#India PT 20 health, food and final thoughts India Nov 2015

Final reflections on India

I have spent a month in India. I have travelled from Kolcata in the east across the major north to Mumbai in the west and then down the west coast to touch Kerala and Goa. I have travelled by train. I have met a lot of people and talked hugely about India. Of course I have only made a small scratch. How can I know India? But I know it better now than I did a month ago.

Here are some thoughts and some context.

Before I set them down  just a few comments about health and food - for many people a big concern when considering India as a destination.

I am delighted and relieved to report in the whole month not a single problem. I have been lucky although I am not aware of anyone telling me they had been ill.

My approach was cautious because I was travelling alone :-

• I only ate Indian food apart from one KFC!
• I never ate salads or peeled fruit even as garnishes.
• I only drank bottled water. You are always provided with a metal mug of water but I didn't drink it. (although I pretty sure it was fine). I used bottled water for teeth cleaning too.
• In the main I ate veg based meals most of the time - no hardship whatsoever - it is easy to be vegetarian in India.
• However I subsequently had fish in Kerala and Goa and some chicken and mutton.
• I ate plenty of hot street food. Wonderful.
• My simple rule - only eat in the busiest places or the busiest vendors. Eat with the locals.

Food in India is a total pleasure. Something outstanding. The variety - the spicing. Just incredible and so common place. Have a go at anything. I wanted to remember the names of the dishes I ate but failed to keep a record. I photographed a lot and attach some below!

Mosquitos - not a significant problem even at dawn and dusk. However they are around. I always wore long trousers and long sleeves. Paul and June told me about the local brand of cream repellent - Odomol. It was effective and cheap and nice to use. Thank you! 

Back to my thoughts and observations.

First of all and undoubtedly India is a wonderful country. I am so glad I came. It has been truly a monumental experience and India will always now have a place in my heart. I shall always remember the lovely people perhaps that more than anything. I wish them so well in their lives - lives which at times appear to be not much more than a battle to survive to the next day.

I have been preoccupied with thoughts about where India is heading. India is the I in the BRIC acronym - now perhaps the fastest growing economy in the world. A new economic power house. But in my view nothing is assured. India has a battle on its hands to build a sustainable future and to lift so many of its people out of the grinding poverty that is totally commonplace.

It has several things going for it. Probably most importantly they have a deeply embedded democracy. Secondly it has a deeply religious tradition. This might sound a touch inconsistent from an atheist but I recognise the Hindu ethos ( and for that matter the Muslim Indian ethos) and the alcoholic abstinence that is required is a force for good behaviour. India is in the round a peaceful place and has a great tradition of tolerance - that is evidently not being seen in many other countries. India is largely a cohesive society and this gives them an opportunity to build a better future rather than waste time and energy (and lives) fighting over some ancient religious or tribal argument. It also has the world's biggest potential workforce and a strong tradition of valuing education and the benefits that accrue from it. Indians are also business minded. They want to get on. All these are positive things.

There are some clouds though - some big ones.

The first is its population - India is overcrowded and population is growing rapidly. This presents India with so many difficulties. Fundamentally - enough affordable food - housing - health care and education as well as the ability to create a modern infrastructure that can cope. India is in the main a grinding place to operate in. Roads are so often gridlocked and of course the extremes of climate make it harder still at times. One consequence is air pollution. It is a big issue. The cities are not an environment I would want to live in it for very long. It is a long-term health issue - combined with the fact that India is a hard place to exercise in. You rarely see joggers. The majority of Indians can barely swim. Commuters in to the big cities have brutally long days - so time is an issue too. Middle ranking Indians are getting fatter too. Obesity is on the horizon. There is also so much rubbish and discarded plastic evident all around India. I visited in November - it was hot - but to be there in the height of summer must be close to unbearable for a traveller and I would definitely avoid it.

The next is the dreaded corruption phenomenon. People believe it is bad. Many believe politicians are only really interested in feathering their own nest. I have written about corruption before in my blogs. I think it is killing the Brazilian economy. Let's hope India can keep it in check.

