For many years I have had it in mind to visit Petra - from seeing pictures of the lost city carved into sandstone cliffs. Petra is in Jordan - which I knew little about accept it was in the Middle East and their late King Hussein was a great friend of the UK. Over the years I have read more about Jordan and eventually pieced together a trip with my brother Mike where the culmination was to visit Petra. Over recent years Jordan has emerged as a trekking destination and as that is something we like to do we were able to combine them both.
Just a few basics about Jordan :
Slightly smaller in area than the country of Portugal, Jordan is bounded to the north by Syria, to the east by Iraq, to the southeast and south by Saudi Arabia, and to the west by Israel and the West Bank. The West Bank area (so named because it lies just west of the Jordan River) was under Jordanian rule from 1948 to 1967, but in 1988 Jordan renounced its claims to the area. Jordan has 16 miles (26 km) of coastline on the Gulf of Aqaba in the southwest, where Al-ÊżAqabah, its only port, is located.
There is a lot I could write about Jordan because it is a fascinating place but for speed and accuracy I attach this link - Jordan - Resources and power | Britannica .
The main focus for our visit was a trek over 5 days from Dana to Petra. We had a guide - Motaz - a donkey with his handler Ali ( a Bedouin) and a remote back up team that set up our tented camp each night and prepared our dinner.
Our trek went through the beautiful and stunning Dana Biosphere Reserve. This is the technical explanation of the geology :
Dana Biosphere Reserve drops from an altitude of 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) on the Qadisiyah plateau to the low-lying desert area of Wadi Araba.The varied geology of Dana contains limestone, sandstone, and granite. The area of Wadi Dana features wind-cut sandstone cliffs. Dana is the only nature reserve in Jordan that crosses four bio-geographical zones; Mediterranean, Irano-Turanian, Saharo-Arabian, and Sudanian penetration.
Dana's unique landscape is formed by an outcrop (exposed bedrock) of fluvial sandstone, dating back to the Paleozoic and Lower Cretaceous. It is also covered by shallow marine carbonate rocks from the Upper Cretaceous and Tertiary period. The area around Dana is further characterized by a horst (called the Dana Horst) formed by two faults running from East to West, which are the Salawan fault and the Dana fault. The Horst contains Precambrian Granitoids and volcanic rocks in contact with Cretaceous rocks. The origin of this basaltic formation is believed to be from two distinct volcanic eruptions: the first dating back to somewhere between the Miocene and Pleistocene, while the second is a highly recent eruption of the nearby Jabal Al-Qadisyah.
I could write about our trek but actually pretty much everything I want to say is said in the photographs below. It was truly magnificent scenery to walk through. It was hard but not too hard - and no altitude issues to deal with. The weather was hot during the day and cold at night but they were not extremes as we were late autumn. For 5 days we literally saw no one else. No other trekkers - no vehicles - no nothing but just us and sight of the occasional Bedouin goatherd in the distance. Summer heat would be extreme and the winter season is avoided for trekking because of flash flooding which can be very dangerous if you were caught in the maze of sculptured gullies that make up so much of the terrain.
Eventually we descend down and then up a complex path into the back of Little Petra. We enter through a narrow gully staircase that has been opened up as a back door but didn't exist in Nabatean times. It was at Little Petra we first saw buildings carved into the sandstone canyons. I really felt like we were explorers entering a lost world. It was amazing really. It was a shock to see some tourists as we made our way down towards their entrance.
Next day we walk the 7k into Petra itself. Not an easy walk - but we avoid the tourist route through the back door.
A bit about the history of Petra from Wikipaedia :
Petra is a historic and archaeological city in southern Jordan. It is adjacent to the mountain of Jabal Al-Madbah, in a basin surrounded by mountains forming the eastern flank of the Arabah valley running from the Dead Sea to the Gulf of Aqaba.The area around Petra has been inhabited from as early as 7000 BC and the Nabataeans might have settled in what would become the capital city of their kingdom as early as the 4th century BC. Archaeological work has only discovered evidence of Nabataean presence dating back to the second century BC, by which time Petra had become their capital. The Nabataeans were nomadic Arabs who invested in Petra's proximity to the incense trade routes by establishing it as a major regional trading hub.
The trading business gained the Nabataeans considerable revenue and Petra became the focus of their wealth. The Nabataeans were accustomed to living in the barren deserts, unlike their enemies, and were able to repel attacks by taking advantage of the area's mountainous terrain. They were particularly skilful in harvesting rainwater, agriculture and stone carving. Petra flourished in the 1st century AD, when its Al-Khazneh structure – believed to be the mausoleum of Nabataean king Aretas IV – was constructed, and its population peaked at an estimated 20,000 inhabitants.
