#RiodeJaneiro further impressions

I have been based in Ipanema - a brilliant little hostel called The Lighthouse - recommended definitely.

Ipanema is regarded as up market Rio. It has a brasher adjoining neighbour - Copacabana. Together they make up the most famous areas in Rio apart perhaps from the Maracana Stadium.

All the guide books say Rio is safe enough providing you are wary and sensible but at the same time warning that crime is rife. Theft and mugging is apparently endemic. Is this a story out of perspective and self fulfilling - definitely not. It is real. Crime and violence is a major and apparently an increasing problem and maybe a problem too big to solve. Tourists be on your guard! I have felt Ipanema was fine. Sunday walking along Copacabana - colourful yes - vibrant yes - but I saw one fight and the whole atmosphere is "dodgy". It is not a place to relax. Anyway I get back to Ipanema asap - a more sophisticated cafe bar culture and a much nicer atmosphere on the beach.

Despite the relaxed atmosphere as advised I take nothing to the beach other than the clothes I wear and a "canga" - a thin colourful beach towel which is very practical to use. In fact so practical I decide to buy one as a present for each of the 7 adult members of my immediate family. I speak to a beach hawker - one of many. He wants 35 pesos - about £7 each. I agree 7 for 175 pesos. Could I have got them for less. Possibly. Anyway I have no cash on me. I agree to meet in 30 minutes to give me time to go back to the hostel to get the money. I choose 7 colourful ones. A very proper market transaction. We shake hands. They will be great for the beach in Cornwall. Anyway the seller folds them nicely. Puts them in a plastic bag. Excellent. I then decide to spend a last half hour in the sun. The beach is busy around me. I stretch out in the sun and close my eyes. The carrier bag is by my shoulder. Not for long. I hear sand against the bag. I jump up. Some fucker has nicked it. How did they do it? I start to look around accusingly. Was it wandering hawkers tipping off the thieves. Did they kick it away and pick it up later. I am mad with indignation. I prowl the beach for a minute or two. Then I think even if I could identify the thief would it really be sensible to take them on. The answer has to be no although if I knew who it was I think I would have been on them despite my best advice. They are too professional. No sign.

Anyway the lesson. Give them a chance they will be on you. If you place yourself in a vulnerable position they will take it off you despite you. Everyone I have talked too including the Brazilian hostel owner had been properly mugged on more than one occasion. The hostel owner asked me if I had seen many old people around. The answer was no. The reason - they are in hiding - terrified of being robbed. This is no way to live. It taints so much about Rio.

OK that is a big negative rant. A positive one. The beach especially early morning is a fantastic place to be. Although there is a busy road behind the beach it is well back. It is not intrusive in any way. The beach is wide and long. Maybe 3 times longer than Sennen, Cornwall. It is thoroughly cleaned - the sand wonderfully soft and golden. The Atlantic crashes in - noisy and natural = it is surf beach on a good day. The tide line is a memorable place to jog along - the granite hump back islands that surround and the skyscrapers behind add to the atmosphere as does the all sorts of people doing their early morning thing. It feels special - Rio is iconic - is there a beach to be on that is more so? I have jogged for the last 4 mornings - often in the refreshing Atlantic fringes. I haven't stopped smiling. Just can't get over the wow! Just brilliant. Worth coming for this experience alone I think.

I have met some lovely Brazilian people while I have been here. When the language is not an issue I probe about life in Brazil. I do so with BRIC in mind - Brazil emerging as one of the world's fast developing and most significant economic power houses. They universally scoff at this. They are adamant it is all going wrong in Brazil. They seem even reluctant to be proud Brazilians. Why?

The answer is corruption at every level especially at the highest levels of government and corporate state giants, plus a diabolical crime trend and cost of living increases. Things are not getting done. Life is getting harder. There is so much disillusion. People really do not believe in their politicians. They are totally sick of the lies, manipulation and corruption.

Another nice Brazilian explained the problem with Brazil is Brazilians. Brazil is a samba society. Brazilians always look for the easy option. Opportunists in the worse sense. The same student explained that politicians are in the main corrupt but so are most people. Everyone is at it if they can. This is a harsh generalisation I am sure but it did not come from me.

In the news right now - Petrobras - state owned - the biggest company in Brazil. It has just been announced $60billion has been lost to fraud. There is no explanation. Revenues to the economy from this company is apparently crucial. The government are now planning welfare cuts to respond to the revenue loss.

No one wants the Olympics it seems simply because the man in the street does not benefit. Money feathers the nest of the rich elite - they learnt that from what happened from the world cup - the opposite of legacy.

On a lighter note - beach football. It is a great spectacle. On the shoreline - groups of 4 or 6 playing keepie up - girls join in too and can hold their own. There might be dozens of groups at a time. They are very good - all the skills - chest, knees - back heels - back of the neck. Great stuff. I joined in one - got a bit carried away. Crapo! One thing I did notice - the ball is not fully inflated - it makes it easier to control - the ball flattens on you rather than ping off. I had a laugh with a guy at the hostel. He said a lot of people have skills on the beach but they are crap on the pitch!

It is no news Brazil is football crazy. What is surprising is crowds at their premiership games are poor. It is all TV. As a country they have not got over the 7 - 1 world cup defeat to Germany. It hurt their psyche. I spoke to 2 Brazilians who now hate football. The reason - the country is going to pot but so many people are so wrapped up in football they are either unaware or don't care.

Two final observations - Rio buildings not very impressive. Plenty of modernish smallish skyscrapers and some poorly maintained older buildings mainly in the French style.

My final thought. Brazil has everything. Oil, gas, gold, minerals, massive areas of fertile land, a wonderful coast - tourism, the Amazon. What are they making of it. Definitely not enough. Brazil has so many advantages but corruption, endemic crime a polarised political situation and mananna is undermining what could and should be achieved. I am not optimistic about Brazil's future.

The Lagoon

Sugarloaf

Garota de Ipanema - the bar where the famous song Girl from Ipanema was written.

Across to Christ the Redeemer from the top of Sugarloaf

Petrobras headquarters. Fantastic building although one put in the list of the world,s most ugly buildings. A major corruption unfolding there now that might bring down the countries President.