#Madeira

I am recently back from a short break. It is the first time I have been to the island of Madeira.

You might already know it. I didn't. I knew it had a reputation for flowers and was situated somewhere in the sun this side of the Atlantic but not much more. The reason it cropped up was covid - somewhere to at last get away to that was on the green list. Madeira is an autonomous Portuguese island and while mainland Portugal including the Canaries was on the amber list - Madeira was green. 

So where actually is it? Well - 250 miles north of the Canaries - and 320 miles west of Morocco. It is part of an archipelago and the biggest island. Madeira is about 35 miles long and 14 miles wide (so maybe a 1/3rd bigger than the Isle of Wight - and has a surprisingly big population - now 250000. It has a mountain ridge that extends along the centre of the Island which rises to 6109 ft at its highest point - over 1500 ft higher than Ben Nevis - the UK's highest mountain.

The geology is fascinating.

Madeira is at the top of a massive volcano that rises about 20000 feet from the Atlantic seabed. It is part of the massive undersea Tore Mountain Range. Most of the activity ended 700000 years ago and erosion has now shaped the landscape.  

While in the time available I did not see much of the landscape it is easy to get an idea of it. As you approach on the plane the view is predominantly black (volcanic) craggy mountains. The airport is on a narrow coastal strip. Immediately you see the terrain is extremely hilly - with most of the properties built on slopes - often severe ones. It is quite a sight. The road to Funchal from the airport runs through a number of  substantial tunnels - alpine style. The taxi driver said before they were built the journey would have taken 2 hours. It now takes 20 minutes.

Anyway in no particular order here are a few odds and ends that come to mind about Madeira :

• Madeira is not a brash place - it is not a party destination. Indeed it is popular with people retiring and looking for a quiet lifestyle.
• It is well maintained - clean and gentle. The south particularly has a mild maritime climate and plants thrive. the gardens and parks are a feature. We visited the Jardine Botanico - high above Funchal (by cable car). The gardens have international renown.
• Although the topography is much different Funchal reminded me of Singapore ie quiet, ordered - tidy - even manicured. 
• While the tourism trade is very well established there is only one natural beach - Praia Formosa - basalt rock and black volcanic sand. Apparently there are two others but they were created by sand imported from the Sahara.
• As Madeira is at the top of a 20000 ft mountain the islands sides are typically sheer - hence few beaches. The water gets deep very quickly and it has some of the highest sea cliffs in the world at 580m. Probably the reason it is a popular stop for the cruise ships.
• There is a distinct difference between the southern coast and the northern coast in terms of climate. If you want late season sun - head south. Temperatures obviously change as you move from sea level rapidly up to 6000ft. Allows for many different types of plants to grow in a short space.
• Although there is plenty of sea fish etc now available Madeiran waters are not good for fishing because of the great depth of water. Consequently much is imported from the Portuguese mainland. Similarly foodstuffs. As a result Madeira is not a giveaway price wise.
• Their main fish and their traditional dish is Scabbard fish - often served with bananas (that grow well). Scabbard fish are ugly brutes - jet black - big teeth - a type of eel. Not everyone's cup of tea based on looks but they eat well. 

Madeira's signature dish - Scabbard fish with banana

• Madeiran people seem typically short in stature. I suspect this is diet related. It is the case in China and India - the younger people are taller - because of improved diets. I think a lot of Madeiran's leave to work abroad. I sat next to a lady on the plane that has worked in London for 45 years - but maintains and island home and tries to return twice a year. 
• Property prices are increasing - many flats being built. Madeira did well dealing with covid - easy to control entry etc - and consequently it seems older people especially have seen the sense and merit of an island life - especially with the climate and the prettyness. Madeira feels really safe.
• But beware. Madeira as I have said is very steep almost everywhere except the limited coastal strip. A hard place to live if you rely on walking. Roads while well surfaced are narrow and windey. Precipitous edges. Bus services are good it seems.
• Madeira wine goes very well with Madeira cake. I was especially taken with Madeira wine - compares really well against sherry and port. It might become a xmas tipple. Poncha - the local  spirit made of sugar cane and fortified by honey is strong and sweet. Not for me. Ghastly stuff - like medicine.
• There is much left to explore on Madeira. It is famous for its Levada walks and hikes. Levadas are narrow canals or water courses that bring water down off the mountains. Many have paths set beside them and make up a network of walks that range from easy to challenging. 