I mentioned religious tolerance. Many people stressed how important it is and how much they want to live in peace and live and let live. But there is a commentary that the current prime minister Mr Modi is too pro Hindu. Others have denied this and simply says in reflects that Hindus are about 80% of the population. Let's hope again their tradition of religious harmony can be maintained. Earlier in the year I was in Turkey. Same issue but there it was Muslims being favoured. It is at the very least demotivating and bound to be a hindrance if people in power use created division to further their own agendas.

Another cloud might be the increasing westernisation of traditional Indian culture. This doesn't have to be a bad thing but many young people ape a western lifestyle especially the educated ones. I have just been in Goa. The majority of tourists are now Indians. They are using the bars - they have the designer gear. India is experiencing quite rapid change. Can it hold it all together? One thing so prized is as elsewhere gradually breaking down - and that is the security and continuity offered by the family unit. Young people are moving away to work. The family care system is no longer as secure. One of the growth businesses is elderly care homes!

Just two other observations. The Indian economy has been booming. There is real wealth here. Mumbai has hundreds of millionaires. But nothing has changed much for the poor. India has hi tec business yes - but it is also one of the world’s sweat shops. Poor people working for peanuts. It is hard to see how this can change and not create mass unemployment because the west will always move its factories to where wages are lowest. If you have a wealth gap getting ever bigger eventually something will have to give. Maybe India will be able to achieve what Japan achieved. When I was a boy everything cheap was made in Japan. Now Japanese products are quality and carry high added value and wages improved. One big vision from Mr Modi is to try to arrest chronic rural poverty by starting village factories and educate not to have so many children!

The last one. I have spoken to quite a few bright young Indians on my travels. They want to move to the West. They do not believe India can ever compete with the West - that rewards for skills and talent will never amount to enough for them. They can do better elsewhere. I have asked would you intend to come back? Why would I want to do that if I can get a base in the West! India is haemorging talented ambitious young people. The West’s gain. India's loss.

These are some of the clouds I see.

But please do not get me wrong. India has momentum. It is a truly fascinating place. So diverse. Sometimes so beautiful. Wonderful rivers. Outstanding wild life. Great food. All those spices. (so easy to be a vegetarian in India.) Sometimes so simple otherwise so complex. It's history is mind boggling. You could loose yourself for a lifetime very easily. As I have said the people are lovely. Being in India is challenging yes, frustrating at times yes but there are rewards everyday - sometimes staggering ones. The Taj Mahal. Amazing. I will always defend India against its detractors. It is a truly great country with real heart and common humanity. Let's hope it can keep it.

Thank you India for a trip that I think in some ways will be life changing for me. We are so lucky.

#Indrail PT 19 India Nov 2015

I have just spent a month in India and covered a lot of distance - mainly by overnight sleeper train. I have listed my experiences below. I emphasise this was my first time in India and I in no way claim to be any sort of expert on India trains but what I have found may help you.

