We have now left the north of Vietnam. Our memories are fond ones. More than that.
It is evidently easy to move around Vietnam- and like pretty much everything else - fantastic value. This time we have booked sleeping berths for an overnight (13 hr) train journey south to Hue - Hue the old imperial capital of Vietnam. It was a fun experience - a real one of life in Vietnam and how people go about things. Rob and I had a pair of bunks on one side of the cabin and locals on the other 2 bunks. We slept really well - ha!
We arrive in Hue at about 8am. It is pouring with rain and I mean pouring. A monsoon downpour but it is so warm. The locals go to - plastic ponchos and/or unbrellas - not much gortex technical fibre technology ! They probably have it right - simple is best. Drying things in the humidity takes a while.
Hue is much smaller than Hanoi - less than 1m people. It immediately feels less frenetic. Sadly Hue with a rich history, is situated close to the DMZ - the demilitarised zone that separated North and South Vietnam prior to the start of the Vietnam War. During the war the DMZ ironically became one the most militarised areas in the world and Hue suffered with much destruction. Hue has been rebuilt part in a modern style and part in the original old style.
The main draw to Hue is to visit The Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. This was our purpose for this short stopover although we really enjoyed the wander across the river and through the streets to get to the massive walls that form the enclosure. Incredibly we got lost on the way back. Not easy to lose a wide river ( The Perfume River ) and an illuminated bridge but no matter - ha ha !
A bit about the Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. (To be unkind it could be dismissed as a poor man's Beijing's Forbidden City.) However we really enjoyed this change of pace - reading about some of the history and the challenges of appropriate renewal and rebuilding after the ravages of the war.
Just a bit about the history as I understand it ! In 1802 Emperor Gia Long founded the Nguyen Dynasty. He moved the capital from Hanoi to more central Hue ( said Hway ) to better unite north and south Vietnam. This moved prospered and the Citadel etc was built but gradually the move was countered by the interference of the colonial French. In 1885 the French burned the library and ransacked and plundered the Citadel and fully marginalised the Emperor from public life.
During the Vietnamese war Hue became a focus. The Vietcong Tet Offensive in 1968 was initially successful and the VC held Hue for nearly a month. This caused world wide shock. Eventually the American's and their allies won Hue back but the city was destroyed in achieving it. Over 2500 people died around the Citadel. The Americans battered it and even used napalm on the Imperial Palace. In all 10000 people died in Hue in this short period. Reflecting - this was not that long ago - 1968 !
Today the Citadel and Imperial Enclosure are important to the Vietnamese as a symbol of their glorious Imperial past. It was a learned dynasty. Walking around you get an idea of what life may have been like together with the challenges of appropriate repair and renewal of both buildings and gardens. It is a UNESCO site and there has been a great deal of international help. The work goes on.
Here are a few mob photos. It was a very rainy afternoon and we were not always sure of the significance or purpose the buildings being photographed ! However we were somewhere special. Dismiss my earlier comment- a poor man's Forbidden City. I think the turmoil this place has been subject too gives it substancial gravitas. It is a consequential place and a privilege to have been there.
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