Tuesday 7 November 2023

#Hanoi - V1

It is early November. We will have arrived in Hanoi for the start of a 3 week visit - our first visit to Vietnam. We ? I am with my brother Rob. Mike the other "Three Tenner" couldn't be with us alas, as work committments didn't fall right on this occasion.

Over the next few weeks I will post a few blogs to record my thoughts and some of the things seen - obviously travel acts as a stimulus but I 100% acknowledge our trip is a relative whistle-stop and therefore claim no particular expertise regarding Vietnam. One of the main benefits of writing these blogs is simply to prompt my memory - ha!

I am tempted to start writing a Vietnam history in the context of the Vietnam War - what the Vietnamese refer to as the American War. The Vietnam War ended in 1975 when the communist North Vietnamese- the Viet Cong drove the Americans out of the south and took over Saigon to declare Vietnam a united communist country. Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh city in honour of their leader. This is the stuff of my childhood and teenage years. I grew up with the Vietnam War news bulletins. I cannot believe I am here now and Vietnam has come so far after the terrible war - the bombing - agent orange - the destruction. But I am. I shall park the war for now!

A quick bit about Vietnam. It is not a small country - it is a long country - over 1000 miles and thin - just over 300 miles at its widest and 30 miles at its narrowest. It is 1.4 times the size of the UK (bigger than the UK ). It has a population of nearly 100 million people. It has a massive coastline. It is only a 1000 miles or so north of the equator ! A regular question - when is the best time of year to go to Vietnam? A tricky one because of the geographic shape and coastline. Without going into the weather too much Vietnam has both a tropical and a temperate climate - and experiences the monsoon cycle. Heavy rain and humidity are big factors. Changeable. Hanoi for us warm - hot and humid and this is winter approaching.

One other thing to put right at the outset. Vietnam is not 3rd world. It is rich in natural resources and has made massive economic progress and is a successful country. It's economy size is move towards the world's top 30. What is incredible however is the low cost of living. For us westerners it is a cheap place to be and we are all millionaires.  1,000,000 Vnd is about £40. 5 beers might be £4. Dinner £2 to £5. 

Anyway Hanoi - Vietnam's capital city. North Vietnam. We are staying in the "old city". What a place ! It is not what you would call beautiful- no really significant architecture  - not surprising given its war torn history but it is so incredibly vibrant. There is so much energy. It is said there a 5 million mopeds in Hanoi!

One thing which is hard to get your head around is Vietnam is designated as a communist country. It a one party state - and the party is the communist party. However like China it has adopted a mixed economy with business and profit as the main driver. The overwhelming characteristic of Hanoi for me are people are busy - earning their living - doing things. Each street is populated by small business units - often each street selling the same thing. Carpet street, fish Sstreet - bird cage street.

What is great too are people are happy. As I said earlier I was brought up with news bulletins about the Viet Cong fighting a ferocious guerilla war. That is these people or at least their parents and grandparents! There is no austerity evident. Rapid open WiFi everywhere ( puts the UK to shame). Vietnam is not China. No military walking around - virtually no police evident. It is hard to believe this is the same people and this is a communist country. Language is a barrier. I would love to know what the average Vietnamese is thinking and how it all works. I suspect they are happy because they are making progress and as far as it goes free to live their life. Certainly they welcome tourists and touchwood it feels a safe place.

Like anywhere in Indochina - the far east  - us westerners are stunned by the contrasts - by the colour - by the wonderful food. I am totally in my element here from a food point of view. The street foòd is fantastic. Rob and and I just love being sat outside having a beer on a busy junction and just watching the world go by. So much  happening. So different. Really incredible.

Those 5 million motorcycles. Must be an underestimate - ha! Every pull away at a green light looks like a ride out. Not that there are many traffic lights. There are crossings but we have begun to understand crossings are not where traffic stops ha! The way it works at best is where traffic are on extra notice to dodge around you ! There is a system - a code - and 5 million motorbikes might be the solution to the urban transport solution. There are cars and commercial vehicles of course but in the Old City at least people get around on mopeds - sometimes with two or three people - often laden with goods. But they are not clapped out bikes - and they are not screeching - no boy racers. They just move around and get the job done and park anywhere. It works! Commonsense not Health and Safety. So refreshing. The UK is a nanny state! Well done Vietnam.

Here are a few mob pictures taken in Hanoi. 






The Red River


The Long Bien bridge over the Red River. It was constantly 
bombed by the American's but as a symbol of resistance the Vietnamese kept it open. In the end the Americans stopped bombing it when the Vietnamese said they would use American POW's to repair any damage.










We were walking around a lake park on Sunday morning. We think it was a special day for the Hanoi's. They wanted photos with us - ha !



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