I travelled up to Goa on the overnight Ravjani Express from Kerala. I woke early morning after a good nights sleep and laid on my bottom bunk watching the scene out of the window for a couple of hours. Is was not practical to take photos so I just took it all in. As I mentioned before the Keralian countryside and then running into the small state of Goa is absolutely lovely. India must be an ornithologists dream. The number of birds, their colours, sculptural just stood in the fields - eye-catching on the wing.. A special view in themselves. But there is so much more to catch your eye. The broadleaved banana, the erect coconut palm in proliferation as a back drop - the postage stamp little fields at various stages of green as crops are rotated - snaking raised paths - skinny farmers ploughing with bullocks in harness, children playing on their way to school, patterns of little cuped haystacks, fishermen poling their narrow canoes on the backwaters. Locals carrying a load balanced on their head - the women dobit so gracefully. Lots of ponds and small lakes. Paddy fields with ladies in sarhees stooped working in them. Great scenes.
I hadn't really done my homework properly. The main train station is in South Goa. I had booked to stay in North Goa at Calangute. I had thought about changing it especially as I had heard N Goa is far more commercial but in the end after a months travelling I just thought go with it and relax. I took a tuk tuk to Calangute. 900IR so not a disaster. It was about an hour I think. It was pretty evident right from the off that Goa is a holiday place. Busy yes - very much so but not chaotic as much of the north.
I get to my hostel but it is a hotel with a dormitory. 6 beds in the dorm but only me and an American with his daughter. The dorm is great, large, spotless and cool. Excellent wi fi, a swimming pool, there are Indian and British guests staying in the proper accommodation above. For £6 a night brilliant value and outstanding after the excellent breakfast they served.
I get myself sorted and then walk down to the famed Calangute beach. Yes it is commercial. Yes it is busy but it really is a wonderful beach. It is truely huge. Wide deep soft sand and must be miles long. There is space for everyone. Jet skis, parchutes off the back of speed boats, bars galore, people strolling, many many Indians having fun and playing games. Big waves rolling in many swimming, life guards patrolling, music playing. It is very clean. It is not claustrophobic in any way. It is a great beach, somehow with everything happening it remains serene. Maybe it is the sound of the waves and the acres and acres of sand soaking up all the energy. I can happily spend a few days here. I am glad I came already. Later I have my first swim in the Arabian Sea. Wow the sand is so soft under foot, the water clear and so warm. Some big waves. Fantastic. Amazing to be in after a month of hot travel.
Later I have a beer. Much cheaper in Goa than anywhere else I have been in India because unlike the rest of India Goa is not mainly a dry state. Bars are common place. I talk to many Brits. A lot have been coming for years. I ask about changes. This is what I was told. Calangute is of course busier than it was years ago but two things have happened in the last year or too that has been positive. Firstly the main holiday makers now are Indian. This is great. People watching - the beach experience is a new one to many Indians. The other is the Russian invasion has been curbed and very significantly reduced. Part explanation - sanctions against Russia for their invasion of the Ukraine is hurting business and a lot of Russians can no longer afford to travel. Secondly the government in Goa have deliberately increased the travel costs to Russians by increasing visa and landing fees. Apparently local businesses complained about hard drinking Russians walking out of restaurants without paying and the same with taxis. As I understand it foreigners can no longer by property in Goa. All good if it stops the place losing its character.
So my Goa experience is very limited. Apparently the are many beautiful pristine beaches to be found. I could imagine a holiday here. Your £ goes a long way and the food available is fantastic in every way. Just avoid some of the bars full of hard drinking Brits at sun down - oh and the guys on the beach that want to clean your ears with long tweezers. They make out they have removed something from your ear and then want to charge for a full decoke. No thanks!
My last paragraph. I shall share a silly morning with you. Apologies at the outset for the juvenality!