• First of all there is a big difference between local trains and inter city express trains. The local ones are legendary for their chaos with people hanging out the doors. I am not writing about local trains but the fully fledged express train service.
• Once I had decided on India I used the brilliant web site Seat 61 for advice - the inside track!
• Rail travel in India is the main form of transport for both passengers and freight. The rail network is comprehensive and Indrail’s reputation is good for both price and safety. However the ticket booking system is confusing. I still do not understand it.
• What Seat 61 emphasised is that berths on the good trains get snapped up quickly and therefore the sooner you can book the better. I am talking 2 or 3 months ahead.
• You can book your own tickets from the UK I believe but it is problematic.
• Seat 61 recommended considering using a booking agent and gave the name of S.D.E.L. as a suggestion. They were really excellent. I sent them my proposed itinerary and dates. They came back quickly with a proposal and a price. I booked through them.
• I was advised AC2 class tickets and that is what I went with. My months travelling - 12 train journeys - sometimes including meals cost £167. Brilliant value.
• My Indrail pass came through promptly with the journeys specified. It then gets a touch more bureaucratic and confusing. In a nutshell somewhere nearer the journey time each individual trip is confirmed with a PNR number issued. This number is key. It also shows your carraige and allocated seat number - which you definitely need to save a massive amount of hassle. SDEL emailed me my PNR’s when they were issued and I was able to check my bookings on the Indrail website as confirmation. That is all you need to do.
• AC2 is fine - not luxurious by any means but it is all you need. There are cheaper classes including non AC 3 tier bunks. It is a matter of choice and budget of course but I would suggest AC2 is  a good compromise and it is the class used by middle ranking Indians I would say.
• AC2 has 4 bunks with 2 more across the aisle. Two passengers normally sit on the bottom bunk until you agree it is time to make up the beds.
• You are individually issued with a thick blanket (never needed), a pillow, a small cotton towel and an old style brown paper parcel containing your two proper (and welll laundered and pressed) cotton sheets.
• I slepped well but one or two personal things help. I always used a silk sleeping bag liner. It feels more personal and if the sheet comes off it is OK. I would also suggest eye covers and ear plugs.
• It can be a bit noisy - mobile phones especially and people moving around and talking. Lights can go off and on too as passengers come and go.
• Toilets are functional and basically kept clean but you don’t feel you want to hang around in them. There is usually a western style toilet too! Nothing to fear.
• I use wet wipes and mouth wash to keep myself lovely - ha!
• Food - depending on the express you are sometimes provided with free meals or you can order food cheaply. It is basic but I would trust it. You are almost always given a bottle of free water. At other times there are people selling food and drinks.
• Security. The are warnings about bags and shoes being stolen while you are asleep. There are warnings about the dangers of taking food and drink from overly friendly travellers. They drug you and rob you! However AC carriages are kept separate from other carriages and while I took precautions and was careful I never felt uneasy. Your personal things are potentially more at risk if your bunk is the top bunk. Like many travellers I invested in a link chain and padlock to secure my bags to the bed and kept my money and passport by my pillow.
• Finding your carraige and berth. From your PNR you can find the information you need. I think you can print tickets off the website in advance. I never did this. All you need for the inspector is the Indrail Pass and a note of the PNR and occasionally your passport ID. The trains are incredibly long so you need to understand how to find your carraige quickly because once on the train you cannot move all the way through it. AC carriages seem to always be towards the front. There is usually a board somewhere on the platform wall showing the train layout and you can count back your carraige from the engine. The platform too is usually numbered with the carraige number that will stop next to it.

A couple of other things :

• There are some elaborate scams. The idea is to get you to rebook your journey with them. You are told your train is not running and you have to take an alternative route. The favourite place for this to happen is just as you go on the platform you have to put your luggage through a scanner. They stop you there. Ask to see your ticket. I was prior warned but still almost fell for it. They are incredibly plauseable and practised. Just at the last minute I came to my senses and insisted I wanted to go through into the platform. My train had not been cancelled!
• Always go to the pre pay counter out side the station exit to sort taxis. I did request one or two of the hostels to meet me at the station but the problem with this is timing. The trains are sometimes late. 

Booking trains in India. I never did it but I met travellers who did do it. As I said trains are usually fully booked but they keep a percentage back for last minute or emergency travel as I understand it. I think it works like this. I believe you can enter your name on a list and you move up it until you get a berth or not. Confirmation might be last minute and I think is more expensive. Seat 61 explains how to log into a site called Clear Track ( or something like that) which makes online booking possible and easier otherwise you are in the hands of a booking agent.

I set off from England with my trains booked and paid for. I knew exactly my plan. I was very lucky - it worked out to the letter - and as a solo traveller this was very reassuring and easy.  However many travellers want flexibility or plans change. I have no experience on how to handle that. Beware India had hundreds of Tourist Information points but almost all of them should actually be called Travel Agents!

To sum up. Rail travel is the way to go in India. It is economical, it feels safe, you often have a view of India as it goes by but particularly you meet and chat to people. I have learned so much from long conversations with fellow Indian travellers. I recommend it without any significant reservation. 

#India PT 18 more observations India Nov 2015

#India PT 18 more observations India Nov 2015

Here are a few more bit and pieces that have come my way or have occurred to me while I have been here. In no particular order!

