Saturday, 18 March 2023

#TelAviv

I am visiting Israel for the first time. I have wanted to see Israel for as long as I can remember and now I am here.

Before I write too much I think I should make the basis of my visit clear given well understood sensitivities. My interest is primarily cultural as with all my travelling. I am not a religious person but I respect everyone's right to believe what they want without challenge unless their beliefs detrimentally impact on others lives or particularly personal religious belief trumps the common law. I am acutely sensitive to cultural norms when visiting other countries and respect them as a guest. With regard the Arab Israeli issues I have no point of view to express at this time. The issue is just too complex and I am not qualified to make an informed judgement. In the recent past I have been to Morocco, Jordan and Egypt without favour. Please read my blogs to see where I am coming from.

Tel Aviv - my starting point - 12km from Ben Gurion Airport (use the train) - just over a 5 hour flight from London.

Tel Aviv is Israels second largest city after a united Jerusalem - just under half a million people. However it is Israels economic and technological powerhouse. It could hardly be more different to Jerusalem. Which is Israels capital city ? Well officially Jerusalem  - but it was only in 2018 the American's under Trump, highly controversially moved their embassy to Jerusalem the divided city ( more to come on that). The other embassies are in Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv was only founded in 1909 as a modern housing estate on the outskirts of the ancient port of Jaffa. Tel Aviv grew rapidly populated by refugees particularly after the Second World War as we know. Just to iron out confusion Tel Aviv - Yafo reflects the unification of Tel Aviv and Jaffa in 1950. Yafo is Hebrew for Arabic Jaffa. I only spent a short time in Tel Aviv but give some personal impressions underpinned by what I have read. Here they are in no particular order :

  • Tel Aviv is emphatically a Mediterranean city  -  it has a Mediterranean climate and is dominated by its many sandy beaches. My pod hotel overlooked the beach. While I never experienced it myself apparently the beach area is where thousands congregate on beach days with a truly international vibe. Alas for me the weather was overcast but it meant I could walk and jog freely and have a good look around.
  • Tel Aviv is known as the white city. It is white. Buildings have to be clad in limestone.
  • Tel Aviv is one or the most expensive cities in the world to live. I am surprised because there is land. A big factor is the increasing value of the shekel against the international dollar.
  • Tel Aviv has the reputation as a party city - a fantastic nightlife - high end restaurants ( claimed to be the worlds vegan food capital ) - and cafe culture. 
  • It is considered to be a safe city - a liberal city - is gay friendly with a large LGBT scene. TA attracts 2.5 million tourists per year many from the middle east - ironic really.
  • Fundamentalist Jews not so evident.
  • Emphasis is on efficiency. Public servants can be brusque but individuals are very friendly and helpful. Their first language is Hebrew but it is reasonable to assume just about everyone can speak English and are quick to extract info from their phone to help!
  • Much of TA is built in what is referred to as an austere style. In 2003 Tel Aviv - the white city was designated a UNESCO world heritage site for its large concentration of international building styles  - most notably the Bauhaus style. I really like Bauhaus - in fact it is a favourite particularly when it is softened by lovely Mediterranean plants and flowers. I don't think for practical reasons I would want a Bauhaus holiday flat in Tel Aviv but maybe one in Marrakech or the French Riviera - ha not really !  
I am glad I visited Tel Aviv. I would have loved to use the beach but on the whole it excels in things that have limited appeal to me -  a jet set life style! However I have to say a big thumbs up to its live and let live culture.

Here are some mob photos :

One of Tel Avivs 13 beaches

My pod hotel 4th floor - sea view - cheap (relatively) - ha!

Rabin Square -where President Yitzack Rabin was assassinated in 1995. The protest centre of Tel Aviv. Modest by Tianenmen Square standards!


Rothschild Boulevard  



Every good city has a market. Carmel Market!




Hummus is a staple


Towards Jaffa. I jogged there. Felt a pretty cool thing to do - ha!


Back towards Tel Aviv

Jaffa

Jaffa an ancient port. Not so big but an unusual mix of crafts



Jaffa ancient streets. Now quite arty. This amazing tree grown in a pot and suspended in mid air.


Uri Geller bent spoon













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