Thursday 30 April 2015

#Incas The Sacred Valley and the Spanish Conquestadors

I am now in Cusco the Inca capital. I have visited the Inca Sacred Valley and have treked to Machu Picchu the Inca city in the mountains.

Much of the last week has been spent trying to learn about the Inca and their dramatic downfall at the hands of the gold crazed Spanish invaders which has had such a tragic and dramatic effect on what little is left of the Inca civilisation today.

I shall start by saying what I say below might not be wholly correct. It is a very complex and contradictory picture. Accademics disagree and my understanding might be out. Little seems certain. Inca civilisation had no writing or if they did it has not been discovered and as I have said the Spaniards robbed and destroyed to an incredible extent. 60% of the Inca died in the first 10 years of the Spanish arrival.

So what do I know? Well the Inca empire was largely built in the Andes - the mountain chain that runs north to South down the western side of South America. The area is characterised by steep sided valleys, fast flowing rivers that often flood, a wet season and a dry season, high altitude and earthquakes.

The stand out fact for me is I have learned the Inca Empire was not set BC or at the time of the Egyptians, Greeks or Romans as perhaps I thought. The Inca story starts about 1200 AD and their empire built in the last 100 years or so of their reign before the invading Spanish overthrough them in 1533. Machu Picchu for instance is estimated to have been started in 1438 and was never actually finished.

As there are no written records by the Inca knowledge of them is built from Spanish chronicles, oral stories passed down the line, archeology and scientific research. There are many theories and many conflicting ones.

Here are some random things I have gleaned :-
  • The Inca were pastoral and part of a long line of civilisations who lived in the area and dating back centuries before. The Inca became very successful farmers, great organisers and engineers. Knowledge was highly valued. Young children were tested for aptitude and directed at an early stage to learn skills best suited to their ability.
  • The successful Inca began to spread their wings and acquire land and people to build a massive empire especially in the 15th century. They did so ultimately by war but also by assimilation and making attractive offers to tribes to improve their lot. Their empire eventually extended over several countries as we know it today - 2 million square kilometres and 20 million people.
  • The Inca never invented money or collected taxes. Dues were paid by work or goods. A cornerstone and one the secrets of their success was pooling labour. You help one day you will be helped the next.
  • It is claimed they had no writing system although it is also claimed the Spanish destroyed it to keep control. Their arithmetic used a system of horizontal and vertical strings and knots.
  • The Inca were very much in tune with nature. They believed in sun and mountain gods, believed in the after life and the power of sacrifice.
  • The Inca power house at Cusco retained the knowlege with an outer ring of nobles. To look different they prized miss shapen heads and bandaged young royal children with wooden blocks to distort the skulls development. They often had massively extended ear lobes - down to their shoulders.
  • The could do cranium operations.
  • The Inca inner circle suffered from haemofillia as they inbred to keep the royal line pure. Weak children were often the first to be sacrificed.
  • I could write so much more!
To develop their empire and retain control the Inca built thousands of miles of trails linking many thousands of population centres. They did so with great engineering skill - working with nature. Much remains today despite the complex mountain terrain fast flowing rivers and of course earthquakes. Much of what the Spanish built has been lost or rebuilt. Modern day we often just bulldoze.

The Sacred Valley - is relatively close to Cusco and formed the heartland of the Inca Empire. It is an Andean Valley - with a very fertile river plane - the river being the sacred Urubamba. However the river regularly floods so the Inca built growing terraces on the valley sides. This was massive engineering particularly because they built canals to supply water to the terraces sometimes from miles away.

Around these terraces the Inca built strongholds and storage facilities as well as housing of course. The very highest points were used to locate burial chambers for the nobility. Burials were in the form of mummification but in the embryonic position to help in the new after life. Unfortunately the Spanish found these tombs and pillaged and destroyed just about every thing.

I visited three wonderful sites in the Sacred Valley - Pisac, Calca and Ollantaytambo as well as Chinchero an important Inca trail cross roads town at 12340 feet.

I incorporate some photos of the Sacred Valley of the Inca.

First view of the Inca Sacred Valley

Pisac

A closer view of the terraces. Major construction. Watererd by underground canals. Each terrace has its own micro climate producing a flow of crops at different times.

The massive terraces at Ollantaytambo

The store houses at Ollantaytambo and Inca profile.

Precision stonework. Softish granite shaped by hand  with a harder rock tools - haematite. The rocks are split by drilling holes, hammering in wooden pegs and adding water to make them swell.

The massive rocks at the top of Ollantaytambo were hauled from a quarry over the mountains 8 miles away using ropes, ramps, logs as rollers, lama fat and up to 2000 people at a time. A monumental effort. Stonehenge on a bigger scale perhaps.