My daughters in laws, Paul and June know Goa very well. They suggested a visit to Panjim might be a nice thing to do. Public bus to Betim - free ferry to Panjim. I set out. Indian buses are the cheapest form of travel. They wizz around in their bashed up body work. They are often full and chaotic. A full on Indian experience. I have a seat. I people watch. People come and go. One youngish guy gets on raging shouting at the driver. The only time I saw anything like it in India. We all want to know the problem. I thought maybe the bus had knocked him off his bike. It turns out he is the boss. He collects money. Blows a referees whistle to give instructions to the driver. On money it comes to my time to pay. I had watched people hand over 10 & 20 notes. He wants 50 off me ha! Anyway - apologies again. I am in a daft relaxed mood. For some reason I cannot get a scene out of my mind from my last stay - in Kerala. At the hostel you could cook your own food. Another guest was a French lady. She was very nice but had a nasally French accent - reminded me of Inspector Closseau. She had bought some eggs. David have you had a crêpe (before), David would you like a crêpe, David would you like another crêpe. David did you enjoy the crêpe. I tried not to laugh - silly boy - but I can't get her accent or her unfortunate questions out of my head. I make some up. David would you like tea or coffee with your crêpe. When did you last have a crêpe - ha! I was already grinning on the bus. Then I looked at the signs above the front rows of seats. Women , seniors - is that me? and "handicaps"! Handicaps This is India. I started speculating the outcry if this was the term used on a UK bus. It made me chuckle again. I think the term now would be " with disability ". Anyway an Indian lady started watching me. She must have thought I was mad. Stupid grin! Anyway last stop Betim. Where is the free ferry? I am in the middle of a huge bus terminal. Eventually I give up trying to get directions. I get a tuk tuk. How much 70. How far about 2km? I know this can't be right. The slowest tuk tuk drive ever. Still there in 3 minutes. 50 over charged! I am at the ferry. It is a bit like the East Cowes floating bridge. Another mad Indian moment. Everyone including motorbikes rush on before the others can get off. Chaos. I get to the other side. Where is Panjim. Am I here? A choice left or right. I say Panjim. He says bus two minutes. I get on. I sense something is wrong. In no time We are across a big bridge - I am back in the bus terminus at Betim! Laugh or cry. I decide to get my act together. I was switched off. First rule of trekking. Have a map. I buy one. Yes confirmed - I had been to Panjim. What to do. Have another go or get back to Calangute and have a swim in the sea. It's hot. The sea wins. Tuk tuk back 350. Great. ( I subsequently look at Lonely Planet Panjim has a population of 115000 and somehow I missed it. I shall have to come another year and seek out the Plantin Leaf Restaurant!
I chat to a family from Birmingham. What are you up to this afternoon. Going down to the beach. They laugh. They say we call that one " pants beach". They said a lot of the Indian boys haven't got much and go in in their pants. She is right. I am walking along. A group of very dark skinned Indian lads stop me. Photo photo. Initially I say no because I immediately think they were probably working some scam but it is OK - they genuinely do just want a photo - I have been asked quite a few times. We line up. I think these lads are Tamils. Anyway one turns to me and says you look just like my dad! I take it as a compliment. I walk on. Some other lads are flinging a tennis ball to each other. The ball rolls down to me. I pick it up and choose to throw it underarm the 10 yards. Horror - I don't release my fingers properly. The ball goes just off vertical up - lands behind me. What a buerk! They are laughing. I fumble a regather and donkey drop it back to the nearest lad. He is going to have some fun. He piches one at me. I stick out my arm. A decent one handed catch. Thank goodness! I pitch it back - he slings it back harder. Another catch. They clap. Some honour restored. I try the old trick. Look at one guy - throw it to another. He catches it easily. Time to move on before I come unstuck again. We all laugh. The Indians are nice people.
I hadn't really done my homework properly. The main train station is in South Goa. I had booked to stay in North Goa at Calangute. I had thought about changing it especially as I had heard N Goa is far more commercial but in the end after a months travelling I just thought go with it and relax. I took a tuk tuk to Calangute. 900IR so not a disaster. It was about an hour I think. It was pretty evident right from the off that Goa is a holiday place. Busy yes - very much so but not chaotic as much of the north.
I get to my hostel but it is a hotel with a dormitory. 6 beds in the dorm but only me and an American with his daughter. The dorm is great, large, spotless and cool. Excellent wi fi, a swimming pool, there are Indian and British guests staying in the proper accommodation above. For £6 a night brilliant value and outstanding after the excellent breakfast they served.
I get myself sorted and then walk down to the famed Calangute beach. Yes it is commercial. Yes it is busy but it really is a wonderful beach. It is truely huge. Wide deep soft sand and must be miles long. There is space for everyone. Jet skis, parchutes off the back of speed boats, bars galore, people strolling, many many Indians having fun and playing games. Big waves rolling in many swimming, life guards patrolling, music playing. It is very clean. It is not claustrophobic in any way. It is a great beach, somehow with everything happening it remains serene. Maybe it is the sound of the waves and the acres and acres of sand soaking up all the energy. I can happily spend a few days here. I am glad I came already. Later I have my first swim in the Arabian Sea. Wow the sand is so soft under foot, the water clear and so warm. Some big waves. Fantastic. Amazing to be in after a month of hot travel.
