Friday 17 April 2015

#Turkey


For the second time in a year I have headed for Turkey. The first time was to participate in the Istanbul Marathon event (15k run for me) and only a short trip. This time it was for a 3 week out of season holiday.
Turkey has very much been in the news. A number of people expressed surprise that we chose to go to Turkey at this time. However I judged that Istanbul might not be much more susceptible to a  suicide bombing than London and we were not going substantially to the East or South East  – because of its borders with Syria particularly and Iraq. Turkey has been fighting in Syria and has a massively complex problem with nationalistic Kurds. Its northern border on the Black Sea faces Russia and Ukraine and the Bosporus is the vital sea link between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea. Therefore Turkey is strategically crucially important for so many reasons – a country with part in Europe, but substantially in Asia.

Turkey while still a secular society  is predominantly Muslim (80%). While a lot of Muslims may not be fundamentalists or even practising there is evidently greater and greater pressure for an Islamic agenda. The government is very unpopular with many secular Turks but they refer to it in quiet voices and a degree of unease because the government have a reputation for being draconian and Turkey has a poor record when it comes to human rights. Schools are becoming more Islamic, there are many more mosques being built, and contracts are being won by "Islamic" companies.

Having said all of that Turkey has been modernising and has a big and diversified economy. It is a significant exporter not just of food products but including manufactures', electrical goods and financial services 

However we went to Turkey for a holiday, relaxation and some winter sun and a change of food. (it is also very cheap out of season although alcohol is now taxed very heavily.)

We spent time in Istanbul - a great city and then moved south to stay at Gulluk and then Dalyan.

Turkish men are very evident - invariably dressed in black, black hair, black stubble - they can look a bit scary. They are a bit subdued possibly - but when you engage with them they are super friendly, warm and will laugh readily. Women are less in evidence and more reticent unless in their own homes.

The land is rugged (80% is uninhabitable) - often beautiful but also often blighted by what seems to chaotic and rushed holiday developments of which there are many. The area around Bodrum is a classic example.

The land of Turkey has been part of the centre of the universe for human kind for centuries - not least with the Ottomans. Historic sights are everywhere. Commonplace. Perhaps because there are so many they are not always as carefully presented as they would be in some countries.

Food is wonderful - varied, interesting and cheap. Brilliant vegetables. A major tip - eat with the locals in Locanta's. Fantastic. 

I attach some photos. Please go to Turkey out of season. It is a great place to go if you want to avoid the crowds and mega heat - and get great value for money.

Bought our dinner - Gulluk


A Greek island from the Bodrum coast

Every town has a weekly market





Treking is hard in Turkey. We got to the top!


Milas

We were invited in for tea



4th century temple tombs over Dalyan



around Dalyan


rugged



a big cavern



Iztuzu beach - famous for loggerhead turtles







4th century tombs


Aya Sofia - main mosque Istanbul

Dalyan Cayi (river) - must be very busy in the summer

a Locanta Milas


Bream - great value


 

Local mosque Dalyan 




 
A big hill in the cycle Dalyan to Iztuzu


 
Small farms everywhere

Lamb speared by a minaret

A small museum remembering nomadic peoples called "Yoruk"

tea with the curator - a very proud yoruk



Ruins of Kaunos - an ancient city














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