From Mumbai I made the long sleeper train journey down to Kochi (Cochin) right down on the southwest coast. ( I intend to write a separate blog about using trains in India ).
The state of Kerala is a narrow coastal strip renowned for its coastline and the backwaters - a beautiful and very extensive water way system that exists between the Western Ghats ( a chain of mountains running north to south) and the parrellel coast.
Kerala is a beautiful green area. The state motto is God's own country. It is still a busy place but much gentler and cleaner than the north. It is a tourist area and because of a lack of well paid jobs a second home area for Indians working abroad or in Mumbai. There are far more westerners around and in some instances the dreaded coach tour!
Kerala has a reputation for religious tolerance more than any state in India. There are churches, temples and mosques everywhere but on the whole low key. On Sunday I went out on a hired bike and found my way. All th churches appeared to be full and thriving. Everyone seems to have religion.
I did a one day backwater tour on a day boat with about 10 other people. The boats have no engines - just bamboo poles with a man on the front and back. The backwaters weave and run for hundreds of kilometres along the strip which is Kerala. The water runs off the Western Ghats and I guess gets locked in. In the main the water is freshwater but as I understand during the dry season when levels drop sea water can penetrate. The backwaters are lovely indeed. The banks are dotted with small farms and particularly homes of fishermen. The backwaters form a special quiet place - no cars of course and motor boats are very restricted. I think the backwaters could be truly extraordinary if you had time to penetrate deeper. The bird life is very exotic and a great spectacle. This is not exaggerating. We watched a group of red winged eagles diving for fish like Terns. If you want party action please do not go there - it is not a place for you.
One hot bit of insight. It is universally understood India is cricket mad. But from what I have seen football is catching up fast. Countless times I have been engaged by Indians who want to talk about football. I have spent some enjoyable time watching boys playing football in bare feet. Some of them are really excellent. I seen one boy this morning who looked outstanding to me and a skinny lad of about 14. If I was an English scout I would have signed him up. They want to win the world cup one day they say. They well might. One stupid bit of vanity - I am dying to join in and show them what an old pro can do - take it on the chest and bang in a volley - dream on - ha!
Another tuk tuk adventure. I am walking in Fort Kochi (the old part of Kochi and where I am staying). I only arrived in the late morning. Tuk tuk pulls up. Usual patter. Where you from sir etc etc. He says big tour - all the sights 100. £1. I think it would be good to get my bearings. I say OK 100 no shops! He is likeable and his English is pretty good. He starts telling me all sorts of interesting stuff. I know it is going to end up costing me more than a £1 - he is subtle though! He says have to be quick - famous Dutch church closing - I have to drive very fast. Great smiles from him when we get there. He is proud - but also done me a big favour. Other places we go. Long way sir - 4 kilometres but you will like - I will give you the best tour - a Hindu temple, the ginger and spice market and the old style hand wash laundry and ironing using a great heavy irons heated by red embers. He escorts me in to these places. One photo one photo. He is making it all happen for me - he is pushing the boundaries so I am seeing it all! He takes me to the Women's Cooperative. Kerala is an outstanding producer of spices. The Malabar Coast. It is what all the Europeans came here for. Great smells. Ginger, pepper, chilli, coriander, cumin, curry leaves, star annise etc etc sacks of the stuff! The Women's Cooperative make up curry blends and attach hand written recipes to them. The Indian Ladies were great fun. They were teasing me in the end - getting me to smell men's and ladies oils for my wife. No wife giggle giggle! I bought 6 packets of various spice mixes for fish and meat and vegetable plus some ginger tea. They did a great selling job on me. I was mugged. Brilliant. Let's hope I can get it all through customs! Back to the tuk tuk man. By now time has gone on. I have seen a lot and really enjoyed it. Cost is in the back of my mind. What shall I pay him!? One favour for me sir ( as I have done so many for you!) Will you go to one shop! How can I refuse - ha! He drops me at quite an impressive store. Indian ethnic things some you would need a palace to house. I humour them. Look at one or or two things. Ask about price. I explain I have just arrived and here for a few days. I will think about it overnight and decide which one I want. This is always a good way to pacify them I have found.
Finally we have been miles - a grand tour. I give him 500 - £5. I have been with him for nearly 4 hours. He is really delighted. I have paid more than he expected - maybe it was just the fact I offered it. Some miserable devils might have held him to the original 100. My attitude is we are both happy. It is not the same as when a taxi driver tries to charge you double fare. Anyway I ask him about a place I have been told is good to eat at for later. He offers to pick me up from my homestay for nothing and as a friendly gesture. We shake hands. They are not dishonest but they are cute. They have to be. I am prepared to meet them half way.
Anyway sort of a punchline. Next day I hire a push bike. I ride around and it begins to dawn on me that all these places I have seen are all close together - one almost opposite another but it would have been too easy to cross the road - best drive a bit first - ha! I chuckle to myself. Brilliant stuff. Harmless. I have seen him several times since to chat. A good guy operating in a tough business. Respect to him - he pushed the boundaries yes but he did it with style in my view and I have a bag full of spices to prove it! ha ha!
I didn't mention the Chinese nets - a big draw because they are a real and unusual spectacle. I thought at first they were a kind of catapult that fired the fish nets out. In fact they lower and raise them by counterbalanced rocks and the labour of 4 or 5 men. They dip the net for 10 minutes and then lift the fish out. The fished looked small but the system works! Maybe We should set one up at Seaview!
Kerala is lovely - especially the people. I would come back to it. Off to Goa tonight. Have had good and bad reports. Let's give it a go and find out.
The state of Kerala is a narrow coastal strip renowned for its coastline and the backwaters - a beautiful and very extensive water way system that exists between the Western Ghats ( a chain of mountains running north to south) and the parrellel coast.
