Thursday 6 October 2016

#RattleBrook Dartmoor "wild camping".

My early morning bike ride. A big change - autumnal indeed. Cycled back in to the face of a brisk north easterly - but a low bright sun - fully awake by the time I got back - ha! Warming and substantial porridge feels right for breakfast.

I have been down in Exeter for over a week - in the main with my daughter and husband and two beautiful little grand daughters. Incredibly Annabelle is now off to Primary School. Time is flashing by. A lovely privilege to be able to play a part in the gradual introduction to full days at first school. Really special. Fantastic to see Annabelle - cycling to school on her little bike - togged in her new school uniform and can't get there quick enough!

I have to mention the quiz night at the Stowy Arms (at Exminster). A typical pub quiz I guess - but the quiz master was Roger and our team the "Bricknell's Boys" (the name of our old headmaster). Together as a group of school mates we went to the Glastonbury Festival in the summer and Roger sold us the idea of joining in his big quiz night and that we must come down at some point. Anyway we did. What a good night - really well supported and Rog is a bit of a local celeb. (Modestly) Bricknell's Boys were the winners - (to some howls of fix). We did have an advantage - 3 aged 62 and one aged 61 - that is a shockingly lot of years to accumulate knowledge. Stating the total obvious - the human brain is incredible. It is amazing how things and facts almost forgotten or only ever half remembered can be dug out from the depths. How on earth does it work? Anyway not much senility evident so far - touch wood. Well done Satch - and I am sure it was just coincidence that one of the questions was - Vectis is the Roman name for where? - ha!

What I really intended to write about is two nights spent wild camping on Dartmoor - Dartmoor - Devon's wild and oft intimidating and always spectacular extended high granite moor.

We walked into the moor from our start point of the Dartmoor Inn carrying packs with everything we would need for two nights in a small tent. The Friday forecast was with the possibility of a shower - overnight and Saturday heavy showers and Sunday sunny and fine. We did not expect it to be particularly cold. The meteorologists pretty much got it spot on.

I have been here before - I have done quite a few treks on Dartmoor. Much is familiar - but walk memories merge and the tor landmarks look so different and often the same in light changes. It is a challenging place to navigate in - and judging distances not straightforward. It is beautiful. It is special. It is a genuine wilderness - it is so quiet - so unspoilt.

As we were setting off later than originally planned and with the threat of rain and heavy packs it made sense to get down to our planned camping spot in the Rattle Brook valley sooner rather than later. Erecting a tent in the rain is always best avoided if possible - ha! On the way we climbed Bray (Brat) tor famous for the landmark Widgery Cross on its summit. Puffing! Great views but ominous skies. We head down across clumpy turf for Hare Tor - really enjoying and to be honest feeling rather privileged to be in such a wonderful, quiet, massive, remote and special place all on our own. The threatening weather made it seem even more moody and atmospheric. We head across a wild moorland expanse in the direction of Chat tor - ground conditions are hard going - wet and boggy at times - but we know we do not have far to go to our chosen camp site. We speculate how easy it would be to lose bearings in poor visibility. We bear off down into the Rattle Brook valley and descend over tricky ground to be beside Rattle Brook on a flat lush turf promontory and a perfect isolated camp site. Kettle on - tent up. We sit outside and prepare dinner - stuffed tortellini - and take pleasure in our surroundings - a massive reward for a bit of effort and initiative.  It is not long before the showers start. It rains through the night and there were heavy showers for most of the following day. You might choose better weather - but it was great to be out in these wild elements. We were warm and dry - had plenty of good food - something to cook it on and - and a few luxuries. The vast moor surrounded us - the Rattle Brook made soothing noises as it rushed off the moor to eventually form one of the several Devon rivers that have their source on the high wet moor - water dropped by the prevailing south westerlies coming in over 3000 miles of unbroken Atlantic ocean. Our company and only in the distance - sheep and moorland cattle. Sadly perhaps - few people these days experience something like this - wild camping. They are at home in their box - TV on - and dinner in the microwave. (sorry that sounds judgemental - it is not intended to be really - but it is easy to become divorced from nature in our increasingly sterile and one dimensional world).

On Saturday we enjoyed the simple pleasures of breakfast in the tent with the rain coming down - warm and dry but with a strong sense of nature and a wild moorland and big sky view. Later as the rain eased we topped another couple of tors. Pre dinner drinks - beer or wine (just enough) was followed by a lovely risotto including peppers and bacon cooked on a meths fuelled Trangia - later a splash of whisky before bedtime - great stuff! The rain cleared overnight - the stars were out - it got cold but we were warm cosy in our little sturdy tent.

Sunday was a brilliant weather day. The sun was up - warm and clear visibility - we get water from the stream (I use a Sawyer) - brew up - breakfast - de camp and set off to eventually walk out. We see only a handful of fellow walkers in the whole day. The moor, the tors and the hugely extended views (due to the clear weather) are our privilege. We spend quite a lot of time clambering on Great Links Tor. It is a massive landmark as you get close. The views from the top are 360 panoramic - and we believe it is possible to see the sea well off to the coast of South Devon - wow. The top of Great Links Tor is worth the effort to get to indeed - very tactile scrambling on those massive, solid granite slabs and clitter (broken off granite bolders) that have their origin deep in the bowels of the earth and have stood there for millions of years and shaped in the harshest of weather.

Eventually we walk out on the old mining tramway track - now defunct of course but built 150 years ago. We round the foot of the grey whale like Great Nodden Tor and walk back to our start point - happy and tired and moved.

It is late Sunday afternoon - the Dartmoor Inn is closed but eureka - the nearby Fox & Hounds is open. Dartmoor Real Ale/Rattlers Cider and a wonderful roast dinner topped off a special weekend. To the next time!

Here are some views from my mob camera :-
















 

No comments:

Post a Comment