At Chinchero. A woman of Inca decent demonstrates dying Alpaca wool using natural dyes like cochineal! 





#SouthAmerica Cusco Peru

I am now in Cusco - a city of 400k - famous because it was the Inca capital - now a UNESCO world heritage site. Cusco stands at 3400m 11150 feet - so high. There is chill in the air despite the sun. It is easy to become breathless walking up the hills. Cusco has a really lovely feel about it.

I am in Cusco for a pause before starting the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu in 2 days time. This gives me the chance for some much needed altitude acclimatisation ( I am concerned it is not enough having just returned from the low jungle) and to do a day tour of the Inca Sacred Valley.

I am going to write a lot about the Incas in my next blog. However a very quick summary of Cusco - as I have said it was the Inca capital - where the Inca royal family and nobility lived and from where they controlled their vast empire. Consequently there are many Inca sites. However when the Spanish invaders came to Cusco in 1532 they destroyed and robbed much of the Inca heritage and built in the Spanish style as a way of domination.

I attach a few photos :-

Basilica Menor de la Merced

Main St!

Magnificent Corte of Justice

Temple de Santo Dominigo built deliberately and subsequently rebuilt (earthquakes) on an Inca palace. See below

See the lower tier Inca foundations which have withstood the earth quakes.

Plaza de Armas the main square too in Inca time. Magnificent Statue of the Incas.

Cusco Cathedral started in 1559 and built on the Inca Temple Kiswarkancha

View of the main square - Plaza de Armas





Tuesday 28 April 2015

#Nepal

Right now l am on the Salkantay trek and get to see Machu Pichuu tomorrow. Despite this amazing prospect I feel desperately sad - sad for the people of Nepal. At the best of times life is hard for them and no one helps them much. For many life is brutal but despite this they are warm and friendly and wonderfully stoic and modest. What they are facing now is just tragically unfair. They deserve this less than perhaps any nation on earth. Heartfelt love and respect for the people of Nepal. May their Gods bless them and help them for once.

Post script. I have thought about my feelings regarding this tragedy some more. I feel some guilt. The trekking world should too. Why? We have abused the Nepalese - we have not REALLY helped them. Certainly the massive and growing trekking business brings in a lot of $ to this very poor country. There are hundreds of trekking companies competing for business ( many not actually Nepalese ). Ok. The average trekker treats the Nepalese porters kindly and maybe offers a well received tip. OK. But deep down we trekkers know what the Nepalese porters are being asked to do for us is unfair. They carry huge weights in rugged high altitude territory. They are generally barely adequately equipped. They are first up - last to eat - last to bed while we sit around and recover and relax. We actually exploit them although we convince ourselves we don't. The guilt is made worse by the fact they are so obliging and willing and nice. Thinking about the porters now. What desperate situation might they be in. We need to do much better by them and for them.

Thursday 23 April 2015

#South America Part 3


Yesterday I flew from Lima to Puerto Maldonado a principal town in the Madre De Dios region. It is set along side the Madre de Dios river in the Amazon Basin. This is the lowland part of Peru and in the tropical rain forest belt - the jungle. I had booked to stay at the Corto Maldes Lodge accessable only by boat. To be truthful I hadn't studied this part of my visit in great detail because I was focused on Machu Picchu but it was something the tour operator SAS made a good case for. I was surprised to encounter quite a luxurious place - wonderful thatched wooden lodges, beautiful tropical gardens and a swimming pool. As you would expect the heat was high as was the humidity and there were plenty of mosquitoes but apparently no malaria - fingers crossed!

I was met by my guide - Youmi - aged 29 - quiet and thoughtful and a confused Christian! We spent time Cayman spotting at night on the river, trekking in the National Reservation Tambopata and canoeing on the stunningly tranquil oxbow lake - Lake Sandoval. We jungled walked and spent time on the top of a 42m spotting hide attached to one massive tree. It allowed us to be in the tree canopy to watch Toucans and Howler monkeys - amazing.

Although my stay was relatively short we crammed a lot in and I had some really worthwhile conversations with Youmi.

