David Shoulder - Isle of Wight: #Argentina - Buenos Aires

Argentina is a massive country in area - suprisingly perhaps - the 8th largest in the world. It has a population of just over 40 million of which not much less than half live in the Buenos Aires area. Not suprisingly therefore Argentina is the least densily populated country on earth overall.

Here is some stuff background info I have picked up through walking tours, chatting to guides and of course reading while Argentina has my interest - as I am here. Usual desclaimer - I might not be dead accurate on everything - ha!

Well first of all the area of Argentina was not an area the Spanish Conquistadors were very interested in. When Napoleon conquered Spain it eventually followed the country of Argentina became independent. Gradually it became apparent Buenos Aires was well located as an access route into South America. It saved going all around the bottom for one thing. Anyway Argentina became successful - huge - perhaps the world's biggest exporters of wheat, soya and meat of course. Much was concentrated on Buenos Aires. In a 50 year period - 1870/80 to 1920/30 the elite in Buenos Aires became fabulously wealthy through trade and their rake off.

In this short period Buenos Aires as we see it today was largely built. There are no "old" buildings in BA. They were never built. What there is is large numbers of magnificent buildings - palaces - theatres - municipal buildings - but all built in the critical 50 year period. Many are copies, many are immitations of European buildings which the relatively suddenly rich wanted to ape as seen as sophisticated and tasteful.

After the golden 50 years Argentina's and by definition Buenos Aires fortunes have been a roller coaster. There have been some massive downs and while things have stabilised in the last 10 years and Argentina is in the big league in many ways it is still trying to get back to its glory days and falling well short.

So a more up to date account.

The world was affected of course by the Great Depression of the 1930's and then there was the second world war. BA went into decline. The fabously rich mainly lost out.

Step in the Peron's. God like to some. The wonderful - the tragic Eva Peron (Duarte). The new President and his beautiful wife of the people. The Peronisters swept to power to help the poor. They encouraged massive immigration to man the factories. They tried to improve welfare and housing and working conditions. Things boomed again for a while. However the Perons were hated too. Society polarised. Left and right. They also were heavily criticised for their glamour and personal excesses. Ultimately Argentina was spending money it didn't have. Things starting falling apart. Then a military coup and of course Eva died tragically young. The Peronist legacy lives on today. So does the polarisation of politics. Argentina still struggles to find a government of unity.

I visited Buenos Aires famous cemetery. It is not full of graves but lanes of mausoleums. All the great and good are there including 19 ex presidents. I found Eva Peron's family mausoleum. (see the photo below).

Since the Perons Argentina has had a very unfortunate political history - inept leadership or military juntas.

Argentina is still trying to deal with the aftermath of the "dirty war" when up to 30000 left wing political activists were rounded up and never seen again. Many were young men. Bodies have been found.

One junta was lead by General Galteri. He did two things to deflect the public's attention from how bad things were getting. They staged the 1978 World Cup which they could not afford to do. They actually won it which helped for a while. The other thing Galteri did was invade the Falkland Islands or as they call them in Argentina - The Malvinas.

As part of a walking tour of Buenos Aires our guide first pointed out a clock tower given as a gift by the British to celebrate the centenary of Argentina's independence - I think in 1902. It looks a bit like Big Ben. Built directly in front of the clock is a substancial memorial to the Argentines lost in the battle for the Malvinas. It carries all the names of the 600 plus that died. There are 2 soldiers permanently on guard in very impressive red tunics. This was saying something loud to me.

Our guide was a bit hesitant. I was the only Brit in the group. She looked at me and said I am now going to talk about something which is difficult to talk about! It is very political. I smiled at her. I don't think anyone else in the group had much idea about what was to come.

She started by saying that everyone in Argentina believes the Malvina's are rightfully Argentinian. They learn this at school from a very early age. They also have a national holiday - Malvinas day which is a big deal apparently. They believe the Island's were stolen from them in the 1820's illegally. Nothing will change this national view.

Her mood was somber when she described the 1982 Falklands war. Her point of view was anger at the Argentinian junta who made the decision to invade at the cost of so many young Argentinian lives. Apparently most were conscripts doing national service - some as young as 18. Her point was it was a slaughter - a mismatch taking on the powerful British. We were always going to win and everyone else was on the Brits side too.

I was staggered by her understanding and also quite chastened by how raw the subject is and remains to Argentinians. We are now starting to drill for oil there (and one of Argentina's major economic problems is they have to import all their petrol and oil!) Talk about oil on water!

Anyway I remember the 74 day war very clearly. It was incredibly dramatic. It dominated everything. I had to point out it was far from a certain outcome. The Falklands were 8000 miles away. Our task force was stretched to the limit. We commandeered the QE2 passenger ship as a troop carrier! Argentinian jet fighters had French Exocet missiles. We lost ships as a result including HMS Sheffield with terrible fires and of course SS Atlantic Conveyor. The battle of San Carlos Bay. What is true is once British Troops got on to the Falklands - their famous "yomp" - death of Colonel H Jones etc they were far superior troops. Battle of Goose Green. The Brits lost many lives. It was a truly significant moment in our history. Margaret Thatcher was brave in her determination and will to uphold international law. It made her reputation as the "iron lady". Britain was rightly proud of what it achieved.

There has been a political reconciliation with Argentina. Our guide said she had nothing against the UK but the Malvinas are theirs and should be handed back to them. Argentina is still trying to press its position through the international court system. I wanted to talk about self determination of the Islanders and that there are plenty of examples in the world where land ownership is not logical. I wonder how Canada feels about Alaska now?

The last thing I want to mention - Argentina's money. Argentina it seems has always had a debt crisis or rampant spiraling inflation. Around 2000 Argentina defaulted on its international debt. It was the first country to do so I think. The economy entered depression. This was catastrophic for many Argentinians. Subsequently Argentina has gradually stabilised and the current government started repaying historical debt. However it seems the people and business have little faith in their currency. People save in US dollars. There is "blue" market for them. The current exchange is officially 8 to 9 Argentinian Pesos to one US $. However go into Florida Ave for example and you hear people saying " cambio cambio". They will buy USD notes off you for 12 maybe 12.5 pesos per 1$. Is is sort of illegal but everyone does it. It makes a big difference.

The other odd thing about their money is their largest note is 100 pesos - about £7. Consequently you see people with bundles of notes. I bought something for 21 pesos. Quite often you get let off the 1 peso. Anyway I was asked for it. I found a 2 peso note. No one has a peso coin. I got a sweet instead. A sweet for a peso is common practice!

Argentina is a colourful place to visit. Buenos Aires has charm and is vibrant at times. Much of it has had better days - there isn't the money to maintain all the grand buildings built at the turn of the century - follies now in many ways.

I attach a few photos from my mob.

The Court of Justice. A very chequered history and still a place which attracts plenty of protests

A typical plaza.

A gift from the British.

The Falkland's War (Malvina's) memorial.

Street food. Meat of course!

BA's original skyscraper copied from New York

Many beautiful churches built as family churches in the golden period. The skyscraper above was built to block the view from this church by a jilted lover.