• India is an extremely competitive place. Placed in the same situation I have thought what would I do to make a living. One big problem would be copying or barging in. It seems if one does it and has some success it is quickly duplicated. That can happen anywhere of course but it definitely happens here. On this theme it is easy to be judgemental about how people live and go about things. I think it is a false conclusion for us westerners to feel we would soon rise above the crowd if we were dealt the same hand of cards.
• Personal space. I have had to learn fast. Customs are much different here - they have to be. An example. You are sat on a bench resting your legs - nice and peaceful - it is my territory in my mind. Along comes an Indian family and sits all round me. No excuse me - would you mind if we sit here. I think the cheeky devils this is my seat - buzz off! However they have no idea I think they are being rude - it does not occur to them they are doing something wrong or offensive. They are not  - ha! In an ultra crowded country with well over a billion people - you perch where you can - it is accepted - it is normal and no one gets upset - just sqeeze in! I have had to learn this quickly otherwise you would continually be stressed in India!
• Be careful where you sit. I have just been startled by a crashing falling coconut. It could have been worse. I remember on my last big trip which included some time in the Amazon basin the guide explained at certain times of the year in is unsafe to move around in the rain forest. Brazil nuts are housed inside a hard outer casing about football size. They kill.
• Political corruption is a reoccurring theme. I have talked to several Indian businessmen and apart from population growth they feel graft and patronage is seriously damaging India's future prospects. I have written about this before. Once it gets hold it is so hard to shift and percolates down to all aspects of society. The state of Bihar had been in the news while I have been here. See http://m.firstpost.com/politics/with-tejashwi-and-tej-pratap-lalu-has-strengthend-his-dynasty-in-bihar-2519636.html After winning the state election the winners young sons with limited academic attainment apparently now become cabinet ministers with all sorts of perks including a huge bungalow each. Thankfully freedom of the press in the UK keeps vigilant in exposing this type of behaviour. A very important - indeed crucial thing.
• Tuk Tuk drivers frequently ask you to do favours. Just let me take you to one shop. They will get a T shirt or a litre of fuel etc. I just smile and say sorry I can't do that and move on.
• I was only in one downpour. The rain was those lovely big warm drops. A lot of people enjoy the monsoon. Rain really brings out the smells.
• I think the hot season must be unbearable. India is a massive country where areas have local climates of course but I would never recommend coming here in the summer.
• You see a lot of Tourist Information offices. Beware most are private businesses. They are travel agents.
• Indian young men smile. They want photos taken with you and to impress you with their knowledge of Premiership Football. They are not aggressive or surly like so often in the UK.
• Kerala has shut down most of its bars by government order. The reason - Indians drinking too much and becoming problematic. You now see long queues at government controlled off licences.
• I have watched quite a bit of cricket here. I think the best view comes from behind the bowlers arm.

#Goa PT 17 India Nov 2015

I travelled up to Goa on the overnight Ravjani Express from Kerala. I woke early morning after a good nights sleep and laid on my bottom bunk watching the scene out of the window for a couple of hours. Is was not practical to take photos so I just took it all in. As I mentioned before the Keralian countryside and then running into the small state of Goa is absolutely lovely. India must be an ornithologists dream. The number of birds, their colours, sculptural just stood in the fields - eye-catching on the wing.. A special view in themselves. But there is so much more to catch your eye. The broadleaved banana, the erect coconut palm in proliferation as a back drop - the postage stamp little fields at various stages of green as crops are rotated - snaking raised paths - skinny farmers ploughing with bullocks in harness, children playing on their way to school, patterns of little cuped haystacks, fishermen poling their narrow canoes on the backwaters. Locals carrying a load balanced on their head - the women dobit so gracefully. Lots of ponds and small lakes. Paddy fields with ladies in sarhees stooped working in them. Great scenes.

I hadn't really done my homework properly. The main train station is in South Goa. I had booked to stay in North Goa at Calangute. I had thought about changing it especially as I had heard N Goa is far more commercial but in the end after a months travelling I just thought go with it and relax. I took a tuk tuk to Calangute. 900IR so not a disaster. It was about an hour I think. It was pretty evident right from the off that Goa is a holiday place. Busy yes - very much so but not chaotic as much of the north.