As an option for late season sun Madeira offers a lot. We were especially lucky with the weather - late October and unbroken 26/27 degrees. Showers can be a feature however so probably not as safe a bet as the Canaries 250 miles south but I am going to go again. It is lovely place and only 3.30 hrs away.

Here are a few photos from my new mob camera 

Great for sunsets. 540m cliffs.

Funchal lovely parks

Funchal

Cable car up to the Botanic gardens above Funchal

Scabbard fish from the deep

#Metaverse

 A few years ago I read a prediction by someone who seemed to know what he is talking about - "that there will be more changes in the next 50 years than in the last 50 years."

As someone who has grown up in those last 50 years that seemed an extraordinary statement - given the enormous changes that have happened in my life time. Computers - mobile phones - DNA - micro technology - the internet - globalisation etc etc. Could there really be more things coming along that would have an even bigger impact on our lives?

Hands up here - I am not a geek - I am not into science fiction - but I am pretty sure the answer is yes. 

We are already seeing the emergence of space travel - we know a bit about AI - the use of artificial intelligence - intelligent machines. Robotics as daily experience. Use of drones. Cashless society. Nano technology. Genetic engineering. We are moving away from fossil fuels. 

But yesterday another massive glimpse - an insight prompted by the decision of  Mark Zuckerburg of Facebook to announce the Facebook group was changing its name to Meta - "to better represent or describe what they will be doing in the future."

That meant absolutely nothing to me - Meta? 

So I did some basic research - it is all about the "metaverse".

The metaverse is defined as :

a virtual-reality space in which users can interact with a computer-generated environment and other users

As I understand it is predicted as commonplace (and not that far away) that we will have access to devices - machines - or whatever - that will produce 3D images (in a virtual world) which we will be able to interact with and will form part of our actual world. I think what is being suggested is there will be a blurring of the edges between virtual and real. I haven't watched the movie - Matrix - but apparently it is an indication of where all this might be heading.

I think this means you might be able to go on holiday without actually leaving your own home - because virtual realities will allow the Taj Mahal to come to you. I think you will be able to dance with a life size Kylie or cook with Nigella in your own home or anywhere else!

Actually I have no idea what I am talking about except it is obvious we are all going to be hearing a lot more about the METAVERSE. Not sure I like it much either - ha!  

#CoasttoCoast C2C Sea to Sea - a Three Tenners ride

We three brothers enjoyed the cycling the Hebridean Way in July. Enthused we thought we could squeeze another one in before the weather turned. Same format - cycling - camping - low budget - ha! 

The route we chose was a well defined and popular one - the Sutrans C2C route, C2C - Sea to Sea! The idea is to cycle across England from the Irish Sea to the North Sea - albeit at one of its narrowest parts. The recommendation is west to east because of helpful prevailing winds. The start is either Whitehaven or Workington - the finish either Tynemouth or Sunderland. We chose Whitehaven to Tynemouth - 140 miles. We decided on 4 days cycling - some do it much quicker of course. The guide book recommends 5 days to allow for sightseeing. There are many ways to approach the route - the surface is good - but we have touring bikes - pretty heavily laden (although we have improved) because we are self sufficient. We each carry a tent - a cooking system - food - and of course a range of clothes to deal with whatever the unpredictable weather can throw.

A quick note on logistics - Mike drove with Rob from Exmouth. I drove direct from the IOW. A bit under 400 miles from the Island - so a fair hike for us southerners. Whitehaven if you do not know it is in Cumbria. Our plan was to leave the vehicles at the start and had arranged through Haven Cycles at Whitehaven transport to pick us up at the finish in Tynemouth and bring us back. The drive back takes 2 1/2 to 3 hours and cost us £60 each. It was the only practical solution and worth it.

We arranged to meet at St Bees 4 miles from Whitehaven. As far as I could find this was the nearest practical campsite. We arrived late afternoon - got the tents up etc - and then thought we would have a scout around - find the start at Whitehaven etc for an efficient start the next day. What immediately became apparent was the route to Whitehaven from St Bees was a very hilly 4 miles! We aren't the biggest fans of unnecessary hills so we decided rather than leave the vehicles at St Bees we would drive to Whitehaven for the start. That meant finding secure carparking. Again Haven Cycles provided the solution - it was an extra cost - but a good decision. 