Although the Nabataean kingdom became a client state of the Roman Empire in the first century BC, it was only in 106 AD that it lost its independence. Petra fell to the Romans, who annexed Nabataea and renamed it as Arabia Petraea. Petra's importance declined as sea trade routes emerged, and after an earthquake in 363 destroyed many structures. In the Byzantine era several Christian churches were built, but the city continued to decline, and by the early Islamic era it was abandoned except for a handful of nomads. It remained unknown until it was rediscovered in 1812 by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt.
Access to the city is through a 1.2-kilometre-long (3⁄4 mi) gorge called the Siq, which leads directly to the Khazneh. Famous for its rock-cut architecture and water conduit system, Petra is also called the "Rose City" because of the colour of the stone from which it is carved. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. UNESCO has described Petra as "one of the most precious cultural properties of man's cultural heritage". In 2007, Al-Khazneh was voted one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. Petra is a symbol of Jordan, as well as Jordan's most-visited tourist attraction. Tourist numbers peaked at 1.1 million in 2019, marking the first time that the figure rose above the 1 million mark. Tourism in the city was crippled by the COVID-19 pandemic, but soon after started to pick up again, reaching 260,000 visitors in 2021.
Writers identify Petra as the capital of the Nabataean Kingdom and the centre of their caravan trade. Enclosed by towering rocks and watered by a perennial stream, Petra not only possessed the advantages of a fortress, but controlled the main commercial routes which passed through it to Gaza in the west, to Bosra and Damascus in the north, to Aqaba and Leuce Come on the Red Sea, and across the desert to the Persian Gulf.
Excavations have demonstrated that it was the ability of the Nabataeans to control the water supply that led to the rise of the desert city, creating an artificial oasis. The area is visited by flash floods, but archaeological evidence shows that the Nabataeans controlled these floods by the use of dams, cisterns, and water conduits. These innovations stored water for prolonged periods of drought and enabled the city to prosper from its sale.
In summary Petra was a naturally fortified oasis created by an ancient culture called the Nabataeans. Petra was the vital link in the trade routes supplying much prized frankincense and myrrh and many other valuable commodities in trade that flourished between Egypt, The Persian Gulf countries and Mediterranean countries. For a while the Nabataeans became extremely wealthy, and this is evidenced by the scale and sophistication of Petra.
Petra is a massive tourist draw but the vast majority enter through the Siq (which is spectacular). However once again we entered through the back door to see the Monastery first. Eventually we proceeded down the 850 steps to Petra proper and exited through the Siq after spending time at Petra's most famous and best-preserved sandstone facade and building which is the Treasury. Petra is spectacular but so much more is added when you know something about its development. The way to do it is the way we did it - but it will take some effort. I am so glad and privileged to have been able to fulfil this ambition.
After Petra we headed down by mini bus to Wadi Rum - Wadi Rum of Lawrence of Arabia fame. We spent 1 night in a "Bedouin" camp. To be honest it was westernised but took nothing away from the natural scenery - the spectacular beauty of Wadi Rum. It is a geological extravaganza. Here is some info about Wadi Rum from Wicki:
Wadi Rum known also as the Valley of the Moon is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan 60 km (37 mi) to the east of Aqaba; it is the largest wadi in Jordan.
Wadi Rum has been inhabited by many human cultures since prehistoric times, with many cultures–including the Nabataeans–leaving their mark in the form of petroglyphs, inscriptions, and temple. In the West, Wadi Rum may be best known for its connection with British officer T. E. Lawrence, who passed through several times during the Arab Revolt of 1917–18.In the 1980s one of the rock formations in Wadi Rum, originally known as "Jabal al-Mazmar" (The Mountain of (the) Plague), was named "The Seven Pillars of Wisdom," after Lawrence's book penned in the aftermath of the war, though the 'Seven Pillars' referred to in the book have no connection with Rum.
Lawrence described his entrance into the Valley of Rumm: "The hills on the right grew taller and sharper, a fair counterpart of the other side which straightened itself to one massive rampart of redness. They drew together until only two miles divided them: and then, towering gradually till their parallel parapets must have been a thousand feet above us, ran forward in an avenue for miles. The crags were capped in nests of domes, less hotly red than the body of the hill; rather grey and shallow. They gave the finishing semblance of Byzantine architecture to this irresistible place: this processional way greater than imagination.
What is amazing about Wadi Rum is its geology. It is mainly of sandstone and sandstone is a sedimentary rock formed under water. These are the stages of the formation of Wadi Rum:
The formation of Wadi Rum took place in 6 significant stages:
Over 1 billion years ago the granite base stone was formed. These are observed in harder black and white rock exposed at the base of the sandstone cliffs in some locations.