I get to my hostel but it is a hotel with a dormitory. 6 beds in the dorm but only me and an American with his daughter. The dorm is great, large, spotless and cool. Excellent wi fi, a swimming pool, there are Indian and British guests staying in the proper accommodation above. For £6 a night brilliant value and outstanding after the excellent breakfast they served.

I get myself sorted and then walk down to the famed Calangute beach. Yes it is commercial. Yes it is busy but it really is a wonderful beach. It is truely huge. Wide deep soft sand and must be miles long. There is space for everyone. Jet skis, parchutes off the back of speed boats, bars galore, people strolling, many many Indians having fun and playing games. Big waves rolling in many swimming, life guards patrolling, music playing. It is very clean. It is not claustrophobic in any way. It is a great beach, somehow with everything happening it remains serene. Maybe it is the sound of the waves and the acres and acres of sand soaking up all the energy.  I can happily spend a few days here. I am glad I came already. Later I have my first swim in the Arabian Sea. Wow the sand is so soft under foot, the water clear and so warm. Some big waves. Fantastic. Amazing to be in after a month of hot travel.

Later I have a beer. Much cheaper in Goa than anywhere else I have been in India because unlike the rest of India Goa is not mainly a dry state. Bars are common place. I talk to many Brits. A lot have been coming for years. I ask about changes. This is what I was told. Calangute is of course busier than it was years ago but two things have happened in the last year or too that has been positive. Firstly the main holiday makers now are Indian. This is great. People watching - the beach experience is a new one to many Indians. The other is the Russian invasion has been curbed and very significantly reduced. Part explanation - sanctions against Russia for their invasion of the Ukraine is hurting business and a lot of Russians can no longer afford to travel. Secondly the government in Goa have deliberately increased the travel costs to Russians by increasing visa and landing fees. Apparently local businesses complained about hard drinking Russians walking out of restaurants without paying and the same with taxis. As I understand it foreigners can no longer by property in Goa. All good if it stops the place losing its character.

So my Goa experience is very limited. Apparently the are many beautiful pristine beaches to be found. I could imagine a holiday here. Your £ goes a long way and the food available is fantastic in every way. Just avoid some of the bars full of hard drinking Brits at sun down - oh and the guys on the beach that want to clean your ears with long tweezers. They make out they have removed something from your ear and then want to charge for a full decoke. No thanks!

My last paragraph. I shall share a silly morning with you. Apologies at the outset for the juvenality!

My daughters in laws, Paul and June know Goa very well. They suggested a visit to Panjim might be a nice thing to do. Public bus to Betim - free ferry to Panjim. I set out. Indian buses are the cheapest form of travel. They wizz around in their bashed up body work. They are often full and chaotic. A full on Indian experience. I have a seat. I people watch. People come and go. One youngish guy gets on raging shouting at the driver. The only time I saw anything like it in India. We all want to know the problem. I thought maybe the bus had knocked him off his bike. It turns out he is the boss. He collects money. Blows a referees whistle to give instructions to the driver. On money it comes to my time to pay. I had watched people hand over 10 & 20 notes. He wants 50 off me ha! Anyway - apologies again. I am in a daft relaxed mood. For some reason I cannot get a scene out of my mind from my last stay - in Kerala. At the hostel you could cook your own food. Another guest was a French lady. She was very nice but had a nasally French accent - reminded me of Inspector Closseau. She had bought some eggs. David have you had a crêpe (before), David would you like a crêpe, David would you like another crêpe. David did you enjoy the crêpe. I tried not to laugh - silly boy - but I can't get her accent or her unfortunate questions out of my head. I make some up. David would you like tea or coffee with your crêpe. When did you last have a crêpe - ha! I was already grinning on the bus. Then I looked at the signs above the front rows of seats. Women , seniors - is that me? and "handicaps"! Handicaps  This is India. I started speculating the outcry if this was the term used on a UK bus. It made me chuckle again. I think the term now would be " with disability ". Anyway an Indian lady started watching me. She must have thought I was mad. Stupid grin! Anyway last stop Betim. Where is the free ferry? I am in the middle of a huge bus terminal. Eventually I give up trying to get directions. I get a tuk tuk. How much 70. How far about 2km? I know this can't be right. The slowest tuk tuk drive ever. Still there in 3 minutes. 50 over charged! I am at the ferry. It is a bit like the East Cowes floating bridge. Another mad Indian moment. Everyone including motorbikes rush on before the others can get off. Chaos. I get to the other side. Where is Panjim. Am I here? A choice left or right. I say Panjim. He says bus two minutes. I get on. I sense something is wrong. In no time We are across a big bridge - I am back in the bus terminus at Betim! Laugh or cry. I decide to get my act together. I was switched off. First rule of trekking. Have a map. I buy one. Yes confirmed - I had been to Panjim. What to do. Have another go or get back to Calangute and have a swim in the sea. It's hot. The sea wins. Tuk tuk back 350. Great. ( I subsequently look at Lonely Planet Panjim has a population of 115000 and somehow I missed it. I shall have to come another year and seek out the Plantin Leaf Restaurant!