Kerala is a beautiful green area. The state motto is God's own country. It is still a busy place but much gentler and cleaner than the north. It is a tourist area and because of a lack of well paid jobs a second home area for Indians working abroad or in Mumbai. There are far more westerners around and in some instances the dreaded coach tour!
Kerala has a reputation for religious tolerance more than any state in India. There are churches, temples and mosques everywhere but on the whole low key. On Sunday I went out on a hired bike and found my way. All th churches appeared to be full and thriving. Everyone seems to have religion.
I did a one day backwater tour on a day boat with about 10 other people. The boats have no engines - just bamboo poles with a man on the front and back. The backwaters weave and run for hundreds of kilometres along the strip which is Kerala. The water runs off the Western Ghats and I guess gets locked in. In the main the water is freshwater but as I understand during the dry season when levels drop sea water can penetrate. The backwaters are lovely indeed. The banks are dotted with small farms and particularly homes of fishermen. The backwaters form a special quiet place - no cars of course and motor boats are very restricted. I think the backwaters could be truly extraordinary if you had time to penetrate deeper. The bird life is very exotic and a great spectacle. This is not exaggerating. We watched a group of red winged eagles diving for fish like Terns. If you want party action please do not go there - it is not a place for you.
One hot bit of insight. It is universally understood India is cricket mad. But from what I have seen football is catching up fast. Countless times I have been engaged by Indians who want to talk about football. I have spent some enjoyable time watching boys playing football in bare feet. Some of them are really excellent. I seen one boy this morning who looked outstanding to me and a skinny lad of about 14. If I was an English scout I would have signed him up. They want to win the world cup one day they say. They well might. One stupid bit of vanity - I am dying to join in and show them what an old pro can do - take it on the chest and bang in a volley - dream on - ha!
Another tuk tuk adventure. I am walking in Fort Kochi (the old part of Kochi and where I am staying). I only arrived in the late morning. Tuk tuk pulls up. Usual patter. Where you from sir etc etc. He says big tour - all the sights 100. £1. I think it would be good to get my bearings. I say OK 100 no shops! He is likeable and his English is pretty good. He starts telling me all sorts of interesting stuff. I know it is going to end up costing me more than a £1 - he is subtle though! He says have to be quick - famous Dutch church closing - I have to drive very fast. Great smiles from him when we get there. He is proud - but also done me a big favour. Other places we go. Long way sir - 4 kilometres but you will like - I will give you the best tour - a Hindu temple, the ginger and spice market and the old style hand wash laundry and ironing using a great heavy irons heated by red embers. He escorts me in to these places. One photo one photo. He is making it all happen for me - he is pushing the boundaries so I am seeing it all! He takes me to the Women's Cooperative. Kerala is an outstanding producer of spices. The Malabar Coast. It is what all the Europeans came here for. Great smells. Ginger, pepper, chilli, coriander, cumin, curry leaves, star annise etc etc sacks of the stuff! The Women's Cooperative make up curry blends and attach hand written recipes to them. The Indian Ladies were great fun. They were teasing me in the end - getting me to smell men's and ladies oils for my wife. No wife giggle giggle! I bought 6 packets of various spice mixes for fish and meat and vegetable plus some ginger tea. They did a great selling job on me. I was mugged. Brilliant. Let's hope I can get it all through customs! Back to the tuk tuk man. By now time has gone on. I have seen a lot and really enjoyed it. Cost is in the back of my mind. What shall I pay him!? One favour for me sir ( as I have done so many for you!) Will you go to one shop! How can I refuse - ha! He drops me at quite an impressive store. Indian ethnic things some you would need a palace to house. I humour them. Look at one or or two things. Ask about price. I explain I have just arrived and here for a few days. I will think about it overnight and decide which one I want. This is always a good way to pacify them I have found.
Finally we have been miles - a grand tour. I give him 500 - £5. I have been with him for nearly 4 hours. He is really delighted. I have paid more than he expected - maybe it was just the fact I offered it. Some miserable devils might have held him to the original 100. My attitude is we are both happy. It is not the same as when a taxi driver tries to charge you double fare. Anyway I ask him about a place I have been told is good to eat at for later. He offers to pick me up from my homestay for nothing and as a friendly gesture. We shake hands. They are not dishonest but they are cute. They have to be. I am prepared to meet them half way.
Anyway sort of a punchline. Next day I hire a push bike. I ride around and it begins to dawn on me that all these places I have seen are all close together - one almost opposite another but it would have been too easy to cross the road - best drive a bit first - ha! I chuckle to myself. Brilliant stuff. Harmless. I have seen him several times since to chat. A good guy operating in a tough business. Respect to him - he pushed the boundaries yes but he did it with style in my view and I have a bag full of spices to prove it! ha ha!
I didn't mention the Chinese nets - a big draw because they are a real and unusual spectacle. I thought at first they were a kind of catapult that fired the fish nets out. In fact they lower and raise them by counterbalanced rocks and the labour of 4 or 5 men. They dip the net for 10 minutes and then lift the fish out. The fished looked small but the system works! Maybe We should set one up at Seaview!
Kerala is lovely - especially the people. I would come back to it. Off to Goa tonight. Have had good and bad reports. Let's give it a go and find out.
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| Chinese nets. A fishing contraption. |
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| Breakfast at the homestay |
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| and lunch in the Backwaters |
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| The ancient Dutch church |
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| Football crazy - even as it gets dark |
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| Scenes from the backwaters |
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| Gandhi's wisdom everywhere |
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| Thumbs up at the net. On my bike. |
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| An old British name. Thousands of them being ridden in India. This was a special one and much bigger than the norm. |
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| My overnight express. It was just as long looking in the other direction. |
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