Next morning - a little behind schedule (Rob always has something to repack - lol) we get to the official C2C start at Whitehaven harbour filled with nice Irish Sea water. The start was almost a disaster. The tradition - the done thing on this route - is to place your back wheel in the Irish Sea at the start. But the slipway - tidal affected of course - was incredibly slippery. Rob dropped his bike - and I nearly went over. Anyway we got the all important photo and we were off!

First day was a bit overcast but dry and still. Our plan was to cycle about 40 miles into the Lake District to get to Keswick and beyond. We eventually camped at Troutbeck near Scales. It was a top day. How can you not be uplifted by being in the Lake District. We climbed a fair bit - and got our head in the clouds (and wind) when we got over the formidable Winlatter Pass. After Keswick the cycling was lovely and by clever planning we came across the White Horse Inn about 2 miles before our campsite for the night!

Next day was to be another 40 miler - on to Penrith - gradually out of the Lake District and down to and across the Eden Valley. Our objective was Nenthead - North Pennines. Just great scenery. Quiet. Special. Hard to describe. One thing I love about these type of rides. You get in a bubble. You - the setting - the personal effort on the hills - the release going down. Your own thoughts. Your own plans. Your own dreams. Make of it what you will. Hard to beat. When the Three Tenners cycle we rarely form a peloton - ha! We do our own thing - cycle at different speeds - and meet up usually when the route is not clear. There was one especially long tough climb to the Hartside summit and eventually the long downhill to Alston. This a quote from the guide book " leaving the gentle Eden Valley you soon climb to the spectacular viewpoint of Hartside before beginning the traverse of the North Pennines - England's last wilderness. Much of it is designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty - the sombre wide open spaces present if anything a more powerful landscape than the Lakes themselves." It was sombre - it was grey - it was at times magnificent - like another world - and so quiet - so little development - just sheep.

We got down off Hartside and eventually met up at the lovely little town of Alston (that claims to be the highest market town in England). I went into a pub and ordered a hot chocolate while I waited. It had been draughty up there! On Alston the main street looks and feels like that cobbled street on the Hovis advert - but it is not the same place.

Eventually we head on towards Nenthead. We have booked a bunkhouse for the night - because we were up high and there were no designated camping areas. It turned out to be a good decision. It was not a nice evening outside. We were dry and showered and comfortable. We had the whole Haggs Head Bunkhouse to ourselves for £25 each. Just as well. My brothers snoring can be off the scale and this night it was a shocker. Eventually I had to move to another room and I am normally a heavy sleeper!

Next day was dank and still. We had just a few miles to Nenthead and just 32 in all to get to Consett. As we get to Nenthead I see a bike repairers. I put my head in the door to check out the route as there were options. The owner was smiling. He said the first part is a killer! Basically in a relatively short distance we had to get up to the highest point on the whole trek - Black Hill 1998 ft. It was steep. We get up and on to a beautiful wild open moor. On the moor there were ups and downs with another bigee up to Parkhead Station via Stanhope. It was a brute of a climb but I really enjoyed it. A great place to be but I am sure the warning signs were right. Beware it can be dangerous up here in bad conditions. 

As in life you usually get out what you put in. Thereafter it was a wonderful 10k descent on the Waskerley Way - a bridle way / cycling track on an old rail line. It was great - freewheeling a lot of the time. Beautiful quiet countryside. Hardly no one around. We have time in hand, the riding is easy and the final leg tomorrow would be even easier. 

We have booked a campsite a few miles out of Consett - a nice little site (we are the only ones on it) called Starlight Camping. A field (with great views) and a portacabin - well fitted out as a shower block etc. The owner Billy comes down for a chat. We sound him out for the nearest pub and shop. As suspected it was several miles away and up and down hills. We agree we have no choice but to cycle later. While in the shower I reflect on that. I ring Billy from my tent. I do a deal with him to pick us up at 4pm and drive us to the local pub. He agreed to pick us up at 6.30 and take us to the local fish and chip shop on the way back. He was very happy with £10 per person. So were we. The drive to the pub didn't take long but it would have been a brute of a ride especially topped up with beer. The Fleece Inn was quiet but it was a good place to be and the fish and chips turned out to be amazing! We are back at the campsite - picnic table - and fish and chips - and witnessed an amazing sky. (see photos below). A good nights sleep.

