David Shoulder - Isle of Wight

Lucky granddad. Recently returned from 3 nights in Paris with Victoria and my granddaughters Annabelle and Ayla. The girls are 12 and nearly 10. They had not been to Paris before. We wanted to show them some of the sites as a granddad treat. It was a joy and a privilege.

It was an easy flight from Bristol to CDG and in no time our taxi dropped us at our central Paris hotel - the base for our short stay. We had a programme and had booked things in advance.

First morning we were booked to visit the Louvre at 9.30. We walked - chatting - down the Champs Elysees - across Place de la Concorde and down to the Louvre. I explained about the Louvre pyramid and how controversial it was initially and how well it is now generally regarded. There were plenty of people queuing but their system worked like clockwork. As you would expect of somewhere that ranks one of the world's most visited places everything is well organised and clear. There are 35000 exhibits at the Louvre - the guide book says it would take 9 months to stop and look at each one. We have maybe 2 or 3 hours.

We had talked in advance about the Mona Lisa and why it might be so famous (not sure ha!). It is the star attraction - the must see - which we of course did. Similarly with the Venus de Milo. Vic is really in to history and while she she had been to the Louvre before she could have spent our whole time there. The girls seemed to get a lot from it - they especially enjoyed the gallery dedicated to the French royal family jewels ! Time went quickly.

For lunch we buy filled baguettes - (and Annabelle loves donuts from NoGlu). We eat them sat on a bench people watching. Later we cross back over the Seine - and walk back through the Place de la Concorde and up the Champs Elysees to visit the Arc De Triomphe. This is the first time I have walked to the top. So its through the underpass and up the 234 spiraled steps to the balcony. The girls loved it and I made it ok! The views out over Paris were before us - especially the Champs Elysees. Hard not to be impressed. Later we visited the flame of the unknown soldier which is under the arch. Our full day is finished by a swim at our hotel and then a walk to a Pizza restaurant that specializes in gluten free food. On the way we walk close to the illuminated Eiffel Tower and marvel that if the plan works we will get to the very top tomorrow. Vic organises an Uber back to the hotel. Brilliant value and very easy. Vics stepometer says we have done 27000 steps. The girls were amazing and great company.

Next day we have 9.30 am tickets to the top of the Eiffel Tower. We walk from our hotel. Annabelle has really cracked google maps. She is our navigator. It was lovely being in the center of Paris on a quiet still Sunday morning. We cross the Champs Elysee and the Seine again. The Eiffel Tower is getting closer and closer. It is exciting. 9.30 is the opening. Pre booked tickets is the way to go. There is some security checks but it felt low key. We are directed straight to the lift to the second level and then funneled to the lift up the middle of the tower straight to the very top. It costs more to access the top but it was worth it. The views are obviously stupendous and Vic and I have a strong sense of place and occasion and the girls got it too. We were somewhere special and it was our good fortune. (one rather crude but funny observation - there is a public toilet right on the top of the Eiffel Tower - quite a claim to have used it - ha! ). The girls are really engaged and great. We pick out the Arc de Triomphe (that we had been to the top of the day before.) Now it looks relatively tiny. One thing evident from the Arc and from the top of the Eiffel is how well Paris is laid out. Each hubs with all major roads leading off like spokes in a wheel. The only thing that could be better was if the tree lined avenues were in leaf - alas it is a bit early - but then there are fewer tourists as a bonus. We eventually exit via the lift to the second level and then eventually enjoy the sensation of the relatively long walk down on the metal staircases (made all the more special as pretty much everyone else seemed to be using the lift.) The Eiffel tower really is an amazing structure - especially when you are on it. Here is an extract about the tower from Wikipedia :-

The Eiffel Tower is a wrought-iron lattice tower on the Champ de Mars in Paris, France. It is named after the engineer Gustave Eiffel, whose company designed and built the tower from 1887 to 1889.

Locally nicknamed "La dame de fer" (French for "Iron Lady"), it was constructed as the centerpiece of the 1889 World's Fair, and to crown the centennial anniversary of the French Revolution. Although initially criticised by some of France's leading artists and intellectuals for its design, it has since become a global cultural icon of France and one of the most recognisable structures in the world. The tower received 5,889,000 visitors in 2022. The Eiffel Tower is the most visited monument with an entrance fee in the world: 6.91 million people ascended it in 2015. It was designated a monument historique in 1964, and was named part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site ("Paris, Banks of the Seine") in 1991.