There is so much I could set down but here are a few random items ;-

  • Preservation of the Amazon rain forest is complex - there are never simple answers. For instance the Peruvian government gave land to the indigenous tribes in order to protect their way of life - only for them to do a deal with gold prospectors. Gold is gained by power hosing the the soil to form a slurry and using mercury! It is highly destructive and toxic of course.
  • Youmi was brought up with the bible. He has also been brought up with nature and he spent the majority of our time explaining how plants and animals adapted to survive and flourish. I asked him about evolution. He understood the theories. He was genuinely challenged by the conflict. I asked him which he believed - he said both - but perhaps the bible more.
  • He had no real idea about Muslim's and the turmoil the world was in.
  • Several people told me they were very disappointed by their president and his all powerful wife. Little has been done despite promises to help the poor. They love Brazil - because Brazil has really helped Peru with infrastructure projects. Brazil obviously are creating markets for their own economy as a result.
  • He told me two stories with different outcomes. He showed me a rubber tree - I have picked off some latex. He explained in the early days this was a huge business for Peru but the people were exploited by the foreign rubber traders. Eventually the Peruvian workers went on strike - so foreign workers were brought in. There was a small war - Peru won but the rubber traders took young trees and planted them in Malaysia. End of Peru's rubber business. Where does rubber come from now in the main? The other story involves Brazil nuts and has a happier outcome. Brazil nut trees were taken to other countries and grew but they would produce no nuts. The reason - Brazil nuts are pollinated by a particular large bee that can stand the bitter Brazil nut pollen. Those bees are only found in the Amazon basin!
  • Tarantulas are meat eating but they have no teeth = just the fangs to insert a toxin mix. The toxins are so strong flesh can become a sort of soup in just a few minutes. Tarantulas drink their meat.
I have many photographs on my camera of plants and animals but I cannot down load them. I have used ones from my phone for now.

Entrance Corto Maldes Lodge

My amazing lodge

Madre de Rios

We have sparrows!

Literally a walking tree.

Looking down from the canopy hide.









Puerto Maldonado market. Tappiocca top right. Ate it peeled boiled and fried

More range than us. Favourite is guinea pig.

Fish on the menu a lot. All river of course. Apparently these are of the piranha family.

Monday 20 April 2015

#SouthAmerica 20th May 2015

First update. Arrived Lima via Madrid. Flew with Iberia. Functional - no frills - food modest - a shame on long haul. However the flights were trouble free and I had window seats throughout. The flight from Madrid was 11 and half hours. I got all my paperwork in order, slept a lot, listened to some really  enjoyable music described as relaxing - a real find. Some of the artists names Jens Bushert and Aphex Twin. Also ploughing through Al Gore 's The Future - heavy going at times but a must read I am sure. He says it is an optimistic book!

I had (to use a modern term) a bit of a wow moment gazing out of the window about 2 hours from landing. Leading up to this trip I will admit to feeling a bit anxious - pondering on why I was doing it. South America can be a full on place, I have no Spanish apart from a dictionary and I am travelling alone. I was looking down on these individual brilliant white, meringue like clouds with massive flat bases thinking I will shortly be in Lima Peru, tomorrow  the Amazon basin and yes I thought wow. I thought how lucky I am to be able to do it and patted myself on the back for making it happen -actually quite an emotional moment. So that was the wow. I will carry it with me now!

Tomorrow morning early I take an internal flight to Puerto Maldonado to stay in a lodge and sleep in a hammock. It is in the Amazon basin and they promise something special over the next few days including 2 1/2 metre fish, piranhas, as well as monkey's, parrots etc. There is  long trek and several canoe trips including in the dark so a lot to look forward to.

I attach a couple of photographs - I have been on a plane all day so what did you expect! We were chasing the sun all day so plenty of day light.


A fine clear day approaching Madrid

Turbulence 1 hour out of Lima

Low over Lima early evening. Pilot skirted the Pacific  Coast  and the Andes in the background. 


Friday 17 April 2015

#SouthAmerica

I have been to the USA and had a lovely holiday in Costa Rica - but I have never been to South America. In less than 48 hours I fly to Lima, Peru for 2 weeks of organised trekking including 3 days in the upper Amazon and then treks to Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca. After that I am backpacking under my own steam to La Paz in Bolivia, onwards to Chile to spend some time in the Atacama desert. My route will then take me across to Buenos Aires in Argentina, Uruguay, Iguazu Falls on the borders of Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil and then up to Rio for some beach sun I hope. In total it will be about 6 weeks. This is my first posting. I hope to be able to blog while I am away with updates. Here is fingers crossed - excited but a bit daunted too I have to admit!

#Everest Base Camp Trek via Gokyo Valley - PART 2

I posted PART 1 on 12/10/14 below. It set out what I planned to do. It was my intention to write a full blog of my experiences now I have done it. I have just realised today when I am trying to tidy up my blog site before I head off for another trip - horror of horrors - I have not written or posted it! This is incredible as it was such a memorable and worthwhile trek.

I do not have the time to write the account now - I shall have to do it some time later. Suffice to say I did everything I set out to do. The trek was hard - very hard at times - particularly Gokyo Ri, The Chola Pass and particularly Kala Pattar to see sun rise on Everest. I loved Nepal too - mad Kathmandu and the travel down to Chitwan. I will describe it later. For now just a few photographs.
On the way up


The Hilary bridge

First view of Everest
Gokyo Lakes


Proud moment on the top of Gokyo Ri



Magical - sunset on Everest from the top of Gokyo Ri. Privileged to see it.

