Wild Coast
We are staying along the coast from Coffee Bay in a backpackers lodge called Wild Lubanzi. It is a really “cool” place. It is right on the coast, the views and sound of the surf are truly stunning as the Indian Ocean crashes in. The people here are not ones seeking a party scene. Everything is based on a natural and sustainable formula. It is lovely.
We have now moved down the coast from Durban to the Transkei
– homeland of the Xhosa tribe. We are in an area aptly named The Wild Coast. It
is apparently one of the most unspoilt regions of South Africa. It is
undeveloped, it is wild and the coast where we are based is truly beautiful.
Unspoilt and natural and spectacular. Wow !
This part of the coast is really inaccessible without
special effort. To get to our lodge we had to park up and take a lift in a 4 x
4. Even then the road was challenging. Steep inclines up and down and no proper
defined roads – barely track.We are staying along the coast from Coffee Bay in a backpackers lodge called Wild Lubanzi. It is a really “cool” place. It is right on the coast, the views and sound of the surf are truly stunning as the Indian Ocean crashes in. The people here are not ones seeking a party scene. Everything is based on a natural and sustainable formula. It is lovely.
Today we trekked to Hole in the Wall. I am in danger of over
using “stunning” but it truly was. We walked above the thundering ocean on lush
green undulating hills and through Xhosa settlements with their picturesque and
colourful traditional homes called Rondavels. Their cattle, goats, pigs and
sheep were around us and we were often accompanied by curious and friendly
young boys who were keen and able to show us the route. When we got to the Hole
in the Wall it was obvious why it had the name. A massive hole in the cliff
that formed the entrance to the river estuary. The surf was pounding – but otherwise
total peace. Wonderful.
The next day we walked along the coast going west in the
direction of Bulungula. Another incredible walk. We saw no one virtually all day. We
walked on a beach easily a mile long. We walked the whole length on virgin
sand. We sat and watched sand crabs dash from the burrows with a side long sprint
to the sea. Such a simple special thing to do. Eventually we got to a place
called Bulls Inn where we had lunch. The place was run by a pugnacious ex rugby
playing South African. He had his black team of helpers. He specialised in
taking people out for deep sea fishing. The week before he had caught to 70
kilo fish! We had a modest lunch there. Lobster, fish and salad! A two hour
stroll back. Bliss. I would come back to this place – definitely.
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| Octopus caught with a stick |
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| we walked some of the way with these ladies |
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| Our volunteer guide |
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| Mike in the Wild Lubanzi kitchen |
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| Hole in the Wall |
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| Hole in the Wall |
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| Great lunch at the Bulls Inn |
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| Rob and Mike stride out |
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Elated         |
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