I chat to a family from Birmingham. What are you up to this afternoon. Going down to the beach. They laugh. They say we call that one " pants beach". They said a lot of the Indian boys haven't got much and go in in their pants. She is right. I am walking along. A group of very dark skinned Indian lads stop me. Photo photo. Initially I say no because I immediately think they were probably working some scam but it is OK - they genuinely do just want a photo - I have been asked quite a few times. We line up. I think these lads are Tamils. Anyway one turns to me and says you look just like my dad! I take it as a compliment. I walk on. Some other lads are flinging a tennis ball to each other. The ball rolls down to me. I pick it up and choose to throw it underarm the 10 yards. Horror - I don't release my fingers properly. The ball goes just off vertical up - lands behind me. What a buerk! They are laughing. I fumble a regather and donkey drop it back to the nearest lad. He is going to have some fun. He piches one at me. I stick out my arm. A decent one handed catch. Thank goodness! I pitch it back  - he slings it back harder. Another catch. They clap. Some honour restored. I try the old trick. Look at one guy - throw it to another. He catches it easily. Time to move on before I come unstuck again. We all laugh. The Indians are nice people.

#Kerala PT16 India 2015

From Mumbai I made the long sleeper train journey down to Kochi (Cochin) right down on the southwest coast. ( I intend to write a separate blog about using trains in India ).

The state of Kerala is a narrow coastal strip renowned for its coastline and the backwaters - a beautiful and very extensive water way system that exists between the Western Ghats ( a chain of mountains running north to south) and the parrellel coast.

Kerala is a beautiful green area. The state motto is God's own country. It is still a busy place but much gentler and cleaner than the north. It is a tourist area and because of a lack of well paid jobs a second home area for Indians working abroad or in Mumbai. There are far more westerners around and in some instances the dreaded coach tour!

Kerala has a reputation for religious tolerance more than any state in India. There are churches, temples and mosques everywhere but on the whole low key. On Sunday I  went out on a hired bike and found my way. All th churches appeared to be full and thriving. Everyone seems to have religion.

I did a one day backwater tour on a day boat with about 10 other people. The boats have no engines - just bamboo poles with a man on the front and back. The backwaters weave and run for hundreds of kilometres along the strip which is Kerala. The water runs off the Western Ghats and I guess gets locked in. In the main the water is freshwater but as I understand during the dry season when levels drop sea water can penetrate. The backwaters are lovely indeed. The banks are dotted with small farms and particularly homes of fishermen. The backwaters form a special quiet place - no cars of course and motor boats are very restricted. I think the backwaters could be truly extraordinary if you had time to penetrate deeper. The bird life is very exotic and a great spectacle. This is not exaggerating. We watched a group of red winged eagles diving for fish like Terns. If you want party action please do not go there - it is not a place for you.

One hot bit of insight. It is universally understood India is cricket mad. But from what I have seen football is catching up fast. Countless times I have been engaged by Indians who want to talk about football. I have spent some enjoyable time watching boys playing football in bare feet. Some of them are really excellent. I seen one boy this morning who looked outstanding to me and a skinny lad of about 14. If I was an English scout I would have signed him up. They want to win the world cup one day they say. They well might. One stupid bit of vanity - I am dying to join in and show them what an old pro can do - take it on the chest and bang in a volley - dream on - ha!

