David Shoulder - Isle of Wight: November 2022

A trip to Sicily.

The original plan was this would be a "Three Tenners" trip but brother Mike was work bound - so with his blessing it was just brother Rob and myself.

I had sketched out a plan for Sicily pre covid. Neither of us had previously been to Sicily but the main draw was we wanted to trek to Mount Etna and then Stromboli - both active volcanoes. (don't ask me why - ha!).

First a bit about Sicily. Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean - both in area and by a long way in population. Sicily's population is over 5 million - about the same as Finland and Norway and bigger than Ireland, Scotland and New Zealand.

It is a very rugged island - mountainous and as a result transport and communications have held Sicily back economically. It is very hard to traverse through the centre so most transport routes are coastal. In an effort to improve business activity in Sicily they have built a couple of motorways - Autostradas. They are feats of engineering - great long tunnels and expansive bridges that must have cost a fortune to build (no doubt UK tax payers money through the EU -ha!) They are toll roads - pretty cheap but mega worth it anyway. For the first day we didn't pick up our hire car sat nav was set on non motorway routes. Roads are narrow and busy and everything said about Italian driving is understated - they will push in anywhere - so don't rely on right of way. Rob told me he read many Sicilians have an unloved run around. They don't care if it gets damaged and drive accordingly to speed up progress on congested narrow roads.

As I have already mentioned our purpose was to spend some time in a place we had never been before but the main focus was the exciting prospect of hiking on 2 world famous active volcanos (subject to it being safe enough on the day!).

The main city - capital of Sicily - Palermo - is right over on the west side of the island. It would have been good to visit not least because it is the mafia epicentre - but in the time we had we decided to concentrate on the east coast - where Mt Etna is situated. This meant flying into Catania - Sicily's second city.

Just so you do not get the impression everything always goes smoothly for us I shall recount as follows. Our flight had gone well. We arrived as per schedule about 18.30 - it was dark. I had previously booked a small hire car for the week. Most of the hire care desks were in the terminal building but ours turned out to be a small building about 200 yards away and not easily found. We noticed most car hire desks were quiet but when we got to ours there was a queue (Sicily By Car). Obviously people were price motivated as we were! A 30 minute wait and despite checking in online there is paperwork to sort out. The assistant has some English but with humility it was not very good - not ideal when you are discussing insurance and excesses. I was sure we would need a sat nav. Our hire car didn't have one. The only solution was to hire a better equipped SUV. The hire fee jumps! We find the vehicle in a poorly lit multistorey and are expected to reconcile existing damage with printed diagrams acknowledging them. There were a lot of dinks especially for a new car! It was an impossible task. They drive on the right in Sicily of course. The car is left hand drive - right hand gear change - always takes some getting used to. Exit from the compound is a maze - the sat nav is too quiet under the AC fan. Rob is jumpy with the mad traffic - there is a lot to contend with. We eventually find our road - (it would have been impossible without a sat nav). Adequate street lighting is not a feature and while every street has a name very few seem to have signs denoting them - ha! We are in the road but where is our booked accommodation. When I eventually find it - it is behind a lock gated compound and we can't get in. 10 mins later we are in. All that is left to do is to park the car in the basement compound. It is desperately tight and our garage could hardly have been in a less accessible place. Blimey we needed a beer after that - ha! We are in our room - excellent WIFI and I go through my messages. One from the guide we have booked to take us up Mt Etna. It was meant to be in 2 days time but he says weather is not favourable - we have to go tomorrow if we want to go. Gear to sort tonight and a mega early start tomorrow. Not the most relaxing start to our visit but I am philosophical and was soon chuckling about it. We sat outside at 10 at night in the middle of Catania - marvelling at our surroundings and how much can be done in a day. Unbelievably the only place we could find for food was a late night MacDonalds. I will have to admit we really enjoyed it!.

It is today we eventually understand our sat nav is programmed to avoid the Autostrada! It is today a baptism of fire on windy Scicilian roads. Thanks to our pessimistic - realistic start time we get to the start to meet our guide in the Mount Etna National Park in good time. Etna is visible from miles away. An extract from Wikipedia about Mt Etna :

Mount Etna, or simply Etna is an active stratovolcano on the east coast of Sicily in the Metropolitan City of Catania, between the cities of Messina and Catania. It lies above the convergent plate margin between the African Plate and the Eurasian Plate. It is one of the tallest active volcanoes in Europe, and the tallest peak in Italy south of the Alps with a current height (July 2021) of 3,357 m (11,014 ft),^[2] though this varies with summit eruptions. Over a six-month period in 2021, Etna erupted so much volcanic material that its height increased by approximately 100 ft (30 m), and the southeastern crater is now the tallest part of the volcano.

