#MtFansipan the Cat Cat route. V2

The highest point in Indo China and therefore Vietnam is Mt Fansipan at 10326 ft. It is set in the Hoag Lion Son mountain range in NW Vietnam. It is possible to trek to the top. (It is also possible to take a cable car.) When I was planning our trip to Vietnam back in the UK the prospect of hiking to the top of Fansipan became a primary focus.

From Hanoi we travel to the mountain town of Sa Pa (a busy trekking centre). Our overnight hotel looks out over the valley beneath to the sharp rise on the other valley side and the mountains. Fansipan itself is not in view as it is behind. This is still the rainy season. Views of the mountains come and go. It is beautiful. It seems incredible we are going to walk to the top.

We are met at the hotel next morning by the trekking company representative. (we booked with Joey the Terrible). He reiterated what I had researched from the UK. Fansipan is a steep ascent and the weather is unpredictable. Built on the top is a viewing platform etc serviced by a cable car and it attracts many visitors (a national monument). There is an established hiking trail which takes two days and runs up the same side of the mountain as the cable car. It is designated as difficult. However there is an alternative  - the Cat Cat trail which takes 3 days. It is rated hard. The representative wants to ensure we know what we are taking on by opting for Cat Cat.  His English is not strong but the gist is clear - perhaps we should do the normal route. Knowing what we know now he was probably right but more of that later.

The Cat Cat route takes us up the valley and eventually criss crossing to around the other side of Fansipan. We are led by Su Su and there are two other woman who might be described as sherpas. They have dustbin shaped plastic containers on their backs carrying everything we are going to need in terms of food and drink, cooking and sleeping. I have been supported by "sherpas" several times before. Morally I am uneasy about it. There was very little English from Su Su and none from the ladies but they were a big part of what we took from the trek. They literally made light of their work. They were so attentive and helped us immeasurably with negotiating the tricky and too often dangerous trail. They chattered and laughed so much. Of course they are mountain people - lived their whole lives in a harsh terrain but even then they were remarkable. They were always going to get a good tip from us.

For 2 days we literally saw not another human being. Most of the time we were in bamboo forest and we were pushing our way through it. There was no flat respite. We we up or down - with a lot of steep downs. It was very humid and on the third day our descent we had heavy tropical rain and thunder and lightning around us.

It was very hard - often slippery too. It was one of those hikes where you had to concentrate on every step. I needed to remind myself where I was and what we were doing as we went on for hour after hour with only short breaks. Rob and I were drained but we kept going. There were no shortcuts anyway - and we later reflected not much chance of help - which we are so thankful we never actually needed.

The ladies were wonderful. It was amazing watching them prepare our lunches. (see photos below.) Our first night was in a shelter. The ladies lit a fire in the middle which burned all night to provide warmth and dry out our gear. They cooked lots of food  - stuff I would normally love but the trek effort and probably the altitude took our appetite away. What the ladies managed to eat was enormous. They also had a bottle of happy water - rice wine for the 5 of us to share and that went down very well. They insisted - their custom - we all 5 toasted every sip. "chi". They laughed and giggled. It was a privilege and quite wonderful to be there.

The next morning we set out early again. I am reflecting on personal doubt - have we bitten off too much ? -  this is a constant but I know how to bury it - to shake it off. Pride and reality are factors - have to keep going. Rob had the same attitude throughout too which is a huge credit to him as this was his first extended mountain trek. Despite the tiredness it was obvious Rob was getting so much from what he was achieving. That made it even more special given his medical history and my part in his treatment. He is tough as hell. Really proud of him.

They gave us gloves - they mentioned boulders ? The trail on the second day was even denser - more precarious. The gloves were to hold onto anything we could - mostly bamboo - to keep our balance particularly on the decents.

To cut a long story short - we make it to the top and civilization. We all hug. As usual and quite wonderfully I am deeply moved. Relief - sense of achievement - sense of place - happiness. Tears flow quitely. A feeling hard to beat - a drug - what it is probably all about. Subsequently people asked did I enjoy it. The answer is a bit like running a marathon. The main pleasure comes at the end- ha!

The top alas is shrouded in cloud - a shame from a photograph point of view - but no matter.  We later descend and stop at a summit base camp overnight for those going up the next day from the main trail.

A measure of what we have achieved becomes apparent. The Cat Cat route is seldom done. Our ladies our proud of us. Other guides give us little claps - broken English "tough men" they point us out to others. That evening was much more relaxed for everyone. Absolutely brilliant and special.

Next day it is almost entirely down but brutal on my knees but who cares. Rob is  buzzing. The rain is tropical hard. It is tropical warm.