As the Tour de France - and the gentle ride into Paris - ours is to Newcastle and then to Tynemouth! I thought Consett would be industrial - a former steel town. But no the countryside is lovely - the people we met friendly and chatty. I think it was Rob who made the comment "Boris goes on about levelling up - its the south that needs levelling up with the north! " We were well impressed with the area.

Our route is down the Derwent Walk - along the River Derwent - idyllic woodland and pasture until we get to where the Derwent joins the mighty River Tyne. We have a choice south or north bank. We start off on the south but cross on the Tyne Bridge and head down through Newcastle on the Hadrian's cycleway the 10 miles all the way to Tynemouth. It was an easy enjoyable ride - with many landmarks.

We get to Tynemouth at about 2.30pm. What a suprise. A real buzzing tasteful holiday town - all up together and nice - traditional. We know the northerners call us soft southerners. The late September sun is out but a real cold wind coming off the North Sea. Those Geordie lasses don't care. Not a sign of a coat or a jacket!

It was a bit of an effort to dip our front wheels in the North Sea (as custom requires to complete the sea to sea) but we managed it at the local sailing club. A good moment - we have done well.

Haven Cycles pick us up for the 2 1/2 road trip back to Whitehaven via Carlisle.

It was a great thing for us to do. I will admit I get a great deal of satisfaction out of the planning and carrying out the plan. I love to reflect on what we have done. Completing the journey is probably the most important thing. Doing it with my brothers - each with strong personalities but so different is a brilliant dynamic. (we sometimes wonder what our late parents would think - and know that they would be proud and happy to see us do these things together).Cheers bruvs - to the next time. 

Here are a few photos from my mob camera : 

The start in the Irish Sea at Whitehaven Cumbria

First glimpse of the Lake District

Camping the first night nr Scales (Troutbeck)

My trusted Dawes Super Galaxy. Old but a great bike. Looks overloaded but the weight is not too bad. I prefer to make the effort to carry more gear to be comfortable. A larger tent for instance.

An old mine - now a visitors centre.

Our little campsite nr Consett

The Three Tenners at The Fleece Inn. I can't keep up with my bruvs on the beer lol!

Sun going down while eating our fish & chips

River Derwent

River Tyne

We cross the Tyne into Newcastle

Tynemouth and the N Sea finish ahead.

Long Beach Tynemouth the official finish of the C2C

We put our front wheels in the North Sea for the full finish!

#IsleofWightFestival2021 and 2022!

It happened! Despite the covid doom and gloom - and the naysayers the IOW Festival has just completed. It is a normally a June event but covid pressures meant June was too early to go for and the September date turned out to be well judged by John Giddings and his team.

The event was billed as a sell out - 50000 tickets. To be honest I thought this might have been hyped but as it turned out if it wasn't the full 50k it wasn't far off. In the weeks leading up to the festival there was a fair bit of negativity towards staging the event. To be honest there is always some - even without covid ie disruption noise etc. With covid there was speculation case numbers would mushroom and the only Island hospital would be overwhelmed. For ourselves we did not want to be irresponsible but like thousands of others rationalised we could and should get on with it (life) now vaccinations had happened. It was also an outdoor event and unless you wanted to be down at the front it would be possible to avoid very close contact.

The other factor was the weather prospects - it was September rather than the normal June. In the week leading up the forecasts were poor and on the Monday before there was an almighty deluge - it was going to be a muddy festival. As it turned out there was no mud, no further rain and the poor forecasts did not materialise. It turned out largely sunny - on the Saturday - exceptionally so.

Of the festival - I pretty much go every year. Living on the Island makes it a doddle to attend - and great value in my opinion. Historically the IOW Festival has had tremendous cache based on its deep rooted festival origins and ranked only below Glasto perhaps in status. However in my opinion while Glasto remains stand alone the IOW Festival has lost some of its kudos and drawing power. There are now so many festivals and the IOW has probably become just one of many. Consequently I do not think the IOW is somewhere a band would necessary have on their bucket list as it definitely used to be and the commercial reality is ticket sales cannot be taken for granted either.