Etna covers an area of 1,190 km² (459 sq mi) with a basal circumference of 140 km (87 miles). This makes it by far the largest of the three active volcanoes in Italy, being about two and a half times the height of the next largest, Mount Vesuvius.

Mount Etna is one of the world's most active volcanoes and is in an almost constant state of activity. The fertile volcanic soils support extensive agriculture, with vineyards and orchards spread across the lower slopes of the mountain and the broad Plain of Catania to the south. Due to its history of recent activity and nearby population, Mount Etna has been designated a Decade Volcano by the United Nations.(means it is prone to devastating eruptions close to human populations). June 2013, it was added to the list of Unesco World Heritage Sites.

We have all learnt about volcanoes at some time in our education. My little granddaughters - still in primary school - already have. The reasons behind their creation and ongoing activity is fascinating and the fact it is possible to walk through a volcanic landscape and even get close to a crater spewing fire and brimstone is both exciting and interesting prospect. Understanding volcanoes is both simple and of course mega complex - depending at what level you are focused on. I shall stick with the former - ha!

We all know volcanoes are created by molten rock from deep in the bowels of the earth escaping to the surface through cracks (weak points) in the Earth's surface. Most volcanoes exist at the edges of tectonic plates - in Etna's case where the African plate moving northwards at a rate of about 2.15cm per year is abutting the Eurasian plate. These massive forces create dislocations - earthquakes and opportunities for volcanoes to form.

Every volcano has individualistic characteristics both in terms of shape and how it erupts and the lava flows. The simple explanation for this is every volcano has its own magma chamber where the molten rock and gases are held before it finally breaks through to the surface. No two volcanoes are the same because the magma chambers are not uniform - different pressures - a different mix of materials - held for greatly varying periods of time. In Etna's case as I understand it the lava is thick and relatively slow moving which is why you get a tall volcano (stratovolcano) such as Etna. The other characteristic of Etna is it is covered over huge areas by black pyroclastic rock (pumice stone) - a moonscape. Pumice is created when rock held under pressure and filled with gases is fired into the air - sometimes a kilometre or more high. As the gas escapes the rock returns to the ground looking a bit like black honeycomb and very light of course. This stuff covers Etna. It is eventually broken down by weather and one of the hardest parts of our trek was wading through calf deep volcanic sand. Nothing grows on this pumice material for years but over time it breaks down to become fertile soil as it is washed down the slopes to the lower plains.

We really enjoyed the trek up and down to the Etna summit craters. We were so lucky with the weather. It was definitely a full day but such a special place to be - it was the worth it. Our guide was born and brought up in the nearest village to Etna. It has featured so much in his life - he is a ski instructor on Etna during the winter. He was in awe of the Volcano - deeply respectful of it but not scared of it - because he has spent a lifetime getting to know it - trying to understand it. Consequently when activity is high and the mountain closed to visitors he chooses to go up to watch the drama or to film. He talked about looking at the colour of the escaping gases and the route of the lava flows - and wind direction - and running - ha! We stood on the rim of 3 of the 4 summit craters - walked on the ridge between 2 of them. For 50 yards we picked our way around small steaming vent holes. You can imagine it was atmospheric - a loud noise like an underground train approaching then a woosh of flame and cloud of gases - mostly water vapour thankfully. Not one to forget but hard to describe.

After our epic Mt Etna day we had a relaxing sight seeing day in Sicily’s 2^nd city – Catania. I was in Rome with my daughter earlier in the year. Much is the same in Catania old town – scruffy chic but obviously not quite Rome! Italy is not having a great time economically – Sicily is one of Italy’s poorer provinces and it shows – poor maintenance – bins overflowing – and as -Rome graffiti everywhere. But for all that Catania was great. Very photogenic – Rob in his element – and not one sign of aggression or hostility. Food is very reasonably priced and special. Don’t miss the amazing fish market for atmosphere. Stunning the range of fish and shell fish available. We have a totally ridiculous attitude to eating fish in the UK. There is so much more great stuff in out seas – than just to be eating cod and tuna or for many people no fish at all. Sorry I shall get off my soap box.

Next day we make the relatively long drive along the coastal Autostrada to Milazzo. We stopped half way - at Taomina – perched high above the sea. Taomina is a favourite tourist destination – extremely chic and expensive. Designer shops and many smart bars (cafes) and restaurants. It was “nice” – but I am not one of the beautiful people and have no wish to be. I can see why people go there – the setting is spectacular – but I would much rather be in the less salubrious Catania old town.

