I have moved on for a stay in Cairns in north Queensland mainly because it is referred to as "the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef". The GBR is designated as one of the seven natural wonders of the world and ever since a child I thought it would be amazing experience to see it close up - but never thought I would. But I now have a chance and I have grabbed it and feel deeply appreciative.
First of all however a bit about Cairns. I have to say - a bit of an incongruous place. Why ? Well it is a resort town. The esplanade and a few streets back are quite commercial. Bars, fast food, restaurants and gift shops etc. (It is however well up together - neat and tidy.) Not what I expected - I expected a bit of wild frontier or a green outpost but no matter. Cairns is thriving as a city - a population of 150000. I have said this before about Darwin. I find it astonishing the population is so large because it just doesn't feel like it. I then realised Cairns is 32 km from north to south - so it is very spread out - low rise - large natural green areas - not densely populated. Cairns is the transport hub for the whole region including it's international airport.
The reason I came to Cairns and the reason most people come to Cairns is to see the Great Barrier Reef in some way and / or to spend time within the Daintree Tropical Rain Forest - the oldest - longest established in the world - older than the Amazon Rain Forest. Daintree is 135 million years old and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a short distance from Cairns.
I will start with the Great Barrier Reef. It is the largest coral reef system in the world. It is 2300km long and estimated to be made up of about 3000 coral reefs. It is located in the Coral Sea off the east coast of Queensland and roughly running parallel with the coast going north to south.
The reef is the home of an extraordinary variety of coral and fish and is ecologically very important. It is however fragile and under pressure because for the reef to survive is has quite specific requirements. It needs clean sea water and to be undisturbed. Sun light is crucial too. Parts of the reef have suffered regression because the sea has become too warm and caused bleaching - kills the reef. This is put down to global warming.
How and why did the reef get established where it is ? My rough understanding. Pre ice age Australia's continental shelf was forested. When sea levels rose after the ice the long shallow eastern Australian continental shelf was part flooded and the coast moved inland. By chance it created the perfect environment for coral - living organisms to grow and flourish. This was about 8000 years ago ie the sea was shallow, the sea warm, the coral got enough sunlight but not too much - the shelf was geologically stable - no earthquakes etc and nutrients came from previous vegetation. The result coral grew and died and new coral grew on top creating the reefs - the barrier.
I went out to two outer reef sites with a small group. There are lots of boats offering trips but from reading reviews etc you get what you pay for because boats are licensed and are restricted to specific locations. Despite being 30 miles out of Cairns the water was warm and shallow with the bluest areas representing the white sand around the reef. We are required to wear suits for protection - stings rather than bites. Box Jelly Fish are around the coast line - not the reef - but you cannot be certain. Their sting is literally lethal.
What followed for me and everyone else in our group was amazing. I was snorkeling over the GBR and seeing the coral formations and sea life for myself. An incredible natural aquarium. There was no rush. We had up to 6 hours in the water over 2 sites. A few had underwater cameras or mobs in waterproof cases but I decided just to enjoy it and that is what I did. It was bountiful. The most lovely coral formations from small to enormous. Tropical fish of so many different types and shapes - some of brilliant colours and from small to large were everywhere - some in big shoals - sometimes all around you. Me and my buddy followed a giant turtle from a careful distance so not to disturb it for probably 15 minutes as it foraged and nosed around. We saw rays on the sand and what I understand to be a reef shark moving away (thank goodness!). I cannot describe the reef properly to do it justice - so I will give up trying. I will just say it was an enormous privilege for which I am very thankful.
The GBR has many pressures - both natural and man made. Hopefully it can survive and adapt. Certainly there are plenty of clever people doing their utmost to preserve it. Here's hoping they prevail.
The other World Heritage Site close to Cairns is as I mentioned above - the Daintree Tropical Rain Forest. I signed up for what I will admit appeared to be a rather touristy package but it was the only practical way for me to visit the area. As it turned out it was a thoughtfully put together full day and I learned a lot of interest from our guide.
Some Daintree stats.
As I have said the Daintree is the world's longest surviving tropical rain forest. 135 million years. Many of the plants have not changed much at all apparently.
Daintree is less than 0.1% of Australia yet it is home to 30% of Australia's frogs, reptiles and marsupial species and 65% of its bat and butterfly species. It is one of the most bio diverse places in the world.
It is the only place on earth where 2 UNESCO World Heritage Sites touch.
It has been the home of the Kuku Yalanji people for tens of thousands of years. Daintree is about 460 square miles. Very few live north of the Daintree River (which we crossed) - estimated 700. There are a few small settlements overall estimated at about 2 to 2500 people. My home Island - the Isle of Wight is 380 square miles so Daintree is quite a lot bigger.
There is a down side. While Daintree is undoubtedly beautiful, historic and unspoilt it is a harsh environment. Tropical heat - tropical rain ( its annual rain fall is 150 and 250 inches per year. The Isle of Wight's is 28 to 30 inches.) What is funny is Daintree does have a dry season (relatively). Tropical downpours however threaten Daintree. Cylones hit and can be very destructive. For instance 15 inches of rain in a single day which cases widespread damage and flooding and that is without the wind and wave damage. (called hurricane's in America and typhoons in SE Asia).
Then there are the deadly or hurtful plants - brushing some can be enough - plus all the bugs, spiders and snakes with venom - huge sea crocs and deadly jelly fish making it impossible to swim in the sea or for that matter going anywhere close to water courses. Well it put me off wanting a holiday home in the Daintree !
But Daintree was exceptional. Truly beautiful. Truly different. Nature at its greatest. Darwinism in the extreme.
Just before I finish. You have probably seen an episode or two of Border Force Australia. You might feel the authorities are neurotic about bio diversity and the need to avoid it's damage from dubious imports. Google the "Cane Toad" story. They were inadvertently introduced and are decimating northern Australia and still spreading !
Some mob photos of my day snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. There are no underwater shots because I didn't have an underwater cameras 😃
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| Daintree River. Crocs territory. No joking you wouldn't last very long. |
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| A bad photo of a Cassowary. Even they are prone to attack you. Very territorial. |
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| Tropical Rain Forest meets the Great Barrier Reef. Two WHO sites touching. But again it is sea crocodile and box jelly fish territory. Beautiful but deadly. |
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