In response John Giddings has placed the festival line ups bang in the safe middle ground. There is something for everyone but probably really suits no one. The scale and range at Glasto makes it much more eclectic and edgy. IOW does not have that feel anymore in my opinion.

But as I have written before I am not going to knock the IOW Festival. It is what it is. It is tremendous value and you can guarantee you will have fun if you go with the right attitude. It still draws big acts and it is basically well run (once you get over the strictly enforced commercial rules to prevent you taking food and drink onto the site unless you are camping. Even then you are not permitted to bring anything into the main arena. This year it was £6 a pint). As I have said we are lucky to have it on the Island and I am a committed supporter.

Here was the festival line up :

For us we ruled out the Big Top this year for covid reasons. That left the main stage. Of course what you like is what you like but it was wonderful to enter the site and hear the special big stage sound. 

Friday was a mixed bag night but so uplifting to walk into the big arena - with everything there as usual. Despite the negativities and covid pessimisms it was happening and it felt "normal" which is what we needed !!

James are a big time festival band and they went down well. I think the problem for them as is so often the case - they wanted to play their newer stuff but the mainstream audience want to hear their older stuff like Sitdown.

Tom Jones was irrepressible. He loves it - at around age 80 he must. He opened with Pussy Cat Pussy Cat I love you and then Not Unusual! He couldn't fail and he didn't. I am glad I was there.

It was a big step to Liam Gallagher after Tom Jones - too much for some.

Saturday was a superb weather day. Great to be there in the sun - the odd drink and the big festival sound and vibe. 

A grumble from me. There is always one or two Simon Cowell type acts on the festival line ups. Definitely some people want to see them. They invariably look good - some in the crowd know their back story. They have had a few 'hits'. But that is it. Invariably the stage is too big for them in my view. Their catalogue too small. They do not have the pedigree. They have not served their time. Keep em off the big stage please until they are ready if they ever will be !!!

And one little amusing observation. Maybe years ago it was not cool to take a chair to the festival. It may still not be "cool" but it is what more and more people do now. Maybe is reflects the age profile - middle England. One thing it has done is effect moving around. Chairs are placed to form barriers - to mark out territory. Such is life - but it is nice to sit down now and again lol. xx

Roachford was smooth - Lightening Seeds went down well. James Arthur for me was one of the lightweight Cowell productions and we missed Sam Fender. I am not sure what happened for him but there was not much applause at the end. All Saints I suppose were fun but a poor mans Spice Girls. I have seen Snow Patrol before. They are a big festival band with a tremendous range. They mixed it up and were what they festival needed. Actually they were joint headliners with David Guetta. I expected Snow Patrol to be last on but they preceded the French DJ. It was the right decision. When Snow Patrol finished much of the main arena audience changed. In poured the youngsters and they filled up the front. Amazing volume and light show from Guetta. Some of it was real hardcore it seemed to me. Prodigy on drugs lol! I wanted to see David Guetta. It had been a long day. He became too much for us. However his set was so loud and bright you were still in it long after you had walked out the festival gate. 

Sunday was another good weather day. Highlight in many ways for me on was Seasick Steve. I had seen him before at the IOW. He reminded it was 10 years ago! A class act. Then it was a strong line up - a bit of a walk down the past especially with Supergrass and then Duran Duran. The Script were quality - could have been the headliners. Their show went down well. As for Duran Duran - well they would be easy to knock in some ways. There was a comment in the local paper a week before when there was speculation as to whether the festival should go ahead. Someone wrote "the festival has to go ahead now - Simon le bon is almost defrosted !". They were a long way from my band of choice - but they were great - a tremendous big budget show which I am glad to have seen. It was really enjoyable and like most old rockers he knew how to engage with the audience. Great stuff.

The festival had opened on the Thursday with the fantastic Red Arrows. Few things can make everyone stop and stare in awe. The Red Arrows can. Sends a tingle through you. It finished with fireworks as we left the stadium. Over for another year - it will take a day or two to recover. Thank you IOW Festival. It was great xxx

PS the 2022 line up has been announced already. It has gone down well. Muse and Kasabian will be a big pull and there is Nial Rogers for bop around fun. I have secured the obligatory early bird ticket - something to get in the diary to really look forward to. 