The tower is 330 metres (1,083 ft) tall, about the same height as an 81-storey building, and the tallest structure in Paris. Its base is square, measuring 125 metres (410 ft) on each side. During its construction, the Eiffel Tower surpassed the Washington Monument to become the tallest human-made structure in the world, a title it held for 41 years until the Chrysler Building in New York City was finished in 1930. It was the first structure in the world to surpass both the 200-metre and 300-metre mark in height. Due to the addition of a broadcasting aerial at the top of the tower in 1957, it is now taller than the Chrysler Building by 5.2 metres (17 ft). Excluding transmitters, the Eiffel Tower is the second tallest free-standing structure in France after the Millau Viaduct.

The tower has three levels for visitors, with restaurants on the first and second levels. The top level's upper platform is 276 m (906 ft) above the ground – the highest observation deck accessible to the public in the European Union. Tickets can be purchased to ascend by stairs or lift to the first and second levels. The climb from ground level to the first level is over 300 steps, as is the climb from the first level to the second, making the entire ascent a 600 step climb. Although there is a staircase to the top level, it is usually accessible only by lift. On this top, third level is a private apartment built for Gustave Eiffel's private use. He decorated it with furniture by Jean Lachaise and invited friends such as Thomas Edison

We get down to the concourse again and enjoy messing around taking photos - like being on a photo shoot with three models !

For the afternoon Vic has booked us in to a cabaret show at Paradise Latin. We were not sure what we were going to get - but it was advertised as suitable for children. We choose to walk again - to have lunch on the way. It is fascinating to walk. You see so much more - and opportunity to chat about what you see. The girls are engaging. Vic is so positive and in tune with her Paris surroundings. Brilliant.

The theatre setting is so much more than we expected - built by the man that built the Eiffel Tower.

The Paradis Latin is a theater at number 28, rue du Cardinal Lemoine, in the Latin Quarter of Paris, in the fifth arrondissement, near Notre-Dame, the Panthéon, and the Tour d'Argent restaurant. The closest métro stations are Cardinal Lemoine and Jussieu.

It was first built on the rue des Fosses-Saint-Victor in 1803 and called Théâtre Latin. It burned down in 1870, but was rebuilt on the rue du Cardinal Lemoine, as Paradis Latin in 1887–1889 by Gustave Eiffel. It was closed around 1900, but was rehabilitated, starting in 1973, and reopened, in 1977, as a cabaret venue.

The setting was so atmospheric. We had our own table and had a glass of champagne. The show itself was of a high standard - the content a bit random - but very entertaining - plenty of music and dancing. Perfect.

By now we are pretty exhausted. Vic sorts an Uber and Vic and the girls hatch a plan to ditch going out for dinner again in the evening but to use the hotel pool and then have a picnic in the hotel. Vic and the girls went to a close by supermarket and came back with a mini banquet. It was a perfect wind down evening.

Next morning we have a civilised flight time - this time back from Orly. Uber is the way to go. The girls are fascinated (because of the one hour time difference) it only takes us 10 minutes to fly home !

A couple of thoughts if you are going to plan something similar. Paris is such a tourist draw and major attractions can get very crowded. Going when we did - sort of out of season - has lots of benefits - if you are lucky with the weather - as we were. The other is book tickets online and take the early slots. Both The Eiffel tower and Louvre have the same approach. There are half hour fixed entrance slots - but once you are in you are in - there is no fixed time. Consequently the attractions get busier and busier as the day develops. I remember the last time I went to the Louvre and The Eiffel Tower - it felt too busy. This time it wasn't - even the Mona Lisa was reasonably accessible.

One final thought on architecture - Prince Charles - now King Charles has pushed new building to be proportionate and blend in with its surroundings - as Poundbury! However the Eiffel Tower - (built in 1880's) an now the Louvre Pyramid could not be more radical in their time. And now what do the Parisians have - two of the most iconic and recognizable (and loved) structures in the world.

Thank you Phil and Vic for making it happen. The girls made it such a special memory.

Ps and the news you have all been waiting for - Annabelle and Ayla beat mum and granddad in the swim relay !

Here are a few mob photos xxx

Early Saturday morning at The Louvre

The photo bomber

Annabelle excited to get gluten free donuts

Arc de Triomphe.

Tomb of the unknown soldier

The 4 of us walking down inside The Arc de Triomphe

Who used the loo at the very top of the Arc De Triomphe ?

My friend Jo and I are back from a city break to Berlin. It was our first time in Berlin. Here are some thoughts and observations in no particular order - ha!