Later I have a beer. Much cheaper in Goa than anywhere else I have been in India because unlike the rest of India Goa is not mainly a dry state. Bars are common place. I talk to many Brits. A lot have been coming for years. I ask about changes. This is what I was told. Calangute is of course busier than it was years ago but two things have happened in the last year or too that has been positive. Firstly the main holiday makers now are Indian. This is great. People watching - the beach experience is a new one to many Indians. The other is the Russian invasion has been curbed and very significantly reduced. Part explanation - sanctions against Russia for their invasion of the Ukraine is hurting business and a lot of Russians can no longer afford to travel. Secondly the government in Goa have deliberately increased the travel costs to Russians by increasing visa and landing fees. Apparently local businesses complained about hard drinking Russians walking out of restaurants without paying and the same with taxis. As I understand it foreigners can no longer by property in Goa. All good if it stops the place losing its character.
So my Goa experience is very limited. Apparently the are many beautiful pristine beaches to be found. I could imagine a holiday here. Your £ goes a long way and the food available is fantastic in every way. Just avoid some of the bars full of hard drinking Brits at sun down - oh and the guys on the beach that want to clean your ears with long tweezers. They make out they have removed something from your ear and then want to charge for a full decoke. No thanks!
My last paragraph. I shall share a silly morning with you. Apologies at the outset for the juvenality!
My daughters in laws, Paul and June know Goa very well. They suggested a visit to Panjim might be a nice thing to do. Public bus to Betim - free ferry to Panjim. I set out. Indian buses are the cheapest form of travel. They wizz around in their bashed up body work. They are often full and chaotic. A full on Indian experience. I have a seat. I people watch. People come and go. One youngish guy gets on raging shouting at the driver. The only time I saw anything like it in India. We all want to know the problem. I thought maybe the bus had knocked him off his bike. It turns out he is the boss. He collects money. Blows a referees whistle to give instructions to the driver. On money it comes to my time to pay. I had watched people hand over 10 & 20 notes. He wants 50 off me ha! Anyway - apologies again. I am in a daft relaxed mood. For some reason I cannot get a scene out of my mind from my last stay - in Kerala. At the hostel you could cook your own food. Another guest was a French lady. She was very nice but had a nasally French accent - reminded me of Inspector Closseau. She had bought some eggs. David have you had a crêpe (before), David would you like a crêpe, David would you like another crêpe. David did you enjoy the crêpe. I tried not to laugh - silly boy - but I can't get her accent or her unfortunate questions out of my head. I make some up. David would you like tea or coffee with your crêpe. When did you last have a crêpe - ha! I was already grinning on the bus. Then I looked at the signs above the front rows of seats. Women , seniors - is that me? and "handicaps"! Handicaps This is India. I started speculating the outcry if this was the term used on a UK bus. It made me chuckle again. I think the term now would be " with disability ". Anyway an Indian lady started watching me. She must have thought I was mad. Stupid grin! Anyway last stop Betim. Where is the free ferry? I am in the middle of a huge bus terminal. Eventually I give up trying to get directions. I get a tuk tuk. How much 70. How far about 2km? I know this can't be right. The slowest tuk tuk drive ever. Still there in 3 minutes. 50 over charged! I am at the ferry. It is a bit like the East Cowes floating bridge. Another mad Indian moment. Everyone including motorbikes rush on before the others can get off. Chaos. I get to the other side. Where is Panjim. Am I here? A choice left or right. I say Panjim. He says bus two minutes. I get on. I sense something is wrong. In no time We are across a big bridge - I am back in the bus terminus at Betim! Laugh or cry. I decide to get my act together. I was switched off. First rule of trekking. Have a map. I buy one. Yes confirmed - I had been to Panjim. What to do. Have another go or get back to Calangute and have a swim in the sea. It's hot. The sea wins. Tuk tuk back 350. Great. ( I subsequently look at Lonely Planet Panjim has a population of 115000 and somehow I missed it. I shall have to come another year and seek out the Plantin Leaf Restaurant!
I chat to a family from Birmingham. What are you up to this afternoon. Going down to the beach. They laugh. They say we call that one " pants beach". They said a lot of the Indian boys haven't got much and go in in their pants. She is right. I am walking along. A group of very dark skinned Indian lads stop me. Photo photo. Initially I say no because I immediately think they were probably working some scam but it is OK - they genuinely do just want a photo - I have been asked quite a few times. We line up. I think these lads are Tamils. Anyway one turns to me and says you look just like my dad! I take it as a compliment. I walk on. Some other lads are flinging a tennis ball to each other. The ball rolls down to me. I pick it up and choose to throw it underarm the 10 yards. Horror - I don't release my fingers properly. The ball goes just off vertical up - lands behind me. What a buerk! They are laughing. I fumble a regather and donkey drop it back to the nearest lad. He is going to have some fun. He piches one at me. I stick out my arm. A decent one handed catch. Thank goodness! I pitch it back - he slings it back harder. Another catch. They clap. Some honour restored. I try the old trick. Look at one guy - throw it to another. He catches it easily. Time to move on before I come unstuck again. We all laugh. The Indians are nice people.
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