David Shoulder - Isle of Wight: April 2023

My visit to Israel had sight seeing as its main rationale. Most of Israel's "sights" have a religious significance. True I am not a religious person - so why bother? My explanation is this I think. Although I mainly had a secular upbringing I attended Sunday School when I was young and most families lives in the UK are underpinned by Christian festivals - particularly Christmas and Easter. I have fond memories of the nativity story definitely and the Easter crucifixion/resurrection story etc. In my minds eye I can remember my early learning books with colourful pictures of the nativity scene, the wise men, the shepherd's etc following the star to the stable in Bethlehem and of course our Christmas carols. Bluntly although I am an atheist (because that is the only logical objective conclusion possible for me) the bible means something to me - and it gave me pleasure visiting the places so often referred to in my childhood. In fact quite amazing that I have now been to them.

So Bethlehem. Bethlehem is now not the place in the story books. It is a small city - population about 25000. It is in the "West Bank" an Arab dominated area but now part of Israel (since 1967). It is located in the Judea Mountains - stands at 2500 feet above sea level and is extremely hilly. To be brutal it is not a particularly attractive place - a touch run down - a lot of vehicles - a lot of tourist related outlets. It's main income is generated by tourism which is no surprise.

On this day I was one of many tourists / pilgrims making a day visit. Our guide is a Christian born and brought up in Bethlehem. She welcomes us and considers we are helping support Christians - once in the majority in Bethlehem but now a diminishing minority since 1967.

First stop Shepherds Field (Franciscan). This is where the Shepherds were living in the nativity story.- saw the star showing where Jesus was born. We visited the Franciscan Church built on a site of caves (Grotto) where the said shepherds lived. They were the first people to know of Jesus's birth. Some claim certainty with these things - our guide said while this might not be the actual spot - something definitely happened in this vicinity. Make of that what you will.

It is then onto Manger Square. Like all the other tourist buses we have to park in the bus station and then walk up the steep hill. The street is full of shops more or less selling the same things - all nativity related. It is tacky.

Manger Square is a hive of activity but everyone is on foot. It is quite a complex place - our guide explained. We see the Church of the Nativity. Enshrined by it is the Grotto of the Nativity. The Grotto has been enshrined by a church on the site since the 4th century. According to Christian tradition the grotto is where Jesus was born.

Grotto of the Nativity - the star represents where many believe Jesus was born.

We join the 3 hour queue to get down to the Grotto. There are tour guides jostling everywhere - people being moved around. Eventually our Palestinian ( and Christian guide who was born and brought up in Bethlehem) takes us out of the queue - we surreptitiously remove our tour badges - and follow her in a small group across the church and through a door marked no entry. A lot of whispering between officials - but after 10 minutes we are given leave in groups of 3 to descend into the Grotto. (we are able to take photos). There is an official there - he tells us to be quick. We file around. I touch the manager (although it is acknowledge the original is in the Vatican) and then the moment - so important the the millions of believers that have visited this place - I kneel to touch the gold star that signifies the spot where Jesus is claimed to have been born. I am of course very respectful even though I am not a believer. Why did I do it? It might seem shallow - but because I could. I find that amazing in the context of looking back on my childhood and those little Nativity plays. (How we got down there so quickly - I do not know - but there is no doubt we pushed in and that cannot be right. I am sure it is commonplace). Adjoining is the Church of St Catherine - a more modern Roman Catholic Church - but still very old. This is where the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem leads a Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve to be televised around the world.

I am glad I went there.

Bethlehem is in the West Bank

Field of the Shepherds

The cave where the shepherds stayed to watch over their sheep.

Bethlehem

Entrance to the Church of The Nativity off Manger Square

the Manger in the grotto where Jesus was born !

the spot where Jesus is said to be born. You had to kneel and touch the star!

Nazareth

After my stay in Jerusalem I travelled by bus - public transport - to Tiberius on The Sea of Galilee - Northern Israel. This meant I traversed virtually the whole length of The West Bank and why checkpoints were so evident. When we left the West Bank - our bus was searched - 2 (young) armed IDF - Israeli Defence Force officers came through. One or two were questioned including me. They were charming. Called me David - but it is not a place to mess around.

Before I write about the Sea of Galillee - I visited Nazareth under my own steam. Why did I go ? - well its the start of the story. Jesus of Nazareth - where Joseph lived with Mary and went by donkey to Bethlehem. First thought - that is a very long journey on a donkey (for a census) !

What about Nazareth - well it is a city - the largest in N, Israel. Like Bethlehem further south it is not a quaint white walled village. It has a population of about 80K and what makes it standout is it is known as the Arab capital of Israel as 69% of its citizens are Muslims and just about all the rest are Christians. They live peaceably and could be a model maybe. Like Bethlehem it is hilly.

Nazareth has a long and complex history. It has become a centre of Christian Pilgrimage with many shrines commemorating biblical events. I wandered through the narrow streets in the old town. It has an Arab feel - interesting - colourful - less focused on the tourist trade than Bethlehem. I visit the Church of Annunciation- one of the largest Christian sites of worship in the Middle East. The church covers the "Grotto of the Annunciation" where according to Catholic tradition Angel Gabriel appeared to Mary to announce that she would conceive and bear Jesus. There was a service going on in the church when I visited - I have no idea what the priests were saying but it was very atmospheric.

