#HoiAn - V5

The established tourist route is likely to take you to Hoi An. There is nothing wrong with that. It is a "nice" place but maybe a bit too nice. I suppose what I am questioning is its authenticity given that it is now focused so much on tourism.

However read the travel guides and I have it completely wrong. Lonely Planet describes Hoi An as graceful, historic and Vietnams most atmospheric and delightful town. Hoi An was once a major and prosperous port and retains many of the old buildings that represents its wealth in times past. By UNESCO decree more than 800 historic buildings in Hoi An have been preserved and the claim is the Old Town has retained its incredible legacy as a result. Fair enough. The Old Town is lovely to wander around but I would say that while many of the buildings are indeed beautiful and no doubt original the fact is most buildings are shops restaurants or bars. There are also many outfitters and tailors. Hoi An is one of those places where you can get measured up and collect the made up suit in 24 hours. The standout characteristic is how friendly and obliging the people are. Service everywhere is outstanding - a national characteristic I would suggest.

Also to be fair to Hoi An our short visit was further restricted by recent heavy rain and flooding as a result. It is the rainy season. Incredible rain and so warm. My pictures show the flooding but it was of little consequence - the people here are so used to it.

A couple of mad memories. It is early evening. We want to get across to An Hoi island. The river has flooded over the 50 yards to the bridge. People are everywhere- it is very colourful. The locals tend to wear flip flops or plastic sandals so they just walk across. Some tourists take off their shoes and socks and walk across. Rob follows suit. But I am approached by a lad on a bicycle - a lift across on the back of his pushbike 30000 VND - say a £1. I agree £20000. I wizz over feet dry and overtake Rob - ha ha! On the way back we shared a moped ride for 40 !

Another - again the rain. Our hotel was modestish - about £15 per night each - (includes a comprehensive breakfast choice) but it did have a roof top swimming pool on its 6th floor. It is early morning and I decide a swim before breakfast. It was memorable. Almost an infinity pool looking out over Hoi An and the river. Just me. The heavens open. As heavy a rain as I have ever experienced. I loved swimming through it. At one pont I thought it was hail - the drops so heavy the little splashes so big! It felt surreal. I will always remember that 20 minutes.

Anyway go to Hoi An you will enjoy it. I am glad we went there.

Here are a few mob photos :

 

Maybe my favourite half hour in Hoi An. A tatty plastic shelter. No language except a common language. Good ordinary guys. I tried some Vietnamese from my guide book. Real.

Rob has a hair cut. Now Donald Trump

He asked me if I wanted something to eat? no.  Then do you like my assistant? A pretty  woman. We never found out if that was a leading question - ha!

#Hue - the old imperial capital of Vietnam. V4

We have now left the north of Vietnam. Our memories are fond ones. More than that.

It is evidently easy to move around Vietnam- and like pretty much everything else - fantastic value. This time we have booked sleeping berths for an overnight (13 hr) train journey south to Hue - Hue the old imperial capital of Vietnam. It was a fun experience  - a real one of life in Vietnam and how people go about things. Rob and I had a pair of bunks on one side of the cabin and locals on the other 2 bunks. We slept really well - ha!

We arrive in Hue at about 8am. It is pouring with rain and I mean pouring. A monsoon downpour but it is so warm. The locals go to - plastic ponchos and/or unbrellas - not much gortex technical fibre technology ! They probably have it right  - simple is best. Drying things in the humidity takes a while.

Hue is much smaller than Hanoi - less than 1m people. It immediately feels less frenetic. Sadly Hue with a rich history, is situated close to the DMZ  - the demilitarised zone that separated North and South Vietnam prior to the start of the Vietnam War. During the war the DMZ ironically became one the most militarised areas in the world and Hue suffered with much destruction. Hue has been rebuilt part in a modern style and part in the original old style.

The main draw to Hue is to visit The Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. This was our purpose for this short stopover although we really enjoyed the wander across the river and through the streets to get to the massive walls that form the enclosure. Incredibly we got lost on the way back. Not easy to lose a wide river ( The Perfume River ) and an illuminated bridge but no matter - ha ha !

A bit about the Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. (To be unkind it could be dismissed as a poor man's Beijing's Forbidden City.) However we really enjoyed this change of pace - reading about some of the history and the challenges of appropriate renewal and rebuilding after the ravages of the war.

Just a bit about the history as I understand it !  In 1802 Emperor Gia Long founded the Nguyen Dynasty. He moved the capital from Hanoi to more central Hue ( said Hway ) to better unite north and south Vietnam. This moved prospered and the Citadel etc was built but gradually the move was countered by the interference of the colonial French. In 1885 the French burned the library and ransacked and plundered the Citadel and fully marginalised the Emperor from public life.

During the Vietnamese war Hue became a focus. The Vietcong Tet Offensive in 1968 was initially successful and the VC held Hue for nearly a month. This caused world wide shock. Eventually the American's and their allies won Hue back but the city was destroyed in achieving it. Over 2500 people died around the Citadel. The Americans  battered it and even used napalm on the Imperial Palace. In all 10000 people died in Hue in this short period. Reflecting - this was not that long ago  - 1968 !

Today the Citadel and Imperial Enclosure are important to the Vietnamese as a symbol of their glorious Imperial past. It was a learned dynasty. Walking around you get an idea of what life may have been like together with the challenges of appropriate repair and renewal of both buildings and gardens. It is a UNESCO site and there has been a great deal of international help. The work goes on.

Here are a few mob photos. It was a very rainy afternoon and we were not always sure of the significance or purpose the buildings being photographed ! However we were somewhere special. Dismiss my earlier comment- a poor man's Forbidden City. I think the turmoil this place has been subject too gives it substancial gravitas. It is a consequential place and a privilege to have been there.