David Shoulder - Isle of Wight: #CoasttoCoast C2C Sea to Sea

We three brothers enjoyed the cycling the Hebridean Way in July. Enthused we thought we could squeeze another one in before the weather turned. Same format - cycling - camping - low budget - ha!

The route we chose was a well defined and popular one - the Sutrans C2C route, C2C - Sea to Sea! The idea is to cycle across England from the Irish Sea to the North Sea - albeit at one of its narrowest parts. The recommendation is west to east because of helpful prevailing winds. The start is either Whitehaven or Workington - the finish either Tynemouth or Sunderland. We chose Whitehaven to Tynemouth - 140 miles. We decided on 4 days cycling - some do it much quicker of course. The guide book recommends 5 days to allow for sightseeing. There are many ways to approach the route - the surface is good - but we have touring bikes - pretty heavily laden (although we have improved) because we are self sufficient. We each carry a tent - a cooking system - food - and of course a range of clothes to deal with whatever the unpredictable weather can throw.

A quick note on logistics - Mike drove with Rob from Exmouth. I drove direct from the IOW. A bit under 400 miles from the Island - so a fair hike for us southerners. Whitehaven if you do not know it is in Cumbria. Our plan was to leave the vehicles at the start and had arranged through Haven Cycles at Whitehaven transport to pick us up at the finish in Tynemouth and bring us back. The drive back takes 2 1/2 to 3 hours and cost us £60 each. It was the only practical solution and worth it.

We arranged to meet at St Bees 4 miles from Whitehaven. As far as I could find this was the nearest practical campsite. We arrived late afternoon - got the tents up etc - and then thought we would have a scout around - find the start at Whitehaven etc for an efficient start the next day. What immediately became apparent was the route to Whitehaven from St Bees was a very hilly 4 miles! We aren't the biggest fans of unnecessary hills so we decided rather than leave the vehicles at St Bees we would drive to Whitehaven for the start. That meant finding secure carparking. Again Haven Cycles provided the solution - it was an extra cost - but a good decision.

Next morning - a little behind schedule (Rob always has something to repack - lol) we get to the official C2C start at Whitehaven harbour filled with nice Irish Sea water. The start was almost a disaster. The tradition - the done thing on this route - is to place your back wheel in the Irish Sea at the start. But the slipway - tidal affected of course - was incredibly slippery. Rob dropped his bike - and I nearly went over. Anyway we got the all important photo and we were off!

First day was a bit overcast but dry and still. Our plan was to cycle about 40 miles into the Lake District to get to Keswick and beyond. We eventually camped at Troutbeck near Scales. It was a top day. How can you not be uplifted by being in the Lake District. We climbed a fair bit - and got our head in the clouds (and wind) when we got over the formidable Winlatter Pass. After Keswick the cycling was lovely and by clever planning we came across the White Horse Inn about 2 miles before our campsite for the night!

Next day was to be another 40 miler - on to Penrith - gradually out of the Lake District and down to and across the Eden Valley. Our objective was Nenthead - North Pennines. Just great scenery. Quiet. Special. Hard to describe. One thing I love about these type of rides. You get in a bubble. You - the setting - the personal effort on the hills - the release going down. Your own thoughts. Your own plans. Your own dreams. Make of it what you will. Hard to beat. When the Three Tenners cycle we rarely form a peloton - ha! We do our own thing - cycle at different speeds - and meet up usually when the route is not clear. There was one especially long tough climb to the Hartside summit and eventually the long downhill to Alston. This a quote from the guide book " leaving the gentle Eden Valley you soon climb to the spectacular viewpoint of Hartside before beginning the traverse of the North Pennines - England's last wilderness. Much of it is designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty - the sombre wide open spaces present if anything a more powerful landscape than the Lakes themselves." It was sombre - it was grey - it was at times magnificent - like another world - and so quiet - so little development - just sheep.

We got down off Hartside and eventually met up at the lovely little town of Alston (that claims to be the highest market town in England). I went into a pub and ordered a hot chocolate while I waited. It had been draughty up there! On Alston the main street looks and feels like that cobbled street on the Hovis advert - but it is not the same place.