Milazzo is a port and a busy one. I really liked Milazzo. It had character. After settling in our palatial (and bargain) overnight stay we went for a wander around the harbour. As we returned along the Quay we came to a Seamans Mission - I thought it was some sort of seaman's social club. There was an old boy sat outside in the sun and in my best Italian I smiled and said "beer" with appropriate actions. He said nothing but waved us in. We go into a ramshackle smallish office - immediately thinking what are we doing! He points to the sofa and forages for the beer. He produces 2 cans - 1 is non alcoholic I spot! He is very friendly - evidently delighted we had come in - but there is a language issue. He has no English - we have no Italian but he keeps forgetting that. He talks like we understand him but gradually a story emerges. He was at sea for over 40 years. He now looks after the mission and points to 7 photos on the wall - all local men who had died at sea. Rob is in his element. He has his camera and is keen to practice his new interest "street photography" - as I understand it photographing ordinary everyday life. Anyway he loves having his photo taken and then he shows us into the little chapel adjoining. It was a slightly mad 1/2 hour - but did no harm and I think all 3 of us enjoyed it for different reasons.

Early next morning we are on the Liberty Ferry heading for the volcanic island of Stromboli. Here is the wiki

Stromboli is an island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, off the north coast of Sicily, containing Mount Stromboli, one of the four active volcanoes in Italy. It is one of the eight Aeolian Islands, a volcanic arc north of Sicily.

The island, with an area of 12.6 square kilometres (4.9 sq mi), represents the upper third of the volcano. Its population was about 500 as of 2016. The volcano has erupted many times and is constantly active with minor eruptions, often visible from many points on the island and from the surrounding sea, giving rise to the island's nickname "Lighthouse of the Mediterranean".

Mount Stromboli has been in almost continuous eruption for the past 2,000–5,000 years; its last serious one occurred in 1921.A pattern of eruption is maintained in which explosions occur at the summit craters, with mild to moderate eruptions of incandescent volcanic bombs, a type of tephra, at intervals ranging from minutes to hours. This pattern of Strombolian eruption, as it is known, is also observed at other volcanoes worldwide.

Eruptions from the summit craters typically result in a few short, mild, but energetic bursts, ranging up to a few hundred meters in height, containing ash, incandescent lava fragments and stone blocks. Stromboli's activity is almost exclusively explosive, but lava flows do occur at times when volcanic activity is high: an effusive eruption occurred in 2002, the first in 17 years, and again in 2003, 2007, and 2013–14. Volcanic gas emissions from this volcano are measured by a multi-component gas analyzer system, which detects pre-eruptive degassing of rising magma, improving prediction of volcanic activity.

On 3 July 2019, two major explosive events occurred at around 16:46 local time, alongside 20 additional minor explosive events identified by Italy's National Institute of Geophysics and Volcanology. A hiker near the volcano's summit died after being struck by flying debris when the eruption began. Additionally, 6 people suffered minor injuries due to the eruption.

On 28 August 2019, at 10:16 local time, an explosive eruption sent a pyroclastic flow down the volcano’s northern flank and into the sea, where it continued for several hundred meters before collapsing. The resulting ash column reached a height of 2,000 m (6,600 ft).

The ferry ride to Stromboli was on a fast hydrofoil. Unfortunately, you are not allowed outside but the view from the window seat was good. Coming up to Stromboli island left you in no doubt where you were - it looks like a classic volcano. We are surprised when we land. The Stomboli small town is really lovely. There are no cars - just a few narrow steep lanes suitable only for a small golf cart or Tuk Tuk's. The buildings are white and it is so warm - everywhere there are brightly coloured flowers growing. Despite our very early arrival we find our accommodation half way up the hill and it is not long before I sit out in the sun to have breakfast. It was a modest property but from that little terrace there was an amazing panoramic view - so good I found myself quite moved in fact. To my left and below was the tiny main street with people going quietly about their business. Up the hill was more of the quaint little houses topped by an attractive church. Behind me was the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea with a great view of the basalt plug that was the original Stromboli Volcano. And in front of me - right in front - was the Volcano looming above us - literally we are sat on it, It was not threatening - the opposite - it was very peaceful - serene I would say. What a place.

We had time for a swim and the weather was so lovely. Instructions were specific. Avoid the beach on the tsunami side !! Stromboli is one of the newest lands in the world - maybe only 150000 years old. In its vicinity but under the sea it has been estimated there are over 200 volcanic geothermal chimneys and volcanoes rising from the sea bed. Therefore eruptions and seismic activity is not unusual and as a consequence neither are tsunamis. Obviously they are not on the scale of the massive one that hit in the Pacific rim some years back but they are still consequential and to be avoided. The recommended black volcanic beach is less prone apparently. A fantastic swim - kicking our feet looking up at Stromboli. The only negative - I was with my bruv and not a beautiful woman - ha!