First - the disclaimers. Our visit was only 3 nights and it was January - and it was mainly central Berlin. Obviously we only scratched the surface. Also I went thinking I would know quite a lot about Berlin already - from its history and as usual I had done a bit of reading in advance.
On the plane we talked to a Brit who lived and worked in Berlin. She said it was very safe - much safer than London. (Safer than London - I am not sure that is saying much.)
Berlin is flat. (The Berlin Marathon is a favorite with marathon runners looking to set a fast time.)
Obviously much of Berlin was destroyed by bombing and heavy fighting in the second world war. Some of the original buildings have been repaired or recreated. A lot has been built in the 1960's style particularly in the East and of course this is now regarded as pretty grim. However Berlin too has been a hotbed of building in modern architectural styles - cutting edge stuff. (I will come back to this).
In April 1945 2 million Soviet soldiers entered ruined and starving Berlin. The Allies followed not long after.
In The Potsdam Conference that followed Berlin was divided into 4 sectors - one controlled by each of the Russians, Americans, French and British.
In 1949 Germany was divided into 2 separate states The Federal Republic (West Germany) - capitalist ideology - as Britain and USA and the GDR - German Democratic Republic (East Germany) communist ideology controlled by the Russians.
Berlin remained the capital of the GDR as Berlin is in the was in the east of Germany geographically.
The capital of West Germany was moved to Bonn but a corridor was kept through East Germany to provide access to West Berlin which remained under the control of West Germany and the allies.
This was the start of The Cold War. As differences between the rate of improvement and the freedom West Berliners experienced compared to the communist controlled East Berlin meant there was an exodus towards the West.
In 1961 the GDR erected the Berlin Wall to stop the exodus and comparison with the much better performing capitalist west. (tells you much of what you need to know about the evils of communism and its sad junior - socialism).
The wall became a brutal reality. Families were divided. East German guards shot hundreds in their desperate attempts to reach the freedom of western philosophy and lifestyle. The communists became ever more paranoid and extreme.
On the wall - actually there were 2 walls for the most part. The outer border wall and the inner wall with a wide brightly lit and sentried open bare strip which made it so much more dangerous to attempt a crossing.
Checkpoint Charlie was the heavily controlled crossing point between East and West - made famous in the spy movies like Tinker Tailor.
The Berlin Wall fell on 9th November 1989 and the German unification of East and West Germany formally happened on 3rd October 1990.
To this day it is possible to identify East and West Berlin from its appearance and style. East Berlin is generally less smart - less stylish but for all that I felt more real and more interesting. Potsdamer Platz (west) for instance is huge modern and stylish - but in some ways you could be anywhere.
Berlin is not perfect. They have cracked pavements too ! A few observations moving around :- the roads are wide and open. The traffic is orderly and considerate. Everyone stands and waits for green lights at their crossings - even if it is obviously safe to cross. ( this didn't come natural to us.)
Food and drink prices are very fair I would say. Good value.
Traditional Berlin food is not high end - might even be referred to as heavy - but Berliners to their credit are not often obese as people are.here. Sauerkraut is good for the digestion maybe. We really enjoyed trying their food - even the ridiculous Currywurst !
We visited the Reichstag - the German Parliament for a guided tour. The original Reichstag building has a tremendous (dark) history - the Berlin wall was built right behind it leaving it in the west and the Brandenburg gate which is very close by - in the east. The Reichstag has been completely remodeled and modernised. It is a very functional building - but the interior is in no way celebratory or even nation proud in the way other parliament buildings I have been to over the years have been. I guess this is largely because of the national shame of the Third Reich. Our guide emphasised that it is now impossible for the German constitution to be set aside - this was very important to her. She rather sour faced referred to the emergence of the AfD (Alternative for Germany) a right wing eurosceptic anti immigration party. (now the 3rd biggest political party in Germany and growing. This is scaring a lot of people and some advocate the banning of AfD (as seeing history repeating itself ). Watch this space !
Finally - Graffiti ! You choose - street art or vandalism. It is everywhere. All over the remains of the Berlin Wall - Eastside Gallery celebrate it as significant and culturally important. However there is masses of easy graffiti and for us it amounts to no more than vandalism. Not impressed at all.

I could write a lot more but time to stop. We enjoyed Berlin. It is different. There are many elements you would expect in Germany. Things work, things are ordered. What was west Berlin as I have said is of course rebuilt and rebuilt again from 1960's to glitzy modern. A bit heartless for me and I am not interested in "mall" shopping and everything that goes with it. The east remains mainly in 1960's style as a sweeping generalisation. It is often a bit scruffy but the shops etc more real. But of course East or West - there is no wall anymore - it is one city so I recommend to get out there and walk around - ha!

Mob photos :