Top of the Chola Pass - what a moment.
Getting down from the highest point of the Chola Pass


So weary - so slippery off Chola - Everest we are coming.


Everest Base Camp


The way up Everest - not the climbing season now.


The hardest and best bit. Top of  Kala Pathar to see the sun come up on Everest - a joyful tearful moment. A real test for an old man !

On the way down - the colours are real.

Hilary Bridge on the way down.


Finished at Lukla. Amazing.


Chitwan National Park in the south of Nepal


A working elephant at Chitwan




#ParisMarathon 2015

We have just got back from a long weekend in Paris - a memorable emotional weekend.

The Paris Marathon is a superb marathon event - 54000 runners - massive. It is run over a brilliant course - starts on the Champs-Elysees past Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower and finishes under the Arc de Triomphe. It is fantastically supported with allez allez allez the call and many lively bands help keeping the runners tempo up.

We all entered this marathon over a year ago. My three sons trained so hard. Son George is a more experienced runner and set himself the holly grail target - a marathon under 3 hours. James and Richard put the miles in too. Me - I did a half marathon earlier in the year. I realised pushing my knees twice as far was unrealistic and silly. However I will admit the decision not to prepare for Paris was a hard one - felt in some ways like failure - but head wins over heart most of the time.

It left me and George's partner Laura to a support, photographer and spectator role - a role we were very happy to fulfil to support the boys.

We drove to Paris via the Dover Calais ferry, parked up at Versailles and travelled into Paris centre by the excellent and cheap Paris Metro. We had rented a lovely apartment for 4 nights in the area of Sentier - so we could walk to the start.

Friday night was relatively normal. We ate out - George had a beer - but tension in the air. Saturday we went to the Marathon Expo. A huge event. The scale left you in no doubt how big the Paris event was and how big extreme running is. There were masses of stalls - lured by many. The Beaujolais Marathon - free wine and pate - the Swiss Marathon - free wine and cheese!

Saturday night dinner in. Pasta. I am going to load a family video here. It is a bit intrusive but it does everyone credit and it gives an insight into the mood.

http://youtu.be/65k1NQkq2g4

Sunday morning - the boys were up early and well prepared. We walked the 20 minutes to the start. The start was staggered - even George's category were let away in stages. James started 50 minutes after George = based on pens determined by estimated finishing times.

Laura and I rushed to the 5 mile mark by metro. The numbers passing were massive and eye boggling. The brass band were fantastic. Eventually we picked out George. He seemed behind schedule but at that time we did not know about the staggered starts. He seemed to be grimacing - not running freely - ominous and upsetting given there is so little margin of error when trying to run even clocked miles. We missed Rich - we discovered he was bombing along later - caught up in the euphoria.

Laura and I then ran down to the metro again. Off to the 20 mile point where we thought they might need the most encouragement and in the knowledge that the finish area would be difficult to access. We got a great view. George came past. He was on time. He was grim faced but smiled. He is gone in a moment. Very emotional. I had tears in my eyes from relief it was going well after all. Laura headed off to try to get to the finish in time. I stayed for Rich and James. Rich came through. He spotted me - not me spotted him. I thought he looked ok - but the reality - he later suffered from desperate cramp and was helped while on the ground with foot stretches by another runner. James came through - he was doing well. I shouted just 5 more miles thinking that would help. He told me afterwards it had the opposite effect!

Eventually we meet up after the chaos of the finish. All the boys are tired of course but the euphoria can offset that. George a fantastic 2.57. Mission accomplished. Rich a fantastic 4.0-37. James a wonderful 4.25. It makes me tearful now just writing it. 3 brothers each so different - but what a moment.

The rest of the weekend - chatter, pain, humour, brilliant food - expensive beer - the Eiffel Tower and a cruise on the Seine. Facebook I have to admit added a lot too. The boys put a massive amount in as every marathon runner does. We all took a massive amount out. Wonderful.


Tension before the start



Chilly at the finish


Amazingly proud bonded moments


Despite 26 miles James is ready for a night out.



Euphoria means they can stride to dinner in Sentier



Next day - lunch near Eiffel

Eiffel - big queues for the lift. The boys walk the 600 + plus steps to the second level to save time!



Notre Dame by boat.

Great view of Eiffel from the river boat

Proud dad. Missing daughter Vic, Phil and the girls! Next time. xxxx

We dine out in style

The local paper has the news - thank you coach Geoff Watkin