Tuesday, 1 May 2018

#Seattle

Our Clipper race ended in Seattle on 21st April and we flew out on the 27th. While much of my time was taking up either celebrating our completed voyage or carrying out essential boat maintenance for the next leg here are a few observations and photos of Seattle based on my time there.

Seattle is a major port - but the odd thing is it is not actually on the Pacific coast as such but at the head of a long inlet. As you enter the long inlet it is called the Strait of Juan de Fuca . What is amazing (or at least I thought so was the close proximity of two huge countries) - we were sailing between to our left and north -  Canada (Vancouver Island) - to our right and south the USA. Eventually you branch off into Puget Sound and then Elliot Bay for Seattle. We arrived at night so the city was lit up - it looked like a fairy land - very compact.

Note: italics from Wikipaedia

However Seattle had an estimated 713,700 residents as of 2017 and is the largest city in both the state of Washington and the Pacific Northwest region of North America. In July 2013, it was the fastest-growing major city in the United States and remained in the Top 5 in May 2015 with an annual growth rate of 2.1%. In July 2016, Seattle was again the fastest-growing major U.S. city, with a 3.1% annual growth rate. A major gateway for trade with Asia, Seattle is the fourth-largest port in North America in terms of container handling as of 2015. Logging was Seattle's first major industry, but by the late 19th century, the city had become a commercial and shipbuilding center as a gateway to Alaska during the Klondike Gold Rush. Growth after World War II was partially due to the local Boeing company, which established Seattle as a center for aircraft manufacturing. The Seattle area developed into a technology center beginning in the 1980s, with companies like Microsoft becoming established in the region, with Microsoft founder Bill Gates having been born in Seattle. Internet retailer Amazon was founded in Seattle in 1994, and major airline Alaska Airlines was founded in SeaTac, Washington, serving Seattle's international airport, Seattle–Tacoma International Airport. The stream of new software, biotechnology, and Internet companies led to an economic revival, which increased the city's population by almost 50,000 between 1990 and 2000.

Seattle has a very prominent water front with numbered "piers". They combine both commercial and tourist activity - with many seafood outlets for which Seattle is justly famous. The views across Elliot Bay to Bainbridge Island, the snow capped Olympic mountains and the amazing active volcano Mount Ranier are truly stunning. It is built on an isthmus - and once you go over the top the city falls away again to the massive freshwater Lake Washington beyond (where Bill Gates has his home). It is a great place to be.
Mount Rainier is the highest mountain of the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest, and the highest mountain in the U.S. state of Washington. It is a large active stratovolcano located 54 miles (87 km) south-southeast of Seattle, in the Mount Rainier National Park. It is the most topographically prominent mountain in the contiguous United States and the Cascade Volcanic Arc, with a summit elevation of 14,411 ft (4,392 m).Mt. Rainier is considered one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world, and it is on the Decade Volcano list.Because of its large amount of glacial ice, Mt. Rainier could produce massive lahars that could threaten the entire Puyallup River valley, and poses a grave threat to the southern sections of the 3.7-million-resident Seattle metropolitan area.
It is easy to understand why Seattle is so popular and monied. (once you have got your head around the threat of earthquake! - (more on that below). We were sat in the sun - with skiing but an hour away apparently, fabulous trekking and an absolutely breathtaking small boat sailing in Puget Sound and beyond. It is great for the outdoor life and has the advantage of 4 clearly defined seasons - with cold winters and hot summers.

Back from the waterfront Seattle is built on steeply rising ground with "avenues" running parallel and sometimes almost vertical "streets" forming a grid system which makes navigation so easy. I had a arranged to stay with brother Mike at the City Hostel on 3rd Avenue - a short distance walk from Bell Harbour Marina where we berthed - but a tip - take into account the steepness - ha!

Seattle is built on the Pacific rim - the world's most unstable geological area - and I have referred to the proximity of Mount Ranier - which on a good day can be seen outlined as a perfect shaped volcano - snow clad - and rising 14000 ft. Seattle lives with the threat of earthquake but the locals we talked to are convinced all building is either earthquake proofed or designated to become so by rebuilding in the close future. On that just back from the waterfront and running parallel to the whole length of Seattle is a very active rail link which runs from Alaska right down the US west coast and then a fly over carrying volume commercial traffic. The flyover particularly forms an unfortunate barrier (and noise) between the waterfront and city. However while it is was not evident the flyover is shortly to be replaced by a tunnel which is almost finished. The demolition of the flyover will remove a massive earthquake threat and greatly enhance the physical landscape.

We really enjoyed are time in Seattle. It is both smart and laid back - but be warned - your dollar does not go very far. It is expensive. There are masses of restaurants and bars serving fantastic seafood and craft beers for which Seattle has become famous. (care the craft beers are typically very strong and it is hard to know sometimes what you are actually consuming ha!).

Seattle has a noteworthy musical history. From 1918 to 1951, nearly two dozen jazz nightclubs existed along Jackson Street, from the current Chinatown/International District to the Central District. The jazz scene developed the early careers of Ray Charles, Quincy Jones, Ernestine Anderson, and others. Seattle is also the birthplace of rock musician Jimi Hendrix, as well as the bands Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, Alice in Chains, Foo Fighters and the alternative rock movement.

I am a long way from knowing a lot about US cities but I would say Seattle is not typical of what you might consider a US city to be - particularly East Coast. There seems to be a more oriental ethnic mix than black. It is not noisy or bustling - the traffic is amazingly slow, quiet and courteous. (we used their Lime Bikes - so easy to do - but remember the hills!) There was no police evident - no guns on show - no feeling of insecurity - but I don't know if that is because we were mainly in downtown Seattle.

Seattle is a very civilised place. It feels clean. Its outlook is outstanding. It is thriving. But remember your wallet !!

Here are some photos :-

looking back to the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Luca

Vancouver Island - Canada on our left
Olympic mountains USA on our right


arriving Seattle by boat at night - a twinkly sight with the Space Needle prominent
the waterfront is a great place to visit
the Clipper yachts at Bell Harbor marina


what to choose in an American diner?



Mike and I and what became a favourite haunt - The Rabbit Hole - Third Avenue

the land mark Space Needle built in 1961. It is claimed to be the most earthquake proof building in Seattle.

Nachos at the Rabbit Hole. portion control?

Lime bike (Boris bike) Download the app - 30 mins for a dollar

the port area is massive. Iconic trucks!

Scenes from Pike Market - central Seattle - a major attraction and quite rightly




amazing wild salmon from Alaska


views of or from Seattle
the Olympic mountains


Elliott Bay and Puget Sound

Bainbridge Island


many small parks and trees in Seattle


views from the top of the Space Needle




a borrowed photo of Mount Ranier - an active volcano at 14000 feet and only 50 miles away from down town Seattle.




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