We tip the ladies well. They are very happy and they really really deserve it. Their giggles are so infectious even though for 99% of the time we have no idea what they are laughing at. I am proud of them and the good life they are living.

Eventualtly back in our Sa Pa hotel we join the normal world again - ha! - we have fantastic creature comforts  - a shower - wi fi - beer and later non traditional fare - burger and chips. Brilliant - ha! Thank you to everyone and everything. Thank you for my family. So sorry there are wars. xxxx

Here are some mob photos posted here in chronological order.

#Hanoi - V1

It is early November. We will have arrived in Hanoi for the start of a 3 week visit - our first visit to Vietnam. We ? I am with my brother Rob. Mike the other "Three Tenner" couldn't be with us alas, as work committments didn't fall right on this occasion.

Over the next few weeks I will post a few blogs to record my thoughts and some of the things seen - obviously travel acts as a stimulus but I 100% acknowledge our trip is a relative whistle-stop and therefore claim no particular expertise regarding Vietnam. One of the main benefits of writing these blogs is simply to prompt my memory - ha!

I am tempted to start writing a Vietnam history in the context of the Vietnam War - what the Vietnamese refer to as the American War. The Vietnam War ended in 1975 when the communist North Vietnamese- the Viet Cong drove the Americans out of the south and took over Saigon to declare Vietnam a united communist country. Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh city in honour of their leader. This is the stuff of my childhood and teenage years. I grew up with the Vietnam War news bulletins. I cannot believe I am here now and Vietnam has come so far after the terrible war - the bombing - agent orange - the destruction. But I am. I shall park the war for now!

A quick bit about Vietnam. It is not a small country - it is a long country - over 1000 miles and thin - just over 300 miles at its widest and 30 miles at its narrowest. It is 1.4 times the size of the UK (bigger than the UK ). It has a population of nearly 100 million people. It has a massive coastline. It is only a 1000 miles or so north of the equator ! A regular question - when is the best time of year to go to Vietnam? A tricky one because of the geographic shape and coastline. Without going into the weather too much Vietnam has both a tropical and a temperate climate - and experiences the monsoon cycle. Heavy rain and humidity are big factors. Changeable. Hanoi for us warm - hot and humid and this is winter approaching.

One other thing to put right at the outset. Vietnam is not 3rd world. It is rich in natural resources and has made massive economic progress and is a successful country. It's economy size is move towards the world's top 30. What is incredible however is the low cost of living. For us westerners it is a cheap place to be and we are all millionaires.  1,000,000 Vnd is about £40. 5 beers might be £4. Dinner £2 to £5. 

Anyway Hanoi - Vietnam's capital city. North Vietnam. We are staying in the "old city". What a place ! It is not what you would call beautiful- no really significant architecture  - not surprising given its war torn history but it is so incredibly vibrant. There is so much energy. It is said there a 5 million mopeds in Hanoi!

One thing which is hard to get your head around is Vietnam is designated as a communist country. It a one party state - and the party is the communist party. However like China it has adopted a mixed economy with business and profit as the main driver. The overwhelming characteristic of Hanoi for me are people are busy - earning their living - doing things. Each street is populated by small business units - often each street selling the same thing. Carpet street, fish Sstreet - bird cage street.

What is great too are people are happy. As I said earlier I was brought up with news bulletins about the Viet Cong fighting a ferocious guerilla war. That is these people or at least their parents and grandparents! There is no austerity evident. Rapid open WiFi everywhere ( puts the UK to shame). Vietnam is not China. No military walking around - virtually no police evident. It is hard to believe this is the same people and this is a communist country. Language is a barrier. I would love to know what the average Vietnamese is thinking and how it all works. I suspect they are happy because they are making progress and as far as it goes free to live their life. Certainly they welcome tourists and touchwood it feels a safe place.

Like anywhere in Indochina - the far east  - us westerners are stunned by the contrasts - by the colour - by the wonderful food. I am totally in my element here from a food point of view. The street foòd is fantastic. Rob and and I just love being sat outside having a beer on a busy junction and just watching the world go by. So much  happening. So different. Really incredible.

Those 5 million motorcycles. Must be an underestimate - ha! Every pull away at a green light looks like a ride out. Not that there are many traffic lights. There are crossings but we have begun to understand crossings are not where traffic stops ha! The way it works at best is where traffic are on extra notice to dodge around you ! There is a system - a code - and 5 million motorbikes might be the solution to the urban transport solution. There are cars and commercial vehicles of course but in the Old City at least people get around on mopeds - sometimes with two or three people - often laden with goods. But they are not clapped out bikes - and they are not screeching - no boy racers. They just move around and get the job done and park anywhere. It works! Commonsense not Health and Safety. So refreshing. The UK is a nanny state! Well done Vietnam.

