MtToubkal with George

Now and again it is good to stretch yourself and there is little more satisfying than making a plan and carrying it out and getting to the finish.

Pre covid my son George and I arranged a trek in the Atlas Mountains - Morocco - to get to the top of Mount Toubkal - the highest mountain in North Africa at 13671 ft.

We booked our flights and eventually completed it about 3 years later - ha ha!

About 10 years ago I had a holiday visit to Marrakech and incorporated a days walking in the mountains around Imlil ( the large village - now small town described as the gateway to the High Atlas.) These are Berber lands. It is about a 2 or 3 hour drive from Marrakech into Imlil - going uphill all the way. Anyway I always planned to go back - and for various reasons I thought it would be something George would enjoy and a good thing for father and son to do together.

Just a quick summary of what climbing Mt Toubkal involves. Well first of all it is not a climb it is a hard walk/ scramble. 13671 ft is high - we walked across ice in June in Africa when it is sweltering in Marrakech. It is high enough to encounter altitude sickness and acclimatisation would be sensible. However it is not so high that many people have problems and many do the ascent from Imlil in 2 or 3 days. One thing though - you cannot ascend Toubkal without a licenced guide.

For myself the ascent while probably the most important thing was not the only thing I wanted out of it. I wanted to enjoy the High Atlas which is a beautiful quiet place and particularly I wanted George to  experience the simpler Berber life style and food. I didn't want to rush either. While I was confident I could get to the top and many older people than me probably do it each year - I knew it would be a test. Altitude sickness is not nice so - I wanted a reasonable period of acclimatisation - that was the plan.

A creature of habit - ha! - I booked the same hotel in Marrakech as I used before. The Moroccan House. Fantastic value.

For the trek we used Imlil Trekking (the one run by Hamid). I recommend them without hesitation. It is a local business - not a conglomerate travel company skimming off a slice. They are authentic - experienced and well run. 

Imlil reminded me of Lukla. It is a buzzing place. Plenty of trekkers. Perhaps Imlil has become more commercial because vehicular access is possible. Imlil is the gateway to the High Atlas though and pretty much everyone on their way to Mt Toubkal passes through it.

We trekked from Imlil with just our guide Hasheen. He was from the next village up the valley - Aroumd. Aroumd became our base. It is a real Berber village - bigger than it seems but little changed. They have electricity but not that much. You really are stepping into another world and at the foot of the Atlas mountains it is quiet, peaceful and very scenic. Our stay was in a Refuge - a hostel. It was comfortable - not that busy but with trekking groups coming and going. George and I really liked it there. Bizarrely it was called Dar Imperial.

Our group - George and I - Hasheen our guide and our muleteer and cook Ibrahim and of course the mule. The mule was used to carry our gear, our food and our tent etc. 

To get to the top of Mt Toubkal you have to walk to the head of the valley to Toubkal base camp. This is probably 3 to 5 hours from Aroumd. It is a spectacular walk. Brilliant vistas. Unspoilt. A few tea houses and mules servicing the trekking groups and the Refuges at base camp. Enjoy it. What is the rush and it is helping acclimatisation.

The two "refuge's" that form the nucleus of Toubkal base camp are basically hostels. They are surprisingly large with an authentic trekker vibe - + braying mules. It is technically possible to walk from Imlil/Aroumd - summit Toubkal and trek out to Imlil in a day to avoid a base camp refuge. That would be massive and to my mind a bit pointless. A major stress. The reason to possibly do it - to avoid an overnight in a Refuge dorm. You do hear of people having a horrendous stay. I think some of the dorms are large - snoring - small windows - hot - people coming and going - 3 am starts - limited electricity - only 2 showers and cold etc etc. We didn't sleep in the actual Refuge but had a 2 man tent in the grounds of Refuge Las Mouflons at 10500 ft. However the refuge was clean - and a good place to dine (your guide team cook their food for you using the facilities). I would have no hesitation in staying in the refuge - but take ear plugs - normal advice. You are there for a purpose - not a holiday - ha! and it is a good/sensible acclimatisation stop over.

For several reasons the 4 or 5 hour walk/slog from base camp to the summit is best started very early in the morning ie in the dark. You definitely need head torches and I find one walking pole so helpful. Reasons for the early start - heat and scenery - giving time to get back down and trek out and also because you have to traverse ice and that is much easier when it is solid. 

4.00 am up for a 4.30 start after a small breakfast for me. I slept well in our 2 man tent. George he tells me had been sick in the night - not altitude sickness. I never heard a thing - he is so considerate. It is cold. The three of us set out with our head torches. George is very fit and of course so is Hasheen our guide. It is poly poly for me. Slowly slowly. It is about 4 hours to the top. Not massive in distance but we are gaining height quite rapidly. The ground is rough and you have to pick your steps for every yard. and at times over ice. In some ways the dark helps - you can only see 20 yards ahead - no sense of the route and distance. But it begins to get lighter and harder. The air is thinning. One guy we chatted too at dinner the night before is going back down. He talked himself into failing and we are not surprised.