As the largest Arab city in Israel, Nazareth is today a cultural, political, religious, economic and commercial centre of the Arab citizens of Israel. I have read that many West Bank and Gaza Palestinians find it hard and frustrating to understand how Nazareth Arabs seem reasonably content.

In many ways Nazareth looks and feels like an ordinary place - beset by the same pressures of modern living - but it has a remarkable history.

The Church and grotto of the Annunciation

Nazareth from my bus stop

SEA OF GALILEE

For my last few days in Israel I based myself at Tiberius on the Sea of Galilee - this is northern Israel - much more hilly - more rainfall - a horticulture area. One amazing thing about Israel is it is a net exporter of horticulture products.

( Israel is one of the world's leading fresh citrus producers and exporters including oranges, grapefruit and tangerines. More than forty types of fruit are grown in Israel. In addition to citrus, these include avocados, bananas, apples, olives, cherries, figs, plums, nectarines, grapes, dates, strawberries, prickly pear (tzabbar), persimmon, loquat and pomegranates. Israel is the second leading producer of loquat after Japan. Almond is also grown.

In 1973, two Israeli scientists, Haim Rabinowitch and Nachum Kedar, developed a variety of tomato with slower ripening than ordinary tomatoes in a hot climate. Their research led to the development of the world's first long shelf-life commercial tomato varieties.This discovery transformed agricultural economics in Israel, promoting the export of the vegetables seeds and the move to high-tech farming.^] It also had a global impact, enabling large-scale production through the prevention of spoilage. Previously, farmers were forced to discard 40 percent of their produce.)

I am running out of time a bit so I have downloaded a description of the Sea of Galilee

The Sea of Galilee also called Lake Tiberias or Kinneret, is a freshwater lake in Israel. It is the lowest freshwater lake on Earth and the second-lowest lake in the world (after the Dead Sea, a saltwater lake), at levels between 215 metres (705 ft) and 209 metres (686 ft) below sea level. It is approximately 53 km (33 mi) in circumference, about 21 km (13 mi) long, and 13 km (8.1 mi) wide. Its area is 166.7 km² (64.4 sq mi) at its fullest, and its maximum depth is approximately 43 metres (141 ft).^[5] The lake is fed partly by underground springs, but its main source is the Jordan River, which flows through it from north to south and exits the lake at the Degania Dam.

Geography

Sea of Galilee in relation to the Dead Sea

The Sea of Galilee is situated in northeast Israel, between the Golan Heights and the Galilee region, in the Jordan Rift Valley, the valley caused by the separation of the African and Arabian plates. Consequently, the area is subject to earthquakes, and in the past, volcanic activity. This is evident from the abundant basalt and other igneous rocks that define the geology of Galilee.

In the New Testament, much of the ministry of Jesus occurs on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. In those days, there was a continuous ribbon development of settlements and villages around the lake and plenty of trade and ferrying by boat. The Synoptic Gospels of Mark 1:14–20), Matthew 4:18–22), and Luke 5:1–11) describe how Jesus recruited four of his apostles from the shores of the Kinneret: the fishermen Simon and his brother Andrew and the brothers John and James. One of Jesus' famous teaching episodes, the Sermon on the Mount, is supposed to have been given on a hill overlooking the Kinneret. Many of his miracles are also said to have occurred here including his walking on water, calming the storm, the disciples and the miraculous catch of fish, and his feeding five thousand people (in Tabgha). In John's Gospel the sea provides the setting for Jesus' third post-resurrection appearance to his disciples (John 21)

My initial take on Tiberius was it was a bit of a run down tourist town - but this would be harsh. It was out of season and mostly overcast while I was there but it is a real place. I had a nice room overlooking the Sea and I enjoyed the cafe culture ha! - dined out everyday on pitta bread, hummus, falafels and salad - ( so good and so cheap ). I used public transport to get around. The buses are frequent - have many routes and are cheap to use. Consequently everyone uses them. It is a simple formula! I talked to a lot of people while I was there - including a fascinating conversation about Brexit between me, a Polish lady who was a London bus driver and been in the UK for 15 years and a married couple from Slovenia who where scientists - physicists. The Polish bus driver voted for Brexit. She believes Poland will definitely leave the EU - and cannot stand how Germany/France (the EU) are interfering in Polish life. The Slovenians were dismayed. They believe the most important thing is securing Slovenia's fragile democracy with the support of the EU. They were incredulous and yes - dismayed - when I explained that many people in the UK voted to leave the EU to secure our democracy (as the EU is undemocratic!). One of the benefits of travel I guess!

I have previously written about the rift valley I am in - David Shoulder - Isle of Wight: #Jordan Dana to Petra - Wadi Rum - The Dead Sea (davidshoulder60onwards.blogspot.com)

It is an extraordinary geographical area. It is certainly true the mighty River Jordan no longer flows mighty. I crossed over it several times on the way to Tiberius.