Here are a few mob pictures taken in Hanoi. 

The Red River

The Long Bien bridge over the Red River. It was constantly 

bombed by the American's but as a symbol of resistance the Vietnamese kept it open. In the end the Americans stopped bombing it when the Vietnamese said they would use American POW's to repair any damage.

We were walking around a lake park on Sunday morning. We think it was a special day for the Hanoi's. They wanted photos with us - ha !

#Chamonix

I am a bit behind with my posts. This one is almost entirely just one for the record - to post some photos.

They cover a short trip to Chamonix - Mont - Blanc - for short - Chamonix.

I have missed out on skiing. I know why. In the early years it was not accessible to me. When it was - winter sun was a big draw but the deciding factor was a concern I might have damaged my knees. I know several that have while skiing. A big price to pay but alas I know I have missed out on something that is often very special. My one time was years ago but I didn't have the time to become competent. Now it has passed me by.

So - consequently I am not that familiar with The Alps. Therefore to see Mont Blanc the highest mountain in Europe had appeal.

The nearest airport to Chamonix in France is Geneva in Switzerland. We hired a car. I think the journey took about an hour. Initially motorway and toll roads and then an easy steady climb up into the Chamonix valley. The journey between Switzerland and France was seemless and I say that as a rampant Brexit supporter. ( and so much for project fear ! )

We get to Chamonix in full on sun. People are walking around in T shirts. Our hotel balcony has a superb view of Mont Blanc. It is snow and ice covered to quite a way down despite the sun. Hotels are pretty cheap out of the ski seaon. What is not cheap is food and drink. 

Chamonix is regarded as a premier skiing base. High up in its valley it has historically received good snow fall and both valley sides have a range of ski runs. It is definitely beautiful and the resort is smart - all the high end retail names trading. I keep thinking we are in Switzerland because everything is so ordered and sensible and work  - but it is France - ha!

Our main activity is to take a ride on Europe's highest cable car that goes from the centre of Chamonix to the top of Aiguille du Midi at over 12000 ft. We spent a lovely hour or so at the top for a great view of Mont Blanc itself and other surrounding mountains. It was spectacular and that wonderful combination of snow and sun.

My overall conclusion though is Chamonix is not for me. It is "chic"! But more significantly Chamonix felt claustrophobic to me. The valley is narrow and the valley  steep on both sides. Great for skiing of course but I had a sense I wanted to break out.

It was an excellent weekend break however. I did think about putting the walk around The Mont Blanc Massiff - 105 miles - takes 7 to 10 days on the list. Maybe if I can find the time - ha!

On the way back to the airport we parked up in Geneva for a stroll along the lake shore. As expected it was smart and felt upmarket.

Here are some relevant extracts from Wikipaedia.

Bjîînix-Mont-Blanc (French pronunciation: [ʃamɔni mɔ̃ blɑ̃]; Arpitan: Chamôni-Mont-Blanc), more commonly known simply as Chamonix (Chamôni),^[a][b] is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the French Alps within the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in Southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics, held in 1924. In 2020, it had a population of 8,644.

It is situated just north of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe. Between peaks of the Aiguilles, Rouges and the notable Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix borders both Switzerland and Italy. It is one of the oldest ski resorts in France, popular with alpinists and mountain enthusiasts. Via the cable car lift to the Aiguille du Midi it is possible to access the off-piste (backcountry) ski run of the Vallée Blanche (White Valley).

Chamonix is a winter sports resort town that still attracts skiers ready to test themselves both on the pistes in the official area and against the challenges of the backcountry skiing.^[13] As the highest European mountain west of Russia,^[14] Mont Blanc attracts mountain climbers. The Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc has been held every August since 2003.

There is a cable car up to the 3,842 m (12,605 ft) Aiguille du Midi. Constructed in 1955, it was then the highest cable car in the world^[15] and remains the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world.^[16]

Chamonix is divided into 3 separate ski areas (Les Grands Montets, Brévent - Flégère, le domaine de Balme) which run along the valley from Le Tour down to Les Houches.^[17] In addition to the 1924 Winter Olympic Games, the town hosts a round of the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup and the Arlberg-Kandahar. It previously hosted the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships 1937 and the 1984 and 1988 Biathlon World Championships for women.

The 1930 Ice Hockey World Championships was mostly held at Chamonix. The town also hosted the European Curling Championships in 1991 and 1999.

Here are a few photos taken on my mob :-

Top of Aiguille du Midi 

Lake Geneva

xxxx