As the sun comes up I start looking up and looking at the route. I have time with intermittent rests on my pole. The way up is clear - the ridge line ahead. It doesn't look too far or too hard - but as on the sea distance is hard to judge. We get to the top - Hasheen and George are fantastically supportive. Unusually for me however I feel the weak link. I am 100% going to get there - it is all about head not really about body - but I am getting older and I am conscious of that. On the ridge line the views really open up - massive views south over the Atlas and down to the Sahara and behind us epic mountain landscapes. For now though it is 45 minutes to an hour of ascent to get around a false summit and up to Toubkal top. We see some people coming down ( very early starters). They seem to smile at us either with encouragement or pity - ha ha!

We get to the top. I have a sense of relief - a sense I made hard work of it - but I am here. I am here with George - the highest point in Africa north of the Equator. We are higher now than millions of people in Africa. The views are panoramic. It is cold but not bitter. The air might be a bit thinner but not noticeably so - we can stay for 20 minutes or so. George is not demonstrative. He takes it all in his stride - maybe not quite so epic for him because he is so fit - but he gets it I know. We take a few photos - drink from our water bottles. Hasheen is keen we eat the dates and walnuts (he has grown) for energy. For a minute or two I get emotional - the enormity of where we are and what a proud father I feel with George there. It is a memorable moment or two and I see it in George's eyes that he feels and recognises it too.

Now it is down. This should be much easier - downhill losing altitude all the way. But actually it was almost harder than going up. The issue apart from jarring knees is the ground is loose. Masses of scree  and the ice we had to cross had softened. I am slow and purposeful - careful. Hasheen mothers me a bit too much - but a fall would be bad news surrounded sharp edged rocks and boulders. George is watchful. It is a long way down - not much faster than going up - although George could have done it in half the time I am sure. We get to base camp Refuge at about 1.00 I think. It is hot down here. Full sun. Our muleteer has cooked an epic lunch. Fortunately George is hungry - I have no appetite - just thirsty and in need of a lie down before we set off for the walk out and down to Aroumd! I am tired.

It is amazing the beneficial effects of a doze. Half an hour later or so we make our way down the trail we came up the previous day. It is a long walk - but it is easier going - fantastic scenery - perfect quiet apart from crossing other trekkers on the way up and the colourful sight of the muleteers. I was impressed by the condition of the Mules. They are not abused or obviously overloaded as far as I could tell. I enjoy the walk down. I have been to the top so any pressure I felt has gone. The only down side - Aroumd is Muslim - Berber dry. No beer tonight!

We get to the Hostel - tea ! - and a shower and dinner. We walk into the dining area. There are a couple of other groups there. A guide says they have been to the top today and they give us a clap and friendly cheer. It was over the top but nice. They are heading up the next day. Members from each group - both Spanish came over for info. There are always one or two nervous about their chances. We reassured them of course.

Next day we walked around Aroumd. It was lovely - low key. Perhaps the "highlight" was our guide Hasheen took us to the local Hammam. This a refuge in the winter when it is cold and is used regularly by the residents who do not have running hot water. It was a small place - white tiled. The wood fire was underneath heating the floor and water. There was a washing ritual and Hasheen was the physio! It was an odd mix of funny and reverent. At the end of the day it was an experience and we were clean - ha!

One final thing. Tipping our guide and muleteer. This is the custom and expected and no doubt factored in as wages. Our research showed 10% of the trek fee might be considered a good tip. George and I discussed this at length because Hasheen put so much into making our trek a success including inviting us to his home to meet his family. Up to you. Whatever feels right.  

Finally we get back to Marrakech. I had previously stayed in Marrakech maybe 10 years ago and felt I knew the layout and was sure it would be a place George would enjoy seeing. We had a fun couple of days - especially as Morocco is one of the most moderate Islamic countries and Marrakech one of the most liberal cities in Morocco. After 5 days in the hot Atlas with only sweet tea or not very cold water to drink a cold beer became stuff of dreams. There is no problem getting alcohol in Marrakech - it can be bought in off licences and many hotels have bars. (albeit those bars are located on upper floors so not to cause offence to the majority who are teetotal of course). 

Fairly quickly I could see Marrakech had changed since I was there last. It seemed less hectic - perhaps a bit sanitised - more modern. Progress. The Medina and the souk are the big draws. We spent most of our time there. The souk is huge - a real warren and certainly worth looking around - an adventure - as step into the unknown - easy to get lost. However my impression is it exists almost exclusively for the tourist market now rather than a genuine market essential to the local community.

The main square within the walls of the Medina is Jemaa el Fnaa. For me by a long way it is the main attraction of Marrakech. Daytime is interesting - a lot of commercial and tourist activity going on and a place to sit at a perimeter cafe and watch the world go by. Night time it is noisy and colourful - and while maybe not unique is something to experience. Many people and groups are performing all wonder of things - from snake charming to acrobatics - from music performances to boxing all comers. Locals and tourists come out at night for the entertainment. There are also a mass of food vendors. It might be intimidating but my strong advice is sit down and get stuck in. It is great theatre - what's wrong with sheep's brain - its all part of the sheep's head you have ordered after all !? 

It was a fantastic trip for George and I. Morocco is not the far away from the UK - and not expensive. The High Atlas was special - Marrakech was fun and relaxing. George as usual was thoughtful and considerate and very supportive of his dad. He is talking about going back again. That is a great outcome. Cheers champ it was a significant happy memorable time. Brilliant. xxxx  

Here are a few mob photos :

Top of  Mt Toubkal 13671 ft. Sahara desert beyond the Atlas