-round dry climate with long hot summers and warm winters and its long beaches. Its waters are clear and calm for most of the year and have become popular for various watersports, particularly recreational scuba diving and snorkeling. There is scope for scientific tourism due to the diversity of marine life: 250 different coral reefs and 1000 species of fish.

These natural resources, together with its proximity to tourist markets in Europe, have stimulated rapid growth in tourism in the region. The number of resorts has increased from three in 1982 to ninety-one in 2000. Guest nights also increased in that period from sixteen thousand to 5.1 million. Companies that have invested in the city include Hyatt, Accor, Marriott International, Le Méridien, Four Seasons Hotels, and Ritz-Carlton, with categories of three to five stars. In 2007, the first aqua park hotel resort opened in the area. The four-star Aqua Blu Sharm Resort was built on the Ras Om El Seid, with an area of 133,905 square metres (1,441,340 sq ft). It development continues a pace but was very badly hit by covid and its implications for travel.

Our hotel was massive but on our arrival it was clear it was nowhere near full. It subsequently became apparent that this was mainly because it was early in their season. We had fantastic weather but the hotels are busier when the weather hots up even more. The other feature is our hotel guest makeup was dominated by Russian speakers - not necessarily Russians but from their former satellite states - the "stans". We had no problems but you will be aware of their presence and of course the language creates a barrier from a social point of view.

MOUNT SINAI

An all inclusive is fine for a week but Mike and I feel it is good to do something out of the hotel to break up the week. We settled on an organised trek to walk to the top of Mount Sinai - the place where many believe Moses received the 10 commandments. (James is not keen on heights and was happy to stay by the pool!) We were picked up from our Sharm Hotel at 9pm to drive north deep into the rugged Sinai desert. Our assent started at just after 2am under torch light on a rough but established path. There were hundreds doing the same thing. The explanation - Mount Sinai is a place of pilgrimage as Moses is significant and revered to Christians, Jews and Muslims alike. (I will admit this both confuses and surprises me given that it was Moses that led the Israelites to the promised land. More on this later).

Mount Sinai is 7497 feet high and surrounded by other rugged mountains. Although our walk started at the base we were of course well above sea level. We were told the walk up would be about 7k on a winding path with various stops as necessary. The plan was to witness the sun rise from the top which would be at around 6.30 am. (please do not think you can do this on a whim in the winter - you need some descent gear - so some prior thought needed.)

It was quite a warm walk initially - there was some excitement too. Despite the dark there was a bit of a buzz and the other feature was there were camels on the trail available for hire for those that could not walk to the top. The camels could take you a fair part of the way at a cost (unknown). They are amazing creatures. Anyway like most others we walked of course. Gradually things settled down - groups separated and it was possible to get in the zone which is something I always try to do. Getting in the zone for me means appreciating where I am - reflecting on it - being amazed by it actually and of course determined to walk to the top with a bit of self respect. It was quite a tough walk especially in the dark with only minimum torch light available.

We get to within 10 minutes of the summit at about an hour before sunrise. By now we are much higher and it is freezing. The cold is exacerbated because inevitably you sweat walking up and even with breathable clothes moisture is retained. We were able to hire blankets (a good business). They with heavy and smelly - but at the time it didn't matter. We wrapped ourselves in them until the time came to move up to the top.

So there we were with many other people - where Moses received the Ten Commandments - looking out over the Sinai desert as the sun rose. It was a good thing to do - another good memory for sure.

Coming down in the day light on the same path we went up in the dark was a strange contrast. One negative though. Too often people inevitably means litter. It was now evident to us in the daylight. A shame especially given its status as a place of pilgrimage.

After a couple of hours we are down in the hot sun sat outside the St Catherine's monastery at the foot of the mountain. We had a tour within the walls. It is designated a World Heritage Site. It is a very historic place famous for its icon collection, its mosque within a church evidencing peace and most notably the "burning bush" from where Moses heard the voice of god.

Here is an extract from Wikipedia :

Saint Catherine's Monastery officially the Sacred Autonomous Royal Monastery of Saint Katherine of the Holy and God-Trodden Mount Sinai is an Eastern Orthodox Christian monastery located at the foot of Mount Sinai, in the Sinai Peninsula, Egypt. Built between 548 and 565, it is the oldest continuously inhabited Christian monastery in the world.

The monastery was built by order of Emperor Justinian I, enclosing what is claimed to be the burning bush seen by Moses. Centuries later, the purported body of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, said to have been found in the area, was taken to the monastery; Saint Catherine's relics turned it into an important pilgrimage site, and the monastery was eventually renamed after the saint.

Controlled by the autonomous Church of Sinai, which is part of the wider Greek Orthodox Church, the monastery became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002 for its unique importance in the traditions of Christianity, Islam, and Judaism.

The site also holds the world's oldest continually operating library, with unique or extremely rare works, such as the Codex Sinaiticus and the Syriac Sinaiticus, as well as possibly the largest collection of early Christian icons, including the earliest known depiction of Jesus as Christ Pantocrator.

Saint Catherine's has as its backdrop the three mountains it lies near: Ras Sufsafeh (possibly the Biblical Mount Horeb, peak c.1 km (0.62 mi) west); Jebel Arrenziyeb, peak c. 1km south; and Mount Sinai (locally, Jebel Musa, by tradition identified with the biblical Mount Sinai; peak c. 2 km (1.2 mi) south).

We had a great time in Egypt. For some it might be confronting. Sharm hotels try and offer a "western" experience but things can be quirky and sometimes they miss but it is part of the ups and downs of travel. What is undoubted - fabulous weather in the winter and incredible value at the moment. The three of us had a real good time and a lot of laughs. James had an extra day by the pool but Mike and I have treaded the steps of Moses to the top of Mount Sinai - pretty cool even if you are at least an agnostic !

Here are a few photos :