Later in the day we join with our guide to hike up some of Stromboli. Initially we walk around some more of the coastal settlement. It is pretty extensive given its proximity to an active volcano but it is small scale. There is a primary school - and a few little shops and restaurants. Many of the houses are holiday homes apparently. We learn a bit more about life on Stromboli. One outstanding factor is there is no natural water. All houses are flat roofed with a low wall around to capture any rain. All houses have a basement water tank for storage. Rain is not nearly enough so a large water tanker comes to Stromboli twice a week to supply the tanks for everyone living there. Water is precious. Another interesting point was our guide was born and bred on Stromboli but he very much welcomed the second home owners rather than resented them which is so often the case. He said they are the main reason why Stromboli retains its beauty and character - because they do not want it to change and invest to keep it as it is. He believes it is a positive thing because otherwise Stromboli would probably be depopulated which it has been in periods in the past where the isolation just made life too hard.

We were lucky to be able to walk anywhere near the summit of Stromboli. A few days earlier there had been unusual and significant volcanic activity and the authorities shut down all hiking. We were in the first group allowed back but we had to keep extra distance much to the irritation of our guide. What had actually happened was a section of crater wall had breached allowing some lava flow. However the cooling magma soon built up the wall and the lava was once again contained. He thought the restrictions were an over reaction. Our guide was very at ease with the volcano. The settlement where he lived and was brought up - and where we were staying - is in the lee of the volcanic activity. Although Stromboli is active, he definitely does live with any fear - as you might imagine. I would even go as far as to say its dominant presence was a reassurance. When we got around the corner and higher up we could see where the magma and pyroclastic rock had formed a clear slope down to the sea. The most recent flows are the darkest and this was jet black. We saw the sun go down and watched the summit activity in the dark. As you can imagine it was quite a sight. It makes me smile now to think where we were.

One thing I didn't mention but is ironic given the fiery volcano. Unlike Etna much of Stromboli is covered in low vegetation and some olive trees. During the summer there was a film crew on Stromboli.and somehow, inadvertently, they set fire to the tinder dry grass. The fire spread rapidly and almost totally - threatening the village. Recently there has been mud slides in heavy rain as the vegetation normally retaining it has been destroyed. They anticipate it will take about 3 years to regrow properly. One of the most important is the round leaved Caper bush that thrives on the slopes.

Our ferry trip back to Sicily was very relaxing. A beautiful morning. The ferry was busy but we made several stops Ginostra - the tiny settlement at the other end of Stromboli and other Tyrrhenian Sea Islands in the chain - Panarea, Lipari and Vulcano. They all looked lovely but difficult to get to for sure.

We are now in our last few days. We head for Syracuse - still on the east side but south east. The terrain is gentler - flatter. It was a good decision especially as the weather was great. Nice to have a quiet period before we head home. This is an extract from Wikipedia:

The city is notable for its rich Greek and Roman history, culture, amphitheatres, architecture, and as the birthplace of the pre-eminent mathematician and engineer Archimedes. This 2,700-year-old city played a key role in ancient times, when it was one of the major powers of the Mediterranean world. Syracuse is located in the southeast corner of the island of Sicily, next to the Gulf of Syracuse beside the Ionian Sea. It is situated in a drastic rise of land with 2,000 metres (6,600 ft) depths being close to the city offshore although the city itself is generally not so hilly in comparison.

The city was founded by Ancient Greek Corinthians and Teneans and became a very powerful city-state. Syracuse was allied with Sparta and Corinth and exerted influence over the entirety of Magna Graecia, of which it was the most important city. Described by Cicero as "the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all", it equalled Athens in size during the fifth century BC.It later became part of the Roman Republic and the Byzantine Empire. Under Emperor Constans II, it served as the capital of the Byzantine Empire (663–669).

In the modern day, the city is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site along with the Necropolis of Pantalica. In the central area, the city itself has a population of around 125,000 people. Syracuse is mentioned in the Bible in the Acts of the Apostles book at 28:12 as Paul stayed there.T

We loved Syracuse. Although it is a tourist attraction it is a real place. The port is very active and the harbour and marinas were bustling not swanky. We enjoyed the beach - had several swims - enjoyed the food and beer and wine - but care if you are squeamish - they regularly eat horse meat. The go to place is the old town - the isle of Ortygia. It has an amazing history - very atmospheric - a lovely place to wander and get lost - ha!

Sicily was great. Roads are challenging but as I have said it is a real place. Being close up to Etna and Stromboli was memorable and Rob and I had a good laugh. He took loads of photos but as usual I doubt we will ever see them!

Here are some I took with my mob :

Views from Mount Etna