#Madeira

I am recently back from a short break. It is the first time I have been to the island of Madeira.

You might already know it. I didn't. I knew it had a reputation for flowers and was situated somewhere in the sun this side of the Atlantic but not much more. The reason it cropped up was covid - somewhere to at last get away to that was on the green list. Madeira is an autonomous Portuguese island and while mainland Portugal including the Canaries was on the amber list - Madeira was green.

So where actually is it? Well - 250 miles north of the Canaries - and 320 miles west of Morocco. It is part of an archipelago and the biggest island. Madeira is about 35 miles long and 14 miles wide (so maybe a 1/3rd bigger than the Isle of Wight - and has a surprisingly big population - now 250000. It has a mountain ridge that extends along the centre of the Island which rises to 6109 ft at its highest point - over 1500 ft higher than Ben Nevis - the UK's highest mountain.

The geology is fascinating.

Madeira is at the top of a massive volcano that rises about 20000 feet from the Atlantic seabed. It is part of the massive undersea Tore Mountain Range. Most of the activity ended 700000 years ago and erosion has now shaped the landscape.

While in the time available I did not see much of the landscape it is easy to get an idea of it. As you approach on the plane the view is predominantly black (volcanic) craggy mountains. The airport is on a narrow coastal strip. Immediately you see the terrain is extremely hilly - with most of the properties built on slopes - often severe ones. It is quite a sight. The road to Funchal from the airport runs through a number of substantial tunnels - alpine style. The taxi driver said before they were built the journey would have taken 2 hours. It now takes 20 minutes.

Anyway in no particular order here are a few odds and ends that come to mind about Madeira :

Madeira is not a brash place - it is not a party destination. Indeed it is popular with people retiring and looking for a quiet lifestyle.
It is well maintained - clean and gentle. The south particularly has a mild maritime climate and plants thrive. the gardens and parks are a feature. We visited the Jardine Botanico - high above Funchal (by cable car). The gardens have international renown.
Although the topography is much different Funchal reminded me of Singapore ie quiet, ordered - tidy - even manicured.
While the tourism trade is very well established there is only one natural beach - Praia Formosa - basalt rock and black volcanic sand. Apparently there are two others but they were created by sand imported from the Sahara.
As Madeira is at the top of a 20000 ft mountain the islands sides are typically sheer - hence few beaches. The water gets deep very quickly and it has some of the highest sea cliffs in the world at 580m. Probably the reason it is a popular stop for the cruise ships.
There is a distinct difference between the southern coast and the northern coast in terms of climate. If you want late season sun - head south. Temperatures obviously change as you move from sea level rapidly up to 6000ft. Allows for many different types of plants to grow in a short space.
Although there is plenty of sea fish etc now available Madeiran waters are not good for fishing because of the great depth of water. Consequently much is imported from the Portuguese mainland. Similarly foodstuffs. As a result Madeira is not a giveaway price wise.
Their main fish and their traditional dish is Scabbard fish - often served with bananas (that grow well). Scabbard fish are ugly brutes - jet black - big teeth - a type of eel. Not everyone's cup of tea based on looks but they eat well.

Madeira's signature dish - Scabbard fish with banana

Madeiran people seem typically short in stature. I suspect this is diet related. It is the case in China and India - the younger people are taller - because of improved diets. I think a lot of Madeiran's leave to work abroad. I sat next to a lady on the plane that has worked in London for 45 years - but maintains and island home and tries to return twice a year.
Property prices are increasing - many flats being built. Madeira did well dealing with covid - easy to control entry etc - and consequently it seems older people especially have seen the sense and merit of an island life - especially with the climate and the prettyness. Madeira feels really safe.
But beware. Madeira as I have said is very steep almost everywhere except the limited coastal strip. A hard place to live if you rely on walking. Roads while well surfaced are narrow and windey. Precipitous edges. Bus services are good it seems.
Madeira wine goes very well with Madeira cake. I was especially taken with Madeira wine - compares really well against sherry and port. It might become a xmas tipple. Poncha - the local spirit made of sugar cane and fortified by honey is strong and sweet. Not for me. Ghastly stuff - like medicine.
There is much left to explore on Madeira. It is famous for its Levada walks and hikes. Levadas are narrow canals or water courses that bring water down off the mountains. Many have paths set beside them and make up a network of walks that range from easy to challenging.

As an option for late season sun Madeira offers a lot. We were especially lucky with the weather - late October and unbroken 26/27 degrees. Showers can be a feature however so probably not as safe a bet as the Canaries 250 miles south but I am going to go again. It is lovely place and only 3.30 hrs away.

Here are a few photos from my new mob camera