#Bangkok 1st Day Thailand PT6

Wat Arun under scaffold

I arrived at my hostel mid evening by Tuk Tuk from the station. No problem. Just a few words about where I stayed. Khaosan Immjai is owned and run by a very earnest, helpful and hardworking husband and wife team. It was an excellent place to stay and gets 10's from me.
As often is usual when you arrive somewhere new - particularly at night and after a long journey - I thought Bangkok looked a bit grim. Next morning all that negativity dissipates as you get your bearings. Bangkok is not grim. Far from it.

Effectively I had only left myself two full days in Bangkok. I was going to be a diligent and hardworking tourist in the time available and see as much as I could. I immediately booked 2 tours through the hostel. The first a 3 hour night time bike ride and the second a half day visit to the floating market - for an early start on the second day.

I had sketched out the first day through previous research. My plan was to visit The Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun and Khaosan Road. Armed with a map, a plan a camera and good walking shoes I set off for what was to become a mega full and eventful day. Actually a really memorable day in the fantastically exotic city of Bangkok. (remember The King and I - the King of Siam - Siam the old name for Thailand. Who can forget Yul Brynner!)

In October King Bhumibol Adulyadej passed away. He was crowned King in 1946 and consequently had been the longest serving living head of state. ( that record now falls to our own Queen ). He was much loved in the majority and currently Thailand is only a month into a year of official mourning. There are signs of mourning everywhere - particularly miles and miles of black and white material draped along the frontage of buildings. A huge effort. There were some concerns regarding security initially but travel advice was still come, but be particularly respectful and dress appropriately - dark rather than light colours. To be honest while I was of course fully aware the country was in official mourning and was appropriately dressed I had not fully grasped what it actually meant in reality.

Anyway I head off for Khaosan Road because geographically it was nearest. There had been a gap in my prep. All the guide books list Khaosan Road as a must see - but I hadn't taken on board why. When I entered quite a modest road my first thought this isn't much and then it dawns on me why. This is the heart of the nightlife. I am at least 12 hours early.
It was like going into a night club with the lights on. Not too good.

I move on - next The Grand Palace - the late King's residence. I subsequently discover the total area covers 150 acres. This is where I get challenged. There are people everywhere and I follow the crowd. They are almost all dressed in black - right across the ages including children - mainly Thai - but a smattering of tourists too - to reassure me. I ask is this the King's Palace and am told yes. I have to go through a security gate - passport - body search. The Thai police were great - relaxed - smiling friendly. In fact one of the police women said to me relax - it is only a security check and nothing to worry about - but it feels odd like I shouldn't be there. I asked her if my clothes were OK - actually I was all in black and I had taken my cap off. She said your clothes are perfect. I move in - but move into what? No sign of a Palace!

It turns out I am told that up to 250000 people are arriving each day to pay their respects to the late king. I have entered an enormous tented village. On the perimeter are stands being operated by Thai major companies, foundations and charities it seems. They are there out of respect and everything is free. Free food - in as much as it would be wrong to profit from the King's passing. It takes me a while to figure it out. In the central area are rows and rows of seats while the thousands wait for their turn to go to the palace. I blunder across the queues. This is no place for a western tourist to be although no one made me feel uncomfortable as such. The Thais are lovely quiet respectful people and very demure.

Eventually I find a way out and am life saved by a young woman from the Thai Tourist Board. I must have looked confused. I have to go through security again for the Grand Palace and this will give me access to the two Wats I plan to see. I proceed down a " Mall" for 800 metres with the huge white walls of the palace before me. It is busy, Police and Army are polite and helpful but all the same this is a big event.

I decide I am going to settle for seeing The Grand Palace from the outside. I am adjacent to Wat Pho so decide it is better to go to Wat Arun which I know is across Bangkok's river the Chao Phraya which is also nearby. But waterfronts are valuable - building screens the river. Bangkok strides both sides of this river and it is a major thoroughfare. First you have to get to it. There are many piers on the map that provide access for the ferry services. Eventually I find the one I am looking for hidden behind all manner of bustling stores. Ticket 8BHT about 20p. What a scene. Like Hong Kong Harbour or maybe the Bosphorus. Boats and ships everywhere. No apparent speed limits. The longtails with massive lorry engines as outboards and scaffold poles as prop shafts create enormous bow waves to jostle and disturb. The view is fantastic. This is a happening place.

Wat Arun is there towering and impressive on the opposite river bank it's huge stupa rising over 250 feet and decorated in coloured porcelain pieces. It is under refurbishment. I spend some time in the quiet gardens but are drawn to the river. I do a deal for an hours ride in a longtail. The cruise was through the canal network which involves lock gates. It was cooler, relaxing and fun as the shoreline sped by. So many sights to see!

Back on land I negotiate another ferry. Am I going to Wat Pho - another temple? I decide on something to eat first. You are surrounded by street food. I get to Wat Pho. I decide to go for it - not with overwhelming enthusiasm - bike ride later in mind. But all that changed immediately. Wat Pho is an outstanding spectacle. I am not going to try and describe it but it is exceptional. The Buddhas and stupas enormous -the scale and the amount of burnished gold colossal. You need to see it for yourself - I can't do it justice.

Here are some mob photos taken through the day. It is impossible to capture scale.