CHINTSA
A good run down the N2 takes us to Chinsa (Cinsa). Even the
locals cannot agree how to spell it. We are at the western end of the Wild
Coast. Maybe at the start of the Wild Coast. We were told Cinsa maybe even more
lovely than the coast around Wild Lubanzi. Of course this is a personal judgement.
Let me get it on record from the outset. Cinsa is great. Don’t miss it on my
account. You will not find a longer
uncommercial beach of soft clean golden sand. In fact it stretches 18k east. It
is flanked by huge sand dunes and white surf topped waves off the Indian Ocean.
(the water is Cornwall cold and powerful – a place for surfing). I have been in
to find out after an early morning jog and dip!
Cinsa is divided by a river into East and West Cinsa rather
like East and West Cowes – ha! The difference is west Cinsa seems to comprise
of little more than our extensive backpackers called Buccaneers. (in many ways
it is a holiday camp/resort. It is excellent but rather sanitised). East Chinsa
is a little village – an upmarket place with some beautiful big houses. It has
a sense of how I imagine apartheid SA was. The Bare Foot Café serves a good
lunch.
Unlike at Cowes the river dividing Cinsa does not currently
reach the sea but is dammed by the beach. It stops 50yards or so short. This
reflects water levels and will break through again in the rainy season. The temporary
effect is to create a lagoon. It is warm and gentle and teeming with small
surface fish and all sorts of birds. So the sea, the lagoon, the golden beach
as far as you can see and the quiet little village makes up a beautiful spot –
a holiday spot – a tasteful resort. Two differences from the Wild Lubanzi area
we have come from. At Cinsa there are people around – not many but enough not
to make it feel “wild”. The other is the coast line is simply not wild. (There
are also no Rondavels or animals). So maybe the difference between a Labrador
and a Wolf.
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