The quartz sand deposits came from rivers that flowed from the south (modern day Egypt – prior to the emergence of the Red Sea rift), and occurred in 3 stages. All during and shortly after the Cambrian period 500 million years ago(mya). During the Cambrian period the planet had almost no permanent ice, with the highest sea levels in the planets history.
– Cambrian deposits of around 30 metres occurring around 530mya
– Ordovician and Silurian deposits of around 200 metres occurring between 485-420mya
Compaction compressed the sand into rock and fossilised the remnants of marine life.
Sea levels dropped (when the ice caps were formed) and subsequently the entire region including South-East Jordan, Western Saudi Arabia, South East Egypt and Sudan were uplifted from tectonic movement.
The Red Sea rift fractured, separating the Arabian peninsula from the African continent where most of the sediment originated.
We were fortunate to see a sunset in Wadi Rum and an amazing starlit desert sky. The scale is immense. Wadi Rum is as referred - of a moonscape. The light changes and shadows on the massive sandstone rocks and cliffs and the wide flat and then undulating desert are nothing other than extraordinary. What a place.
On our penultimate day we had a 5 hour drive back north to have a swim in The Dead Sea - the lowest place on earth. Again it is all about the geology and geography and it is fascinating. A while back I was in Sicily where volcanic activity was being caused by the African and European tectonic plates coming together. The Great Rift Valley/Red Sea Rift Valley/Jordan River Rift Valley is caused by the African and Arabian tectonic plates pulling apart.
The lake's surface is 430.5 metres (1,412 ft) below sea level, making its shores the lowest land-based elevation on Earth. It is 304 m (997 ft) deep, the deepest hypersaline lake in the world. With a salinity of 342 g/kg, or 34.2% (in 2011), it is one of the world's saltiest bodies of water – 9.6 times as salty as the ocean – and has a density of 1.24 kg/litre, which makes swimming similar to floating. This salinity makes for a harsh environment in which plants and animals cannot flourish, hence its name. The Dead Sea's main, northern basin is 50 kilometres (31 mi) long and 15 kilometres (9 mi) wide at its widest point.
Driving down to the Dead Sea was memorable - your vehicle brakes will be tested. We stopped at sea level on the way down but there was still 1300 ft to go to reach the shore. Of course the Dead Sea is not a sea - it is a lake fed from the north by the biblical River Jordan. The salt in the lake comes from years of evaporation and from rocks - formerly of the sea bed that contain rock salt (I think). The rift valley is not a small area - it is massive - but it is easy to see Israel across the other side. The valley the Dead Sea sits in is designated as desert but actually much is a horticulture area irrigated by fresh water from the River Jordan and other springs.
However as ever water is a massive issue for Jordan. The Dead Sea is being starved of water. The River Jordan rises on the Golan Heights - Israel and Syria. Both countries have dammed the river and take water for irrigation. Apparently the River Jordan has become not much more than a stream. The Dead Sea shoreline is retreating by a metre per year. There is an international movement to save the Dead Sea and provide water for irrigation by desalinisation. The Jordanians want to pipe water from the Red Sea - a long pipe but relatively simple because of course it is all down hill. However the Israelis want the pipe to come from the Mediterranean apparently - which will have to traverse mountainous areas - much more complex and costly. However it will give Israel control.
Here are some pictures of our trek into Little Petra
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| Mike taking in the scenery |
After the Dead Sea we headed back to the capital Amman for a beer - ha! Jordan is a dry country but you can get alcohol in some hotels but it is expensive. There are a few backstreet liquer stores and we found one with a very convivial speakeasy. However we were drinking cans of Petra beer - 10%. To be avoided. Next day we went to the Jordan Museum for a look around. Some of the world's earliest known civilisations occupied what is now Jordan.
Jordan was a great place to visit. The people of Jordan are not strident. They have a reputation for friendliness and hospitality. I think it is deserved. (they are providing shelter for over 2 million refugees - mainly from Palestine, Iraq and Syria.) Jordan is a force for tolerance and moderation in the Middle East. It's history, culture and geography and geology make it a special and unusual place to visit.
Here are some more photographs :
Petra
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| Our first sight of Petra - the Monastery |
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| The most famous Petra building - The Treasury |
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| The Treasury is so well preserved because it is sheltered from the wind. |
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| The Siq. The 3/4 mile narrow and only entrance to Petra in ancient times. |
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| Hidden Petra from outside looking down. |
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| A massive fort on the way to the Dead Sea |
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| The Dead Sea down in the distance |
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| Beware of Petra beer! |
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| Me and the landlord! |
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| One of the oldest human statues ever made by human civilization from 'Ain Ghazal on display at The Jordan Museum. Dating back to 7250 BC. We also were able to see some of the Dead Sea Scrolls but they were not allowed to be photographed. |
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| Mike and I - sunset over Wadi Rum |
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| A mud bath - The Dead Sea - makes you look younger! |
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