For the second time in a year I have headed for Turkey. The
first time was to participate in the Istanbul Marathon event (15k run for me)
and only a short trip. This time it was for a 3 week out of season holiday.
Turkey has very much been in the news. A number of people
expressed surprise that we chose to go to Turkey at this time. However I judged
that Istanbul might not be much more susceptible to a suicide bombing than London
and we were not going substantially to the East or South East – because of its
borders with Syria particularly and Iraq. Turkey has been fighting in Syria and has a
massively complex problem with nationalistic Kurds. Its northern border on the
Black Sea faces Russia and Ukraine and the Bosporus is the vital sea link
between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea. Therefore Turkey is strategically crucially important
for so many reasons – a country with part in Europe, but substantially in Asia.
Turkey while still a secular society is predominantly
Muslim (80%). While a lot of Muslims may not be fundamentalists or even practising
there is evidently greater and greater pressure for an Islamic agenda. The government is very unpopular with many secular Turks but they refer to it in quiet voices and a degree of unease because the government have a reputation for being draconian and Turkey has a poor record when it comes to human rights. Schools are becoming more Islamic, there are many more mosques being built, and contracts are being won by "Islamic" companies.
Having said all of that Turkey has been modernising and has a big and diversified economy. It is a significant exporter not just of food products but including manufactures', electrical goods and financial services
However we went to Turkey for a holiday, relaxation and some winter sun and a change of food. (it is also very cheap out of season although alcohol is now taxed very heavily.)
We spent time in Istanbul - a great city and then moved south to stay at Gulluk and then Dalyan.
Turkish men are very evident - invariably dressed in black, black hair, black stubble - they can look a bit scary. They are a bit subdued possibly - but when you engage with them they are super friendly, warm and will laugh readily. Women are less in evidence and more reticent unless in their own homes.
The land is rugged (80% is uninhabitable) - often beautiful but also often blighted by what seems to chaotic and rushed holiday developments of which there are many. The area around Bodrum is a classic example.
The land of Turkey has been part of the centre of the universe for human kind for centuries - not least with the Ottomans. Historic sights are everywhere. Commonplace. Perhaps because there are so many they are not always as carefully presented as they would be in some countries.
Food is wonderful - varied, interesting and cheap. Brilliant vegetables. A major tip - eat with the locals in Locanta's. Fantastic.
I attach some photos. Please go to Turkey out of season. It is a great place to go if you want to avoid the crowds and mega heat - and get great value for money.
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Bought our dinner - Gulluk |
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A Greek island from the Bodrum coast |
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Every town has a weekly market |
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Treking is hard in Turkey. We got to the top! |
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Milas |
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We were invited in for tea |
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4th century temple tombs over Dalyan |
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around Dalyan |
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rugged |
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a big cavern |
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Iztuzu beach - famous for loggerhead turtles |
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4th century tombs |
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Aya Sofia - main mosque Istanbul |
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Dalyan Cayi (river) - must be very busy in the summer |
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a Locanta Milas |
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Bream - great value |
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Local mosque Dalyan |
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A big hill in the cycle Dalyan to Iztuzu |
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Small farms everywhere |
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Lamb speared by a minaret |
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A small museum remembering nomadic peoples called "Yoruk" |
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tea with the curator - a very proud yoruk |
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Ruins of Kaunos - an ancient city |
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