Another tuk tuk adventure. I am walking in Fort Kochi (the old part of Kochi and where I am staying). I only arrived in the late morning. Tuk tuk pulls up. Usual patter. Where you from sir etc etc. He says big tour - all the sights 100. £1. I think it would be good to get my bearings. I say OK 100 no shops! He is likeable and his English is pretty good. He starts telling me all sorts of interesting stuff. I know it is going to end up costing me more than a £1 - he is subtle though! He says have to be quick - famous Dutch church closing - I have to drive very fast. Great smiles from him when we get there. He is proud - but also done me a big favour. Other places we go. Long way sir -  4 kilometres but you will like - I will give you the best tour - a Hindu temple, the ginger and spice market and the old style hand wash laundry  and ironing using a great heavy irons heated by red embers. He escorts me in to these places. One photo one photo. He is making it all happen for me - he is pushing the boundaries so I am seeing it all! He takes me to the Women's Cooperative. Kerala is an outstanding producer of spices. The Malabar Coast. It is what all the Europeans came here for. Great smells. Ginger, pepper, chilli, coriander, cumin, curry leaves, star annise etc etc sacks of the stuff! The Women's Cooperative make up curry blends and attach hand written recipes to them. The Indian Ladies were great fun. They were teasing me in the end - getting me to smell men's and ladies oils for my wife. No wife giggle giggle! I bought 6 packets of various spice mixes for fish and meat and vegetable plus some ginger tea. They did a great selling job on me. I was mugged. Brilliant. Let's hope I can get it all through customs! Back to the tuk tuk man. By now time has gone on. I have seen a lot and really enjoyed it. Cost is in the back of my mind. What shall I pay him!? One favour for me sir ( as I have done so many for you!) Will you go to one shop! How can I refuse - ha! He drops me at quite an impressive store. Indian ethnic things some you would need a palace to house. I humour them. Look at one or or two things. Ask about price. I explain I have just arrived and here for a few days. I will think about it overnight and decide which one I want. This is always a good way to pacify them I have found.

Finally we have been miles - a grand tour. I give him 500 - £5. I have been with him for nearly 4 hours. He is really delighted. I have paid more than he expected - maybe it was just the fact I offered it. Some miserable devils might have held him to the original 100. My attitude is we are both happy. It is not the same as when a taxi driver tries to charge you double fare. Anyway I ask him about a place I have been told is good to eat at for later. He offers to pick me up from my homestay for nothing and as a friendly gesture. We shake hands. They are not dishonest but they are cute. They have to be. I am prepared to meet them half way.

Anyway sort of a punchline. Next day I hire a push bike. I ride around and it begins to dawn on me that all these places I have seen are all close together - one almost opposite another but it would have been too easy to cross the road - best drive a bit first - ha! I chuckle to myself. Brilliant stuff. Harmless. I have seen him several times since to chat. A good guy operating in a tough business. Respect to him - he pushed the boundaries yes but he did it with style in my view and I have a bag full of spices to prove it! ha ha!

I didn't mention the Chinese nets - a big draw because they are a real and unusual spectacle. I thought at first they were a kind of catapult that fired the fish nets out. In fact they lower and raise them by counterbalanced rocks and the labour of 4 or 5 men. They dip the net for 10 minutes and then lift the fish out. The fished looked small but the system works! Maybe We should set one up at Seaview!

Kerala is lovely - especially the people. I would come back to it. Off to Goa tonight. Have had good and bad reports. Let's give it a go and find out.

Chinese nets. A fishing contraption.

Breakfast at the homestay

and lunch in the Backwaters

The ancient Dutch church

Football crazy - even as it gets dark

Scenes from the backwaters

Gandhi's wisdom everywhere

Thumbs up at the net. On my bike.

An old British name. Thousands of them being ridden in India. This was a special one and much bigger than the norm.

My overnight express. It was just as long looking in the other direction.