#LakeTiticaca

I am now in La Paz - Bolivia writing my blog. Here goes.

The last part of my stay in Peru was a journey to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca before going out on the lake itself.

I knew of Lake Titicaca from schoolboy days. Maybe it was because of the memorable name - I also knew it was high - the highest lake in the world maybe? I know a bit more now.

To start off I was visiting the largest lake in South America. It looks like a sea but it is freshwater lake of course - about 165k long and 65k wide and very deep in places. It is 60% in Peru and 40% in Bolivia. Our guide said Peru had the Titi part and Bolivia the caca - it got a good laugh!

It is not the highest lake in the world but it is the highest commercially navigable lake in the world at over 3800m - 12500 feet above sea level.

Lake Titicaca is a truly fascinating place. Many many people rely on it for their existence. It has its own micro climate. 20k inland it is at times way below freezing and little grows but on and around the lake it is milder. From my photos below you will see the sea like expanse surrounded by the Andes (many of which are snow capped) - truly beautiful.

The first part of our visit took us to see one of the 80 or so floating island communities. The islands are constructed by tying together bales made out of reed plant roots. The roots float of course. On top of the floating bales they lay pile after pile of reeds to make a floating platform upon which they build reed houses. The reed platforms need constant maintenance but have a life of about 30 years before they start to sink. They don't have electricity, TV or radio. They eat almost entirely fish and reed shoots (which actually were good to eat uncooked). Life is incredibly basic. No shoes. Life expectancy 60. The "President" was an engaging man. He led the five families who lived on the Island. Amazing people can live like it but they were lovely.

We then made a further 3 hour boat journey - to the Island of Amantini - one of the islands still inhabited by the ancient Uros people. I loved the boat ride. Wrapped up warm - but with sun glasses and a cap - because the sun was very bright. I sat up top for most of the time on my own. The lake was massive but flat calm. The colours incredible - the massive snow covered Bolivian Andes on the skyline. It was a great thinking time. Everything seemed so clear and sharp. Incidentally it is amazing to me how many people shoot for cover from the slightest cold or the "threat" of the energising sun.

I had no idea how memorable the next 24 hours were going to be.

Amantani island is truly economically poor. They eat what they grow on the Inca terraces. They catch fish and keep some animals. Again no TV and little communication with the outside world. It is a type of cooperative - a quiet peaceful hardworking community. No machinery.

The Peruvian government have tried to be supportive in order to preserve the few island communities left. Tourism can help them but wisely they have turned down hotel or bar development with the good advice of UNESCO. Their unique answer - to allow tourists to stay in their homes overnight which is what I did. The Peruvian Govt apparently made grants available for solar power for lighting and decent toilets (not showers).

Our host was Salinas. She spoke ancient Quecha the Inca language first and then hesitant Spanish. Fortunately I was also with a couple from Mexico and their Spanish and desire to practice English made it all work out well - the conversation flowed and I was able to ask Salinas questions via interpreter!

Salinas was a very quietly spoken, dignified woman. She had 2 lovely children - shy but so interested. They were 8 and 11.

We had lunch with Salinas and dinner to follow. They eat little meat. Kinwa soup followed by grilled trout and two types of potatoes one of which was black and the other nobbly like ginger. It was so simple in her little baked mud brick house. Wonderful.

Later in the afternoon we trekked to the highest point on the Island. Hard going at 4200m but so worth it. The Island has two small temples on the top - Pachmama and Pachatata. The Islanders apparently largely escaped the Spanish and don't seem to have been converted to Catholicism. At their summer solstice in December I think - they take all their best produce to the temples - burn some in homage to their gods and then have a big party - the highlight of their every year.

I was walking well - got to both temples - about a mile apart. The views were incredible. It was so peaceful and spiritual. On impulse I rounded the outer walls of the temples 3 times - hand in constant contact with the walls - and said a prayer. It seems a bit daft now but at the time it was very moving. We watched the suntset down from Pachatata and while not everyone was as moved as I felt ( who invented a camera on a stick!) it was a special place to be:without doubt.

Later in the evening they arranged a knees up for us (and them) in their village hall. A lively Peruvian band - plently of panpipes - we were kitted out in panchos etc. We all danced around in circles - holding hands with Salinas and her cheeky little daughter. It was a specisl thing to do.

We trailed back in the dark but under an amazing starlit southern sky. Salinas's husband is the only baker on the island and he was hard at work. We bought six rolls/baps for 1 Soles - about 20p and ate them in the courtyard. They were great.

Just to emphasise how isolated the Island is Salinas had been to Puno twice in her life - nowhere else. We returned to Puno next morning!

I hope things go well for these lovely people.

Here are some photos from my mob - camera ones to follow.