Eventually we head on towards Nenthead. We have booked a bunkhouse for the night - because we were up high and there were no designated camping areas. It turned out to be a good decision. It was not a nice evening outside. We were dry and showered and comfortable. We had the whole Haggs Head Bunkhouse to ourselves for £25 each. Just as well. My brothers snoring can be off the scale and this night it was a shocker. Eventually I had to move to another room and I am normally a heavy sleeper!

Next day was dank and still. We had just a few miles to Nenthead and just 32 in all to get to Consett. As we get to Nenthead I see a bike repairers. I put my head in the door to check out the route as there were options. The owner was smiling. He said the first part is a killer! Basically in a relatively short distance we had to get up to the highest point on the whole trek - Black Hill 1998 ft. It was steep. We get up and on to a beautiful wild open moor. On the moor there were ups and downs with another bigee up to Parkhead Station via Stanhope. It was a brute of a climb but I really enjoyed it. A great place to be but I am sure the warning signs were right. Beware it can be dangerous up here in bad conditions.

As in life you usually get out what you put in. Thereafter it was a wonderful 10k descent on the Waskerley Way - a bridle way / cycling track on an old rail line. It was great - freewheeling a lot of the time. Beautiful quiet countryside. Hardly no one around. We have time in hand, the riding is easy and the final leg tomorrow would be even easier.

We have booked a campsite a few miles out of Consett - a nice little site (we are the only ones on it) called Starlight Camping. A field (with great views) and a portacabin - well fitted out as a shower block etc. The owner Billy comes down for a chat. We sound him out for the nearest pub and shop. As suspected it was several miles away and up and down hills. We agree we have no choice but to cycle later. While in the shower I reflect on that. I ring Billy from my tent. I do a deal with him to pick us up at 4pm and drive us to the local pub. He agreed to pick us up at 6.30 and take us to the local fish and chip shop on the way back. He was very happy with £10 per person. So were we. The drive to the pub didn't take long but it would have been a brute of a ride especially topped up with beer. The Fleece Inn was quiet but it was a good place to be and the fish and chips turned out to be amazing! We are back at the campsite - picnic table - and fish and chips - and witnessed an amazing sky. (see photos below). A good nights sleep.

As the Tour de France - and the gentle ride into Paris - ours is to Newcastle and then to Tynemouth! I thought Consett would be industrial - a former steel town. But no the countryside is lovely - the people we met friendly and chatty. I think it was Rob who made the comment "Boris goes on about levelling up - its the south that needs levelling up with the north! " We were well impressed with the area.

Our route is down the Derwent Walk - along the River Derwent - idyllic woodland and pasture until we get to where the Derwent joins the mighty River Tyne. We have a choice south or north bank. We start off on the south but cross on the Tyne Bridge and head down through Newcastle on the Hadrian's cycleway the 10 miles all the way to Tynemouth. It was an easy enjoyable ride - with many landmarks.

We get to Tynemouth at about 2.30pm. What a suprise. A real buzzing tasteful holiday town - all up together and nice - traditional. We know the northerners call us soft southerners. The late September sun is out but a real cold wind coming off the North Sea. Those Geordie lasses don't care. Not a sign of a coat or a jacket!

It was a bit of an effort to dip our front wheels in the North Sea (as custom requires to complete the sea to sea) but we managed it at the local sailing club. A good moment - we have done well.

Haven Cycles pick us up for the 2 1/2 road trip back to Whitehaven via Carlisle.

It was a great thing for us to do. I will admit I get a great deal of satisfaction out of the planning and carrying out the plan. I love to reflect on what we have done. Completing the journey is probably the most important thing. Doing it with my brothers - each with strong personalities but so different is a brilliant dynamic. (we sometimes wonder what our late parents would think - and know that they would be proud and happy to see us do these things together).Cheers bruvs - to the next time.

Here are a few photos from my mob camera :

The start in the Irish Sea at Whitehaven Cumbria

First glimpse of the Lake District

Camping the first night nr Scales (Troutbeck)

My trusted Dawes Super Galaxy. Old but a great bike. Looks overloaded but the weight is not too bad. I prefer to make the effort to carry more gear to be comfortable. A larger tent for instance.