 

#ConservativeParty a short letter of protest to my local Tory MP.

 Dear Mr Seeley

I regret to advise you I have cancelled my Conservative Party membership and will now donate to the Reform UK Party.

My reasons. The Tory party has become Labour light under Boris. I believe we should live within our means and the way to build a healthy sustainable economy is through low taxation (low taxation is the engine). I am sickened by the proposed increase in Nat Ins. to apparently fund social care properly. The working people of this country already pay too much tax and the money is already there to fund social  care and the NHS. The problem is it is being squandered by Boris's nanny state policies. It is also ridiculous we are housing thousands of Afghans and pandering to illegal channel economic migrants when we cannot look after our own. Charity for the genuinely needy should begin at home. Feel badly let down by the Tories and have withdrawn my support.

PS I am also in strong disagreement with Tory planning changes - but at least you and I agree about that as far as the Island is concerned at least.

#Inconsideratecyclist how not to ride a bike

The other day I was cycling along Seaview duver towards Ryde around the middle of the day. The duver road runs behind the beach from the Seaview end to the Boathouse pub - maybe 3/4 mile max. It is a narrow road but passable for two cars most of the way - but there is a chicane about half distance and carparking (this time of the year especially) which makes the road narrower and hard to pass. There is also a 20 mile speed limit on the Seaview end half.

Anyway I get to the chicane just before the bottom of  Oakhill Road and I witness a shouting match between a driver of a large white van and a guy on a mountain bike. The gist of it was the cyclist should ride single file not 2 abreast as it was stopping the van driver getting by. The male cyclist was cycling with a female cyclist - she was on the inside. I guess they were about 30 ish, had helmets and the Muddy Fox type clothes that mountain bikers use off road. They were not occasional cyclists in my view.  

In the few seconds this ensued it was obvious there was a lot of bad feeling. The cyclists set off with the van behind going in the Seaview direction, The male cyclist deliberately cycled slowly in the middle of the road stopping the van passing. The van driver is revving his engine inches from the back wheel of the cyclist. I stand and watch to see what happens (it is predictable and inevitable I think to myself!) They get a 100 yards or so down the road and there is a big commotion and shouting. The male cyclist is shouting "he hit me". The bike is on the floor - the cyclist stood on the grass. More shouting and the van driver drives off perhaps after a minute.

My take as a cyclist and also as a car driver.

• The male cyclist was being ignorant and provocative and not cycling in accordance with the Highway Code.
• Obviously cyclists should not unduly hold up traffic whenever they can avoid it and certainly riding 2 abreast will almost always cause a problem on normal roads.
• The van driver was clearly working and wanted to get on with his day and the male cyclists in the end was wilfully trying to stop him.
• Maybe at some earlier point the van driver had shown impatience - maybe sounded his horn - I don't know - but the upshot was the cyclist was acting unreasonably.
• Clearly the van driver should not have hit the bike. I assume it was a nudge from behind and it was likely deliberate. In this respect the driver was at fault and has likely committed an offence and I am not condoning it as such.
• Many might feel the cyclists got what he deserved.
• Many might feel the cyclists behaviour is the sort of thing that gets cyclists a bad name.
• Some might feel it is what gets white van man a bad name.
• As far as the 2 individuals involved are concerned it is highly likely their views are now indelibly polarised !
• Fortunately no one was seriously hurt and something so petty and silly didn't really get out of hand (which it easily could have done).
• I hope the young cyclist is now chastened and has learned a life lesson.
• Similarly I hope the van driver reflects that he took a silly and irresponsible risk by nudging the bike rider off.

Late last year my brother Mike and I cycled from John o' Groats to Lands End. Over 1100 miles. It was obvious the best way was to work with motorists. We never rode 2 abreast - we always allowed vehicles to pass asap. Consequently we received plenty of friendly peeps - we weren't stressed - and neither were the drivers. It was a win win and much safer and enjoyable. It is just common-sense and good manners. The inconsiderate cyclist needs a rethink! If he continues to think he has the right to take up as much of the road as a car or van he is going to have a miserable and possibly short cycling life.