#Carrauntoohil Coomloughra horseshoe. Visit Ireland PT1

I am just back from my first visit to Ireland - long overdue. While our intention was to visit Dublin and have a general sight see our primary objective was to get to the top of Carrauntoohil - the highest point in Ireland. Why? - well not just because it is the highest point but because it is in an area of outstanding natural beauty and not a push over despite its limited height in "mountain" terms - so something special to do.

Here are two guide book extracts :-

Carrauntoohil (/ˌkærənˈtuːl/, Irish: Corrán Tuathail)^[2] is the highest peak on the island of Ireland. Located in County Kerry, it is 1,038 metres (3,406 ft)^[1] high and is the central peak of the Macgillycuddy's Reeks range. The ridge northward leads to Ireland's second-highest peak, Beenkeragh (1,010 m), while the ridge westward leads to the third-highest peak, Caher (1,001 m). Carrauntoohil overlooks three bowl-shaped valleys, each with its own lakes. To the east is Hag's Glen or Coomcallee (Com Caillí, "hollow of the Cailleach"), to the west is Coomloughra (Com Luachra, "hollow of the rushes") and to the south is Curragh More (Currach Mór, "great marsh").

The circuit around Coomloughra is undoubtedly Irelands most spectacular horseshoe walk. Located in the heart of the Macgillycuddy Reeks range in Co. Kerry this breathtaking walk encompasses Irelands three highest peaks Beenkeeragh (1010m), Carrauntoohil (1039m) and Caher (1001m). This route provides the highest altitude walking in the country, with around 5km in excess of 800m. The narrow ridge running between Beenkeeragh and Carrauntoohil offers magnificent views of the surrounding countryside and gives the hill walker a far greater feeling of reaching the summit of the world than any other approach to Carrauntoohil. Spectacular as the Benkeeragh ridge is crossing it is definitely not to be recommended without the assistance of experienced hill walkers and is probably not for those of a nervous disposition or who have a bad head for heights.

Two issues for us. The weather - and which route to choose.

First the weather. Ireland has an oceanic climate (adjacent to and straight off 3000 miles of Atlantic). It is mild for its latitude but it has a lot of rain particularly in the west and south west of Ireland. The Macgillycuddy Reeks are in County Kerry (south west) - average rainfall about 2000 mm per year. (where I live on the Isle of Wight - about 800 mm - and we are rarely short of water - so a big difference). Consequently Ireland is green - not called the Emerald Isle for nothing. On the day we travelled down to Kerry there were very heavy and frequent showers with very black and fast moving clouds.

We had a 2 day window. Next day - maybe dry to mid afternoon - but concerns about visibility. The hill tops were "clagged in" - cloud covered. The following day possibly improving.

The route. There are several ways up Carrauntoohil - but the more we read about it the more we wanted to complete the Coomloughra Horseshoe route which takes in Irelands three highest peaks in one walk. The problem - conditions and the ridge link between Beenkeragh and Carauntoohil. This ridge is a serious scramble - narrow - with falls into the valley either side. Great care was advised. As the ridge is exposed strong wind and wind and rain would make an attempt to cross it inadvisable.

We decided to go next day on the basis that nothing would be guaranteed for the following day. Visibility was a concern but it was dry and rain was not forecast until 4. We walked into the Coomloughra valley from the new "hydro" carpark still not fully decided on the actual route. The choice - go left and get to Beenkeragh first (for the best of the weather) giving us the best chance of tackling the ridge and completing the horseshoe. The down side - if we get to Beenkeragh and decide we cannot take on the ridge we will miss out on Carrauntoohil. On the other hand if we go right - and do Caher and then Carrauntoohil it is very likely Beenkeragh would be inadvisable as the weather was due come in.

We get to the point of decision. Jo and I decide to go for the horseshoe - on the basis that there were occasional glimpses of the top and it looked wonderful. There were no signs in the early morning of deteriorating weather. So Beenkeragh it is! (summit fever - ha!)

Walking in the Macgillycuddy Reeks does make you feel you are out there. There is virtually no one around. Unlike national parks in the UK there are no signs - and very little in the way of paths. You have to find your own way. Jo is an excellent map reader. We make our way. It is a good walking challenge - beautiful and as we walk in to the head of the valley we get good sight of the huge wall behind the lake we will eventually straddle, Beenkeragh - Carrauntoohil - Caher.

I will not try and describe the scenery except to say - it is outstanding. Adjectives. Moody. Clean. Unspoilt. Tough. There are some mob photos below. We completed the ridge in some cloud. It was a real challenge and had its nervy moments but Carrauntoohil followed and we get to the highest point in Ireland. Then onto Caher and back down.

We walked almost not stop 9.30 to 4.30. Rain came as we got back to the car! Brilliant. We achieved what we set out to do. Visibility could have been better - yes - but we had been very lucky with the weather. It was atmospheric. Fantastic and memorable. Hugely satisfying.

We find our way to the quirky Climbers Inn at Glencar for a well earned Guinness (and pool championship - ha!)! Later back at our Glenbeigh base - traditional Irish fare - bacon cabbage and parsley sauce at the Towers Inn. A great day. A privilege. Thank you. A warm glow.